Steps to planting a tree
How to Plant A Tree the Right Way - 7 Steps for Getting it Right Every Time
With a little luck and good timing, sometimes simply sticking a tree in the ground and walking away can be enough for it to survive. But knowing how to plant a tree the right way, will ensure success every time. In my book, there are 7 steps for planting success which I share below.
Suffice it to say, I’ve learned these all-important st eps mostly by trial and error. It’s always the best way to learn, especially when it comes to gardening.
Trees have been described as the lungs of the earth for good reason. Without them, there would be no life on this planet. That’s reason enough to plant as many as we can. But when you learn just how important they are for so many reasons, you begin to understand my passion for trees and why we need more.
That’s led to a lifelong crusade to encourage people to plant more trees. Or even one. So it only stands to reason how thrilled I was to team up with Lands’ End recently to encourage everyone to #PlantATree in celebration of Earth Day this year.
So whether this is your first tree planting, or you’ve planted a forest by now, we’re always learning. Knowing how to plant a tree the right way — especially now, considering such unprecedented climate conditions — will ensure your efforts will not be in vain.
To give you the whole story, check out this video we created to walk you through how to plant a tree the right way, along with the 7-steps for getting it right every time.
The Best Time to Plant a Tree
Trees (and shrubs) can be planted any time of the year that you can dig the proper planting hole. However, there are better times than others for multiple reasons.
Suffice it to say, the more time you can put between when you plant a tree, and the arrival of summer, the better. That makes fall the very best time of year to relocate trees and shrubs or plant new ones. Early spring is a popular time as well.
An easy way to know if your hole is at the right depth is to take your shovel handle and lay it across the grade. The top of the root ball or tree flare should be at or above the handle level.
How to plant a tree the right way – follow these seven important steps:
-1. Prepare the proper planting hole. When preparing any hole for planting, make it three times wider than the current root mass but never deeper than the plant was growing in its previous environment.
An even better guide with trees is to look for the flare of the trunk near the soil level. Don’t place the tree in the planting hole so deep that any part of that flare is covered with soil. The truth is, even nurseries sometimes put plants in containers too deeply. There have been many times where I’ve actually had to pull away soil to find the base of the trunk flare and true surface roots. Make a habit of checking this.
-2. Plant high. I go even one step further by placing trees and shrubs in their new environment with up to 25% of the root ball higher than the surrounding soil level.
I then taper soil up to cover all the roots and add a generous layer of mulch above that. Newly disturbed soil tends to settle and shrubs and trees planted at grade can quickly settle below grade and succumb to root rot or disease.
In my book, it’s always better to plant a tree or shrub slightly high and allow the area to drain away rather than for a plant to sit in a bowl and collect excess water.
Don’t be afraid to break up the roots of a pot plant tree or plant to free them of their circular growth pattern. In fact, you must. Failure to do so now (your last chance) can doom your plant to lackluster performance at best.
-3. Inspect the roots and disturb when necessary. Once the plant is out of its container, look at the roots. If they are densely bound in a circular pattern or have started growing in the shape of the container (even slightly), break up the pattern.
It’s vitally important to stop this pattern now. The biggest mistake you can make at this point is to place a rootbound plant into the ground as is.
Unless you break up the pattern, you’ve likely sentenced the plant to a slow death. At a minimum, it will likely never establish or reach a fraction of its potential.
Don’t worry about hurting the roots or losing soil as you break the roots apart or even cut some away. Better to give them a fresh start than allow the constrictive pattern to only get worse below ground. While you don’t want to be any rougher than necessary, do what you must to arrest the pattern.
I often scratch my fingers across the sides and bottom of the root mass in mild cases. In more severe situations, I’ll slice up the roots vertically with a pruning saw, hack off the bottom inch or so, and or pull apart the root mass to clearly create new opportunities for non-circular new root development.
Unless you can dig a hole large enough for the eventual mature root zone and amend the entire area, simply backfill with the existing native soil.
