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Sugar snap peas container garden


Growing Sugar Snap Peas in Containers

Published: / Modified: by Lizzie Streit, MS, RDN / This post may contain affiliate links / 8 Comments

Wondering how to grow peas in pots? Here are my tips on growing sugar snap peas in containers.

This post may contain affiliate links. For more information, see my affiliate disclosure.

Before we moved into our house last year, I grew vegetables in containers on the balcony of our apartment. Based on my few years of experimentation there, I learned that as long as they get sufficient water, sun, and fertilizer, vegetables can really grow anywhere…not just in big backyards!

Even though I now have a yard with raised veggie beds, I still grow some things in pots. This year, I had a lot of seeds left after sowing peas in one of my beds, so I experimented with growing sugar snap peas in containers. (See my Vegetable Garden Diary, Volume 1 for more details on my garden design. )

The peas that grew in my pot were just as good, and almost as fruitful, as the ones in the veggie bed. So, I thought I’d share my tips for those of you who have container gardens or want to supplement your backyard veggie beds with a few pots!

What You’ll Need

Instructions for Growing Sugar Snap Peas in Containers

  1. Prepare the pot with soil and fertilizer. Be sure to refer to the package instructions to determine the amount of fertilizer to use. In my experience, sugar snap peas do not need a lot of fertilizer. I only added it once at the time of sowing. Place the pot on its drainage container and get ready to sow the seeds!
  2. Plant the peas in a circle around the edges of the container. I planted them about 1 inch from the edges of my pot and 1.5 to 2 inches from each other and made a complete circle. Plant the seeds about 1-inch deep then cover gently with soil. I put two seeds in each hole.
  3. Set up the support. Place the upside down tomato cage on top of the pot or set up your pea trellis so that the peas can grow up it.
  4. Water generously with a watering can or hose.

Watering, Harvesting, and Storing

When growing sugar snap peas in containers, it’s very important to be consistent and generous with your watering. I got a ton of peas out of my container plant, but I did notice that some of the bottom leaves turned yellow. I believe this was from a lack of water.

The pea plants in the veggie beds did not get this discoloration, and they produced more peas in the end. So, make sure the soil in your pot is pretty much always moist. You will likely have to water container peas more than those you grow in a bed or directly in the ground.

The peas started to sprout in about 10 to 14 days. They took about two months, from the end of April to the end of June, to start producing fully grown sugar snap peas. Depending on where you live, your timeline for growing sugar snap peas in containers may be shorter or longer than mine.

Sugar snap peas are ready to harvest when the peas are the same width as the pod. You don’t want to wait until the peas are bulging out of the pod, and you also don’t want to pick them too soon (when they look more like snow peas instead). To harvest sugar snap peas, pinch behind the “tassle” at the top of the pod and pull them off the vine. Here’s a photo of some of my best peas this season.

Store your fresh sugar snap peas in an airtight container in the fridge or in a sealed plastic bag. I like to wash them under cold running water right after I pick them and then wrap them in a paper towel before storing. They should last in the fridge for at least a week.

Most pea plants are done producing by mid-July. I picked off the last few peas and cut down my vines at this point. Now I plan to plant another round of beets in the bed that had my peas, since I read that beets will grow well in that soil. Let’s see!

Sugar Snap Pea Recipes

Were you successful at growing sugar snap peas in containers using these tips?! I’d love to hear about your experience. Leave a comment and let me know.

And before you go, check out these delicious recipes for fresh sugar snap peas: Fresh Melon and Sugar Snap Pea Salad, Sugar Snap Pea Quinoa Salad, and Spring Pea Orzo Fried Rice. For more gardening and cooking posts, sign up for my weekly newsletter.

Happy gardening! – Lizzie

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What You Need to Know About Growing Sugar Snap Peas

Easy-to-follow tips for growing sugar snap peas in containers

By Will Blesch

An excellent way to enjoy the full flavor of sweet, freshly picked sugar snap peas is to grow them in containers. If you have limited room on a patio or porch garden, then using containers can help you maximize the space you have.

Contents

Sugar snaps are a crossbreed between garden peas and snow peas. They’re a variety with incredible versatility and can be used in their pods or shelled. When grown at home, sugar snap peas are significantly sweeter and juicier than store-bought peas. You can grow them organically without the use of toxic chemicals and pick them straight from the plant!

