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Texture a ceiling techniques


How to Texture a Ceiling with 4 Techniques

Photo: Zillow Digs home in Sterling, VA

It all too easy to slap a coat of white paint on your ceiling and consider it done. But to really pull a room together, it ought to be stylishly topped off—and putting a textured effect on the ceiling is a great way to add impact to your décor. Another plus? Textured ceilings perfectly camouflage imperfections like cracks or evidence of water damage.

There are a variety of techniques you can employ to create your texture of choice (way beyond the “popcorn” look popular in the 1970s). All it takes is a mixture of paint and drywall mud—and a little ingenuity. Ahead, a simple step-by-step guide for how to texture your ceiling, your way, without sending your budget through the roof.

Tools & Materials

Photo: fotosearch. com

STEP 1: Cover up anything you don’t want drywall mud to splatter or drip on.

Since you’ll be working against gravity, you’ll want to protect your furniture, floors, and fixtures from splatters. Empty the room as much as possible, which will also give you space to move around. Cover remaining pieces of furniture and the entire floor with drop cloths. Next, take off any faceplates, vent covers, ceiling fans, and/or light fixtures. Finally, apply painter’s tape around the edges of the ceiling, right where it meets the wall, being careful to keep it stick-straight all the way across.

STEP 2: Prime before you texture the ceiling.

You might think that because textured paint is part drywall mud it will adhere to any surface, but for a quality job, you still want to prime first. This step will make application easier and give lasting results.

Choose a paint primer close to the color you’ll be using to texture your ceiling—a dark primer for dark paint and a light primer for light paint. Cover the entire surface in a thin, consistent layer and let dry fully (consult the can’s drying time guidelines) before moving on.

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STEP 3: Start with pre-mixed textured paint, or combine paint with drywall mud.

Prep your product. If you’re looking for a subtle texture, you’ll get good results with pre-mixed textured paint. But if you’re aiming for more depth or special effects, mix your own by combining paint with drywall mud. The standard rule of thumb is one part drywall mud to 10 parts paint. Pour paint into a bucket, add drywall mud, and blend, aiming for the consistency of pancake or biscuit batter. Depending on the look you’re going for, you might want a somewhat thicker consistency. Do a small batch first to practice getting it just right.

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STEP 4: Apply texture to the ceiling with one of four techniques.

It’s always wise to start in the least noticeable part of the ceiling when applying the texture—perhaps the darkest corner of the room, or the edge of the ceiling closest to the door. Position your ladder there and make sure you can work from a reasonable angle without arching backward. The exact technique (and subsequent tools you’ll need) depends on your desired effect.

Whichever technique you choose, the end result will lend extra punch to your space’s style. The array of colors and effects is endless, so have fun and aim for a look that captures the personality of the room and those who live in it.

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How to Texture a Ceiling: Apply Knockdown (DIY)

Updated: Jan. 07, 2019

Spray ceiling texture to add visual interest and hide imperfections. Keep reading to learn how to texture a ceiling and walls.

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Family Handyman

Use this simple technique to add character to walls and ceilings, and to help blend the old with the new while remodeling. Textures give smooth, flat walls and ceilings a new dimension that enhances a room. This is a great project for problem walls as the texture hides minor imperfections.

By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine

Time
A full day
Complexity
Beginner
Cost
$51–100

Choosing your materials

Close-up: sprayer and hopper

The crucial components of a spray gun.

Textures add an entirely new dimension to flat, smooth walls. Instead of a blank slate, you’ll have a surface that will attract attention, add visual interest and warm the room with an earthy, organic feel. This technique also helps hide minor imperfections, making it a great way to meld remodeled walls with existing ones—no small bonus to those of us still perfecting our drywall-taping skills!

Applying a knockdown texture is an easy, low-cost, low-tech project that can dramatically change a room’s appearance and simplify wall repairs. The name comes from one of the final steps in the project when you use a wide knife to knock down and flatten the peaks of the texture applied to the walls. This step gives the texture its stucco-like appearance. To texture the walls and ceiling of an average room, the rental sprayer, the joint compound and knockdown knife will set you back only about $70 to $80, and you’ll be finished in one day. These are the three components you’ll use:

Joint compound
To make this project as easy as possible, use premixed all-purpose joint compound. These buckets contain about 60 lbs. of “mud” and are available at most home centers for $9 to $10 each. Don’t use the lightweight premixed compounds—you’ll be paying for a lot of air and the mix won’t be as “sticky” as the all-purpose. It generally takes 1-1/2 to two full buckets of mud to texture the walls and ceiling of an average size (12 x 12-ft.) room.

Knockdown knives
Traditionally, knockdown textures were done with flat trowels or wide steel taping knives. However, the trowel technique is hard to master. A much better choice is to use one of the flexible Lexan knockdown knives now available at drywall supply stores (see Photo 5). These knives are 18 to 24 in. wide and cost $15 to $18.

Acoustical sprayer and gun.
You’ll need to rent an acoustical spray gun, hopper and compressor from a rental center or paint store for this project. Although home compressors work fine for the initial orange peel coat, they won’t produce the volume of air you need for the heavier topcoat.