Growing sugar snap peas in containers isn’t hard as long as you water them well. Just remember that wherever you choose to place their containers, you should ensure that they’ve got a spot with a mix of both shade and sunlight. But, everything we’ve mentioned so far sounds like advice for someone who’s already growing sugar snap peas.

In case you haven’t, we’ve put together some advice about growing sugar snap peas in a container.

You’ll need the following

Tools

Materials to have on hand

Get your container ready

Once you have all of your materials gathered and have your gloves and garden trowel, it’s time to get your container ready. First, you need to cut some plastic screening that’s just big enough to cover the hole in the bottom of your container. If you didn’t purchase plastic screening, you could also use pieces of a paper towel or a coffee filter.

Suppose you bought a container for your sugar snap peas that happens to be rather large. In that case, think about filling in the bottom one-third with soda bottles or other plastic containers, just as long as the flow of water isn’t impeded. Doing this can save you a bit of money on potting soil and make the entire container lighter, should you need to carry it from one location to another. Just ensure that you place plastic screening over the bottom third’s filler material before filling the remainder with potting soil.

Fill your container with potting mix

When you put potting soil into your container, try to make sure that you’ve got at least three inches remaining before reaching the rim. Some potting soil already have fertilizer added in, so you need to read the contents when purchasing. If the soil has fertilizer, then you can skip the next step. If it doesn’t, then you can add in an all-purpose fertilizer—just know that sugar snaps don’t need much.

Too much fertilizer can mess with the plant’s ability to produce normally. In fact, the plant will grow large pods with tiny seeds (or no seeds at all) inside them. Be careful, then, when mixing fertilizers with your potting soil. Finally, smooth the top of the dirt out but don’t press down and compact it.

Plant sugar snap peas

Before planting, consider using a legume inoculant to treat your pea seeds. Doing so can help your plants deliver a higher yield and keep them healthy. To help your seeds germinate faster, give them a good overnight soak in water. Afterward, put the seeds in a bag without drying them and then put the inoculant in and shake well.

Once all that’s done, sprinkle your seeds evenly onto the potting soil’s surface. Press them down into the dirt with the flat of your hand. Ensure there’s an additional inch of soil on top of them, but not much more than that. You want the seeds to germinate easily, and too much soil on top can hinder that process. Finally, water the container generously.

Set up a trellis for your peas

Sugar snap peas are climbing plants. You’ll therefore need a support system like a trellis to make sure your plant is stable as it grows. You can use the rail of your patio or deck as a sort of trellis. Alternatively, you can get some stakes and tie them together with twine. You should try to help your peas along by using wire ties to pin their tendrils to the trellis.

Keep on caring for the peas

As your peas begin to grow, keep the soil moist but not soaking wet. Additionally, sugar snaps should get a full six hours of sunlight every day. You won’t have to do much more than that since peas grow well all by themselves without your help.

Don’t be tempted to “feed” them anymore by putting additional fertilizer in the soil. Doing so at the very beginning is enough; peas naturally absorb a portion of their nitrogen needs directly from the atmosphere. Finally, you should harvest your sugar snaps as soon as they ripen. If you want the most tender, sweetest peas possible, then pick them when they’re still young and enjoy!

Editors' Recommendations

window sill or balcony cultivation

Almost every gardener grows peas on his personal plot. But on the windowsills, this culture is much less common. Although there is nothing difficult in getting a crop "in captivity", no. The plant is not capricious, it does not require any special care. Of course, not all varieties are suitable for growing at home, but from the existing variety it is quite possible to choose a few suitable ones. Most often, sugar peas are planted on the windowsill, in which not only grains are suitable for food, but also the beans themselves, and shelling - it is highly valued for its taste. nine0003

Contents

Pea varieties suitable for home cultivation

Peas at home are not the most common crop. Much more often, all kinds of greens and herbs are grown on the windowsills. But in principle, there is nothing impossible in this. Pea grains are not only tasty, but also very healthy. Its greens can also be eaten, it is a worthy alternative to lettuce leaves.

It is quite possible to grow peas on the windowsill even for those who have never cultivated them in the garden

For indoor growing, choose low-growing varieties from the sugar or shelling category. nine0062 In addition to compactness, they have another advantage - more juicy leaves than grain peas.

Of the sugar varieties, the most popular are the following:

  • Ambrosia. A relatively recent achievement of Russian breeders. It is specially noted that it is very well suited for fresh consumption, cooking all kinds of culinary dishes. A variety from the category of early ripening, the crop ripens in just 45-55 days. The height of the plant reaches 50–70 cm. Pods with a slight bend, tapering to the top, long (8–10 cm), slightly flattened. They are painted in salad color, there is no hard “parchment” layer. The lowest beans are formed at a height of about 35 cm without touching the ground. The grains are shriveled, yellowish in section. There are 6-8 of them in each pod. nine0014
  • Zhegalova 112. A variety that has proved the presence of undeniable merits to more than one generation of gardeners. These are mid-late ripening peas. Beans reach technical maturity 50-60 days after germination, fully ripen after 90-110 days. The stem is quite high (120–180 cm), with long internodes. The plant will definitely need support. The beans are almost straight or with a barely noticeable bend, the top is blunt. The average length is 10–15 cm, diameter is 2.3–2.5 cm. Each pod contains 5–8 seeds. They have an irregular rounded-angular shape, they are slightly flattened at the rib. Painted in green with a grayish tint. Harvest ripens massively. nine0014
  • Sugar girlfriend. Variety from the category of medium early. The growing season is 65–70 days. Stem height - 130–150 cm. Beans with a more or less pronounced bend, not long (7–8 cm), of different widths. The lowest ones are formed at a height of 70 cm. There is no “parchment” layer. The grains are medium-sized, wrinkled, pale yellow on the cut. Each pod contains 6-8 pieces. Compared to other varieties, it is characterized by a higher protein content (about 25%). Its other advantage is resistance to fungal diseases, including all types of rot. nine0014
  • Sugar Oregon (also known as Oregon Sugar). A variety from the category of mid-season, the crop ripens in 55–70 days, the fruiting period is extended. The stem is not particularly long (up to 1 m), but when grown under optimal conditions, it can stretch more than is convenient at home. Pods with a slightly pronounced bend and a blunt top, elongated (9-10 cm), as if flattened. Each has 5-7 peas. The "parchment" layer is not very noticeable, but it is present. However, peas can be eaten with the pod. The taste is very good, the variety is considered a delicacy. The grains are medium in size, light yellow on the cut, the surface is slightly wrinkled. Aeration greatly affects the yield, so the room must be regularly ventilated. nine0014
  • Children's sugar. Variety from the category of medium early. The stem is of medium length, about 95 cm. The beans are wide, with a slight bend, the top is pointed. The "parchment" layer is missing. The lower pods are formed at a height of 30-35 cm. The taste is very good, the peas are soft and sweet. The surface of the grains is wrinkled, on the cut they are yellow. The variety is unpretentious in care, valued for consistently high yields.
  • Inexhaustible 195. A variety from the category of medium early, reaches technical maturity in 45–60 days, full maturity in 70–90 days. Stem with long internodes, height varies from 75 cm to 115 cm. Pods with a slight bend or completely straight, blunt top. Sometimes there are "constrictions". The length of the bean is 8–10 cm, the diameter is 1.5–1.8 cm. Each pod contains 6–7 peas. Lime-coloured grains turn yellow when overripe. The shape is irregular - they are rounded-angular, slightly flattened.

Photo: home grown varieties of sugar peas

nine0084
Ambrosia peas were bred relatively recently, but have already managed to prove themselves from the best side
Goroh Zhegalova 112 successfully passed the test of time
Peas Sugar girlfriend - one of the novelties of the Russian selection
Sugar Oregon peas cannot be called sugar in the full sense of the word - the “parchment” layer is still present, albeit weakly expressed nine0086
Children's sugar peas are valued for their excellent taste
Peas Inexhaustible 195 stands out with grains of an unusual lime color

Shell peas can also be grown on the windowsill. He eats only grains, the beans themselves are inedible.