Expect to pay $25 to $30 for a one-day rental. While you’re still at the rental store, be sure to put the machine through a dry run to be certain it works. Also, remove the hopper from the gun and make sure the inside of the gun is clean. Look for a trigger adjustment on the gun It allows you to control the fluid flow. The recipes in this article will give you the just-right mixes for your project.

Tips:

File any sharp edges off the blade mixer. Sharp edges will scrape little plastic curlicues off the side of the bucket, bits that can clog the gun or wind up on the wall.

You will get mud in places you didn’t want it. Don’t worry! It cleans up easily with a wet sponge.

CAUTION!

If you have ceiling texture applied before 1980, it may contain asbestos. Before you remove any ceiling texture, contact your state’s department of environmental protection, department of health, or a regional asbestos coordinator for information on asbestos testing and removal. For a list of regional contacts, click here. For general information on asbestos, click here.

Apply the texture

Photo 1: Mask off everything you don’t want textured

Mask your windows and doors with plastic sheeting. Then cover remaining trim, outlets and light fixture bases (remove glass covers) with masking tape. Cover your floors with a heavy canvas or multiple layers of those bed sheets you haven’t had the heart to get rid of. Don’t use plastic sheeting on the floor or your work area will become a skating rink.

Photo 2: Add water to the joint compound and mix it

Thin the joint compound, or “mud,” with water. Use a blade mixer mounted to a variable-speed 1/2-in. drill (most mixers are too large for 3/8-in. drills). You can also mix the mud by hand with a 5-gal. paint stirring stick (available free at paint stores). Scoop half of a full bucket of unthinned mud into an empty 5-gal. bucket and add the correct amount of water to both buckets. Hug the bucket firmly with your feet and stir. After the initial stirring, scrape the sides and bottom with a stick or your hand and stir again. The second stirring helps remove thicker clumps that can clog the spray gun.

Photo 3: Spray on the base coat

Spray an orange peel base coat on the walls and ceilings. This step will help blend areas where new walls meet old, allow consistent drying for the topcoat, and act as a background for the final texture. Hold the gun about 30 to 36 in. from the surface. Starting in a corner, spray the ceiling first, working in grids sized according to what you can comfortably reach from a stationary position. On the walls, work from side to side and from top to bottom. Let the orange peel coat dry (three to eight hours).

Photo 4: Apply the top coat

Apply the topping coat using the same techniques you used to spray on the base coat but with different gun settings and mud consistency. If possible, practice in the closet or on a spare piece of drywall before moving to the main area. Hold the gun a bit farther from the surface, up to 48 in. The splats should be 1/2 in. to 1-1/2 in. in diameter. Finish spraying the entire room before going to the “knockdown” step. After you apply the first coat, spray on a quick second coat to help even out slight differences.

Photo 5: Knock down the top coat

Knock down the topping coat with an 18- or 24-in. Plexiglas knife and light pressure after the mud has set up for 10 to 15 minutes. Start in the closet until you get the feel of the knife and the effect you want. Knock it down in the same order you applied it. On the ceiling, knock down in a direction across the joists or framing. This helps compensate for unevenness of the ceiling. On the walls, start at the top and bring the knife two-thirds of the way down, then start at the bottom and bring the knife up to finish off the knockdown.

Photos 1 to 5 show how to apply the knockdown texture.

Tip:

Don’t let the hopper run dry. Keeping at least 4 in. of mix in the hopper helps maintain a consistent flow.

Tip:

Always make sure you start with a clean edge on the knockdown knife for each stroke. Keep a damp sponge and a bucket of water handy for this task.

Dealing with textured ceilings

Scrape a textured ceiling with a drywall knife

Round the corners on a drywall knife and use it to scrape the texture off acoustical or popcorn ceilings.

If you have acoustical or popcorn ceiling texture, remove it by spraying it with water, letting it soak in for a minute, and then carefully scraping it off with a drywall knife. Wear goggles and a cap. To minimize accidental gouging of the drywall, round off the corners of the knife with metal snips and remove burrs with a smooth-face file. If your ceiling texture has been painted, you won’t be able to scrape it clean. You may need to skim-coat the surface.

Painting a textured surface

Paint a textured surface the way you would new drywall. Let the “mud” dry completely. As it dries, it will release tremendous amounts of moisture. You’ll feel as if you’re standing in an Iowa cornfield in July. If it’s warm enough outside, cut through the masking on your windows and open them, but leave the masking tape in place until the surface dries. If you have some box fans, use them to help speed the drying.

After the walls and ceiling dry, check the surface for any spots you missed knocking down or any ridges you raised with the corner of the knife. With 120-grit sandpaper and a sanding block, sand these high spots down. Begin painting with a high-quality primer applied with a 3/8-in. nap paint roller. On the first coat, avoid going over surfaces before they’re completely dry. The mud is water soluble and painting too soon can cause you to peel up a thin layer of mud with the paint.

For the final paint coat, use a high quality latex paint and a 3/8-in. nap roller. An “eggshell” or “satin” finish emphasizes the depth of the texture.