  • Oscar. A variety of peas comes from the Czech Republic. Belongs to the category of ultra-early. Harvest ripens in 42-45 days. The stem is quite short, about 70–80 cm. The pods are long (9-12 cm), strongly curved, apex pointed. Each has 10-12 peas. The lower beans are formed at a height of 40 cm. The grains that have reached technical maturity are green, on the cut they are pale salad. The shell is strongly wrinkled. The variety is resistant to diseases, especially to Fusarium wilt. Harvest ripens together.
  • Adagum. The variety belongs to the category of mid-season. Harvest ripens in 68–73 days. The stem reaches a height of 70–80 cm, the internodes are short, and there are few leaves. The presence of a well-developed mustache is characteristic. The beans are quite short (7 cm), without a bend, with a pointed top, deep green in color. Each pod contains 6-9peas. Usually one plant produces 12-16 beans. The grains are medium-sized (or closer to large), dark green, on the cut - lime, the skin is wrinkled. The variety demonstrates good immunity to powdery mildew and ascochitosis, but does not have absolute protection.
  • Early Gribovsky 11. Technical maturity occurs in 54-63 days after germination, full - in 66-73 days. Stem with short internodes, its height reaches a maximum of 35–40 cm. Pods are even or with a slight bend, dark green. The average length is 8–10 cm, diameter is 1.2–1.4 cm. Each pod contains 6–8 peas. The grains are rounded-angular, slightly flattened. As they mature, they change color from green to yellowish. Fruiting is friendly. The most dangerous disease for the variety is ascochitosis. nine0014
  • Hava pearls. A variety from the mid-season category, gardeners have been growing it for over twenty years. The process of crop ripening takes 55–70 days, fruiting is friendly. The height of the stem is 78–97 cm, in total there are 18–20 internodes on it, the pods begin to form at a height of 11–14th. Beans with a slightly pronounced bend, the tip is pointed. The average length is 7–8 cm, diameter is 1. 2 cm. Each contains 5–9 peas. The grains are not particularly large, almost one-dimensional, glossy, in the form of a cube with rounded corners, painted in lime color, white-yellow on the cut. The variety is valued for its good resistance to all types of rot. nine0014
  • Faith. Variety from the category of early ripening. Harvest can be harvested 48–63 days after seed germination. By this time, the beans reach technical maturity. Peas are recommended for canning. The height of the stem does not exceed 55–65 cm. The beans are straight or with a barely noticeable bend. The length is 6–9 cm, the diameter is 1.2–1.4 cm. Each contains 6–8 grains. The parchment layer is strongly pronounced. As it matures, the color of the pod changes from salad green to lime. The peas are not particularly large, irregularly rounded-angular in shape, yellowish, strongly wrinkled, one-dimensional. The variety is often infected with ascochitosis. nine0014
  • Sunrise. Peas reach technical maturity in 67 days. Stem height - 65–75 cm. Beans begin to form at a height of 18–20 cm. Leaves and stipules are dark green, medium in size. The parchment layer is clearly visible. The peas are bright green, lettuce cut, slightly flattened vertically, the surface is wrinkled.

Photo gallery: common varieties of shelled peas

Oscar peas are one of the first to harvest nine0086
Adagumsky pea resists diseases well, but does not have absolute immunity
Peas Early Gribovsky 11 are characterized by mass fruiting
Peas Khavsky pearls are relatively rarely affected by rot
Pea Vera is a very popular early variety. nine0086
The stem height of Voskhod Pea makes it suitable for growing at home.

Preparation of planting material

Preparation for growing peas at home begins with the selection of quality seeds. They are the key to a bountiful harvest in the future. You can buy them or make your own. They remain viable for two years.

Pea seed pre-planting stage one - visual inspection

First of all, the peas are sorted out and carefully examined, discarding those that have obvious defects - violations of the integrity of the skin, other mechanical damage, spots resembling traces of mold and rot, non-standard sizes and shapes, and so on.

The remaining seeds are immersed for 10-15 minutes in soft water with the addition of table salt (20 g per liter). If there is no melt or rainwater, ordinary plumbing is also suitable. But it will have to be defended for at least a day, waiting for the precipitation, resembling grayish-white flakes. You can also add a few drops of apple cider vinegar or citric acid crystals. nine0061 Those peas that float to the surface can be thrown away immediately. Unusual lightness means the absence of the germ. Such seeds will not give seedlings, this is obvious.

Soaking pea seeds in saline allows for the rejection of those that clearly will not germinate

Peas that have passed the potential germination test are prepared for germination. The grains extracted from the saline solution are washed in running water and the excess is allowed to drain, spreading them on linen napkins or cotton towels. nine0061 Then they are soaked in a bright crimson potassium permanganate solution to prevent the development of fungal diseases. Water with the addition of boric acid (0.1 g per 0.5 l) is also suitable. The procedure in the first case lasts 6-8 hours, in the second - 15-20 minutes.

Potassium permanganate solution is one of the most widely available disinfectants

After that, the peas are washed again and kept for 4-6 hours in plain water, heated to a temperature of 40-45ºС. During this time, it is advisable to change it at least once or twice, because it cools down. After a specified period, they are removed from the water and dried. nine0003

The final stage of preplant preparation is germination. A piece of cotton cloth or cotton wool is moistened with water and squeezed lightly so that it does not drip. To speed up the process, you can add a biostimulant to the water. Both purchased preparations (Epin, Kornevin, Heteroauxin, potassium humate) and folk remedies (aloe juice, honey, succinic acid) are suitable. Seeds are laid out on this fabric and covered with the same piece on top. It is undesirable to use gauze. Appearing seedlings are confused between the threads, it is almost impossible to extract them from there without breaking them. nine0062 And paper napkins very quickly spread into porridge, because the material will have to be constantly moistened as it dries. By no means should this be forgotten. If the fabric dries, the seeds will simply disappear.

If pea seeds are wrapped in cheesecloth, germinated peas will be very difficult to remove without damaging them

The resulting "package" is placed on a plate and put in heat. Suitable, for example, a heating battery or a window sill illuminated by the sun most of the day. Seeds are ready for planting, in which the sprout has reached about a centimeter length. They hatch somewhere in 2-3 days, the whole process takes 5-6 days. nine0061 Such peas sprout 4-5 days earlier than unprepared ones.

Germinated pea seeds show faster and better germination percentage than unprepared

The procedure is carried out in such a way that the seeds can be planted in the ground immediately after it. They don't even need to be dried.

Some gardeners recommend simply pouring warm water over the peas. But in this case, for those who do not have much experience, it is easy to spoil the planting material. If bubbles appear on the surface of the water, this means that some of the seeds have died due to a long stay in it. Usually the night is enough, and in the morning the peas can already be planted. They will swell, but will not germinate. Accordingly, the emergence of seedlings will also be delayed. nine0003

Video: Pre-plant preparation of pea seeds

How to grow peas at home on the windowsill: optimal conditions

Peas do not have any special requirements for growing conditions. But it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the “wishes” of the culture in advance in order to create an optimal or close to this microclimate for it. Only in this case is it possible to obtain a bountiful harvest.

Peas are one of the most cold-resistant horticultural crops. nine0062 This quality is preserved when grown at home. The plant feels great at a temperature of 16-18ºС, so the pots in spring and summer can be safely taken out to the balcony, even unglazed. But peas tolerate heat relatively poorly. At 25ºС and above, the process of plant development is greatly inhibited, it seems to fall into "hibernation". This negatively affects future yields. Therefore, at home, it is undesirable to plant grains in June or July. As a rule, these are the hottest months. The critical minimum for culture is approximately -5ºС. nine0003

At home, peas must receive enough light

Peas belong to plants with long daylight hours. For normal development, plants require a minimum of 12 hours of light per day. In summer, the pots are put on the windowsill of a window facing south, southeast, southwest. If there is not enough sun (and in most of Russia it is, especially in winter, late autumn and early spring), artificial light sources will have to be used. Both special phytolamps and conventional ones (fluorescent, LED) are suitable. They are placed about half a meter above the container with peas, from above, at a distance of about half a meter, at a slight angle. nine0003

Phytolamps help provide daylight hours of the required duration

Peas have a very positive attitude to fresh air, they are not afraid of drafts. The room must therefore be regularly ventilated. Spraying is also useful to him, especially in the heat. You can raise the humidity in the room in other ways - place more other plants in the room, arrange basins with cool water, put wet pebbles or expanded clay in the pot tray, buy a special device. nine0003

The root system of peas is developed, the presence of a powerful taproot is characteristic. When grown outdoors, it goes into the soil for about a meter. At home, this, of course, is impossible, but you still have to choose a deep, spacious container that resembles a bucket for culture. Too little soil in flat pots, this can cause overheating of the roots and a sharp decrease in yield. The preferred material is natural ceramic. It provides normal aeration and does not allow moisture to stagnate in the soil. nine0003

Pot for growing peas must be deep and spacious

Peas prefer a nutritious but light substrate. Regardless of whether you buy soil or mix it yourself, baking powder must be present in the composition - coarse sand, perlite, vermiculite, crushed dry sphagnum moss, coconut fiber, straw.

Crushed dry sphagnum moss gives the soil the required looseness

Other necessary component - humus or rotted compost. It will provide the mixture with the necessary nutrition. nine0061 It is strictly forbidden to use fresh manure. It saturates the soil with nitrogen, peas, like all legumes, have similar properties. And an excess of this macroelement negatively affects the immunity of the plant, contributes to the active formation of green mass to the detriment of flowering and fruiting.