Other Knockdown Textures

If you want to texture just a small area or a single wall or don’t want to mess with a sprayer, you have an endless supply of options. One of the simplest and most attractive is done with a plastic loop roller or ceiling texture roller, which fits on an ordinary paint roller. To do this texture, use the same methods as described in this article except skip the spraying steps and roll on a single coat of mud. You can also apply a knockdown texture using texture paints.

Recipes for Textures

Recipe for orange peel coat or orange peel ceiling texture:

Recipe for topping coat:

Recipe for rolled-on texture:

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.

Mixing paddle, acoustical sprayer and gun (rental), Lexan knockdown knife.

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list.

Originally Published: January 07, 2019

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Wall texturing

Texturing is an easy way to give walls more relief than regular matt paint finishes. A glaze is used that forms a slightly translucent texture. Texturing is an easy process, but requires patience. When brushing a large surface, any missing area will show up and ruin the finish. Before applying the glaze, it is better to cover the surface with a layer of light emulsion paint.

It will create a beautiful shading background texture. Walls can be painted in one or two colors. Texturing produces random patterns that bring life to a wall or highlight the edges or corners of a room with a tint that is slightly different from the color of the central part of the walls.
The work is best done by two people, so that at one time you can process a strip from floor to ceiling about half a meter wide.
  1. Apply glaze evenly on the wall surface. You can leave marks from the brush that go in arbitrary directions, or by covering the entire area with light strokes, "shift" the glaze in a vertical direction so that all the marks look in one direction.
  2. With a large texturizing brush (brush), we process the surface covered with glaze, while pressing only the tips of the bristles into the wet paint. Continue to the next section: slightly change the position of the brush so that the prints are arranged randomly.
  3. After making a few prints, remove the glaze accumulated on the bristles with a rag. If this is not done, the prints will be smeared, this will ruin the finish.
  4. If you are using two colors, apply the second color when you finish texturing the first.
  5. The texturing of the second color scheme is also performed. If using one brush, wash it thoroughly before working on the second color so that the first does not get on the glaze of the second color. Otherwise, it will ruin the finish.
  6. The area that separates the two colors is mixed with a texturizing brush. The shade that will be obtained at the junction of two colors depends on the amount of glaze applied to the wall and the intensity of the white primer layer that shows through after applying the glaze.
  7. We finish the corners with a small texturizing brush, which is specially designed for this. It allows you to easily process joints. When finished texturing, the glaze should dry completely. Then we apply two layers of varnish or a protective layer of transparent glaze.

Tools: paint brush, texture brushes, cloth
Materials: Acrylic glaze, stains, varnish or clear glaze
  • Helpful Hints: When texturing, cover no more than 1 square meter of glaze with glaze, otherwise the glaze will dry before you apply the texture.
  • Gloss emulsion paint can be used as a ground coat, the glaze dries more slowly on it than on matte.
  • To increase the saturation of color and relief of the texture, you can use several layers of glaze. Applying a dark shade over a light one enhances the three-dimensional effect of the finish.

wall texturing

Texturing is an easy way to give walls more relief than regular matt paint finishes. As with most decorative effects, glaze is used here to create a slightly translucent texture.

This process is simple, but requires patience when brushing large surfaces: any missed area will be noticeable and ruin the entire finish. Before applying the glaze, it is better to cover the surface with a layer of light emulsion paint, which creates a beautiful background that shades the texture.

Wall surface finishing with cloth or rags is a common decorative technique. There are two main methods of graining - wet and dry. When wet graining, the glaze is applied to the wall not with a brush, but with a cloth. When dry, the glaze is applied with a brush, and then fabric prints are left on its surface. The third method - knurling - consists in rolling the fabric over the surface of the glaze in one direction. Patience is required to achieve a uniform finish by texturing. Corners require special attention; for finishing joints it is better to use small brushes.

Walls can be painted in one or two colors. Texturing also allows you to create random patterns and bring a wall to life, or highlight the edges or corners of a room with a slightly different hue from the color of the central part of the walls.

It is best to work with two people so that in one step you can process a strip from floor to ceiling about half a meter wide.

1. Spread the glaze evenly over the wall surface. You can leave brush marks going in arbitrary directions, or, having covered the entire area, you can “move” the glaze in a vertical direction with light strokes so that all marks look in one direction.
2. Use a large texturizing brush to brush over the glazed surface, pressing only the tips of the bristles into the wet paint. Sequentially move on to the next section, slightly changing the position of the brush so that the prints are arranged randomly.
3. After making a few prints, use a rag to remove any accumulated glaze from the bristles. If this is not done, the prints will smudge and ruin the finish.
4. If two colors are used, apply the second color once you have finished texturing the first. Leave a small gap between areas of different colors, in which the primer will show through.
5. Texturize the second color in the same way. If you use one brush for texturing, wash the brush well before working on the second color, otherwise the first will get on the glaze of a different color and ruin the finish.
6. In the area separating the two colors, blend them with the texture brush. The shade obtained at the junction of two colors depends on the amount of glaze applied to the wall and the intensity of the white primer layer that shows through after applying the glaze.

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