Humus improves soil fertility

To humus and baking powder, taken in approximately equal volume, add the same amount of ordinary earth. You can use the soil from the garden (best of all from the one on which any Solanaceae or Pumpkin grew before), a purchased universal substrate for seedlings or houseplants, forest soil. The latter is best taken from under any deciduous trees, except for birch. nine0003

Any primer must be sterilized before use. The easiest way is to put it for several days on an unheated balcony in winter or hold it in the freezer. Other methods are roasting in the oven or steaming.

Varieties of peas whose stem length does not exceed a meter do not need support. Just to be on the safe side, they can be let curl around a bamboo support. They are sold at any store with houseplants.

It is quite possible to build a support for low-growing pea varieties on your own or simply buy it

If you chose a more “overall” variety, you will have to build something resembling a trellis. The simplest option is several vertical supports and horizontally strong threads, fishing line or thin wire stretched between them. The optimal cell size for the resulting grid is 10*10 cm. Being correctly placed, it performs not only a utilitarian function, but also a decorative one. This "green screen" looks very unusual and original. Just do not put a net entwined with peas against the wall butt. Under such conditions, normal air exchange is impossible. nine0003

Planting procedure

Prepared pea seeds are planted in a common container, wide and shallow. If you immediately provide each of them with an individual large capacity, there is a high risk of acidification of the soil and the development of rot. In principle, landing in plastic cups or peat pots is acceptable, but then a pick will still be required. The root system of peas simply does not have enough space.

There is nothing complicated in the disembarkation procedure itself. They operate according to the following algorithm:

  1. Containers are filled with disinfected soil, moderately watered and leveled. 3-5 cm should remain to the edge of the container. If there are no drainage holes, they must be made independently. Drainage is desirable at the bottom - a layer of fine expanded clay, crushed stone, pebbles, brick chips about 2 cm thick.

    Initially, pea seeds are sown in common containers

  2. Seeds are sown in grooves about 2 cm deep. The interval between them is 5–7 cm. The row spacing is 7–8 cm. The peas are placed with a sprout down. The grooves are sprinkled with soil, without ramming it. Then the soil is moistened again by spraying from a spray bottle. The container is covered with glass or a piece of polyethylene, turning it into a greenhouse. Before germination, peas do not need light. However, regular watering is required as the top layer of soil dries out and daily airing. It is enough to remove the shelter for 10-15 minutes to get rid of the accumulated condensate. nine0002 Seeds of peas are planted in the soil with the sprout pointing downwards

  3. After the seeds germinate, the shelter is removed. The culture is provided with daylight hours of the required duration, naturally or artificially. The optimum temperature is 18–20ºС. Regular watering is still important. The soil must not be allowed to dry out. About a week after germination, the first feeding is carried out by watering the peas with a solution of simple superphosphate (2–3 g per liter of water). nine0002 Prepared pea seeds germinate fairly quickly

  4. In the phase of the second true leaf, the seedlings dive. They are seated in separate containers with a volume of 0.3-0.5 liters. You can reuse one common box, but it must be large enough. The optimal distance between plants is at least 5 cm. The soil is used the same as for seed germination.
    1. They are removed from the old container together with a clod of earth on the roots, trying to minimize its integrity. nine0014
    2. Seedlings are planted in holes about 5 cm deep.
    3. Keep peas in partial shade for 4–5 days after picking, protected from direct sunlight.
    4. Seedlings that have reached a height of 12–15 cm are tied to a support if necessary.

      Seedlings of peas after picking, if necessary, tie up to a support

Further plant care and harvesting

Caring for peas is simple, both in the garden and at home. The main component of agricultural technology is proper watering. Regular loosening of the soil in a pot is also important, this provides access to fresh air to the roots and prevents the soil from turning sour. nine0003

It is necessary to loosen the soil when growing peas both in a pot on the windowsill and in the open field

Most varieties begin to bloom a month after planting seeds in the ground or even a little earlier. Harvest ripens in another 20-25 days. For many sugar varieties, this period is reduced to 10-15 days. There are no problems with fruiting. Pea is a self-pollinating crop, it copes with this task perfectly without any outside help.

Pea fruits, even in "captivity" are tied without outside help

Before flowering, plants should be watered twice a week if the weather outside is optimal for the crop. As soon as the buds open, the intervals are reduced to two days. In the heat, even daily watering and additional spraying may be required. In any case, only soft water, heated to room temperature, is used.

It's easy to determine if it's time to wait or if it's time to wait - the soil from the top layer, when rubbed in the fingers, feels like "prickly", it's impossible to squeeze it into a lump. Every time, about half an hour after the procedure, when the moisture is already absorbed, the soil is loosened to a depth of about 5 cm.

It is strongly not recommended to pour peas. This compacts the soil, making it difficult to aerate. It also increases the risk of developing fungal diseases.

In addition to top dressing carried out even before diving, it is enough to fertilize peas three times during the active growing season. The first time the procedure is carried out immediately before flowering, the next - with an interval of 12-15 days. The nutrient solution is prepared by dissolving 1.5–2 g of simple superphosphate and potassium sulfate in a liter of water. There are also special fertilizers for legumes, which you can easily buy at any specialized store. They do not contain nitrogen, which the plant saturates the soil on its own. nine0003

Fertilizers for legumes do not contain nitrogen - this macronutrient is produced by plants themselves

Those who prefer natural supplements can use dry screened wood ash or make an infusion.

Wood ash is a natural source of potassium and phosphorus

Video: planting peas and further care of the crop

Beans are harvested as they mature. The diameter of the grains in the state of technical maturity is not less than 6–7 mm. nine0061 Ripe beans left on the plant inhibit the formation of new ovaries.

Regular picking of mature beans stimulates the emergence of new buds, thereby increasing the yield

The lowest pods ripen first. Fruiting in most varieties is extended, lasting about two months. During this time, 0.5–0.8 kg of beans are removed from one bush. They are carefully cut with scissors or a sharp knife. Do not pull, twist or pull the pods. It is very easy to cause significant damage to the plant itself. nine0003

A sign that the fruiting period is ending is a hardened stem. But you can extend it a little by removing all the leaves from the lower half and pinching the top. This procedure stimulates the appearance of new shoots.

If you have a garden, don't just throw away mature plants. The cut leaves are tossed into the compost heap. And the crushed roots are an effective and absolutely natural fertilizer, a worthy alternative to manure and humus. It not only increases the fertility of the soil, but also improves its texture. nine0003

Peas are sick at home quite rarely, and with proper care - almost never. The most dangerous disease for planting is powdery mildew. At the same time, it is undesirable to use chemicals to combat the fungus, they are deposited both in the soil and in the beans themselves. The first symptoms are a powdery greyish-white coating and blurry yellow spots on the leaves. Gradually, the “flour” darkens and seems to thicken, the affected tissues turn brown, dry and die.

Powdery mildew is one of the most common fungal diseases that affects both houseplants and horticultural crops

For prevention, a few crystals of potassium permanganate are periodically added to the water for irrigation, and crushed chalk or sifted wood ash is added to the soil during planting. To cope with a disease detected at an early stage, folk remedies are enough. Peas are sprayed with a solution of colloidal sulfur, mustard powder, diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 with kefir or whey with the addition of iodine, infusion of onion or garlic arrows, wormwood. As a rule, 2-3 treatments with an interval of 3-5 days are sufficient. In the absence of effect, fungicides of biological origin are used (Strobi, Alirin-B, Thiovit-Jet). nine0003

The second common household disease is root rot. Often it develops as a result of regular waterlogging of the soil. It is also dangerous because the fungus parasitizes on the roots for a long time, the aerial part of the plant looks healthy. And when the stem begins to blacken and soften, becomes slippery to the touch, the soil is covered with a layer of mold and spreads the smell of rot, it is too late to save the plant. It must be destroyed as soon as possible - this is the source of the spread of infection. Preventive measures to prevent the development of root rot are the same as those recommended for the preventive control of powdery mildew. nine0003

The obvious symptoms of root rot of peas appear only when it is too late to save him - the development of the disease has gone too far

Video: growing peas at home

Peas are not only tasty, but also very healthy. Therefore, it is difficult to find a garden plot that does not have at least a small bed with it. But grains, which are loved by both adults and children, can be enjoyed not only in season. Preparation of peas for planting is similar to that of seeds intended for open ground. Directly planting in the ground and further caring for the crop is nothing complicated. In fact, the latter consists in loosening the soil, watering and fertilizing. nine0003