-4. Don’t amend the soil. Contrary to traditional planting methods, contemporary research indicates that you should not amend the hole with additional organic material (unless you intend to amend the entire area where roots will eventually grow).
Roots growing in amended soil rarely venture into harder native soil. The long-term affect is a smaller root system, reduced growth and a less hardy plant.
Instead, simply break up the clumps in existing soil, remove the rocks and backfill. Studies show plant roots growing in only the native soil actually did a better job at establishing and expanding beyond the original hole.
I find the best and easiest way to eliminate air pockets during planting is to blast the backfilled soil with a stiff stream of water after refilling the hole about half way. Then again after all the soil has been added back.
-5. Eliminate air pockets. While you could lightly tamp or hand-pack the soil around the plant roots to ensure good soil-to-root contact, I prefer to add a stiff spray of water to the hole after backfilling half way. Not only does it provide needed moisture but the water also helps eliminate air pockets that could otherwise result in dead roots or worse (without compacting the soil too much).
Finally, water again gently but thoroughly once all the soil is in place.
-6. Add mulch. Starting about two inches from the trunk (leave this area exposed), place roughly two inches of organic matter such as shredded leaves, or ground bark or nuggets around the plant, at least out to the drip line. Further is better. Mulch helps retain much-needed moisture and helps keep roots cooler near the surface—a very important requirement for newly installed plants.
Perhaps the most important step during the planting process is to keep up with the watering until your plant is fully established. That can take longer than you think. Soaker hoses or drip irrigation on automatic times makes this an easy process.
-7. Water Properly Until Established. The most important job you will have after planting is to keep plants and trees well watered until established. This can take weeks to months, to even a year or more in some cases. But don’t worry.
You can put this part of the process on auto-pilot. (I’ll tell you how below.)
The key to proper watering and establishment is slow and deep irrigation. It’s not practical to do that by hand. The only way to establish trees properly through irrigation is with soaker hoses or drip irrigation.
The slow and deep irrigation allows the soil around the roots to saturate, so the roots have time to absorb the moisture, while avoiding excess runoff. Short, manual blasts of water from an overhead hose or sprinkler system simply don’t come close to providing the same effectiveness for water delivery.
I water newly planted trees every day for about the first week. For the next two weeks, I ease off to about every other day. Then gradually ease back from there.
However, there’s a fine line between watering enough and watering too much—especially with large trees that arrive with root balls wrapped in burlap. These trees have lost all their feeder roots when dug from the ground.
Providing adequate water is critical to their survival and establishment.
That said, I’ve killed more than one tree like this by overwatering. Even if you prepare a large planting hole, when drainage is poor, the root ball may be sitting in water and literally drown. There’s no easy way to know how wet the soil is deeper into the planting hole.
The best advice I can offer is to pay close attention to how the tree responds (and all your plants for that matter). While it’s common for them to lose up to half their leaves to transplant stress (a normal part of the process), more can indicate a potential problem.
If you sense the tree is responding poorly, and you are watering consistently, you’re likely over-watering. If the leaves are turning brown, drying up, and falling off, and the soil appears dry, water more.
To add to the challenge, soil that appears dry at the top may be very wet a few inches down. And the opposite is true as well. All the more reason it is important to apply your detective skills based on observation and knowing how much or little you’ve been watering.
In the first few weeks, soil that is moist but not soggy is your target range. And depending on what you’re using to deliver the water will affect how long you need irrigate per session. So there’s no simple answer.
Put Watering on Auto-pilot
One of the best time-savers you can find to lighten the load and put your irrigation duties on auto-pilot is to use soaker hoses and/or drip irrigation combined with portable battery-operated timers. I cannot stress the importance and time-saving benefits enough!
Fertilizing
If you plant to fertilize, I don’t suggest doing so until you know your trees or shrubs have taken to their new environment through successful establishment.
All energy should be concentrated on root development first. Adopt the walk-before-you-run approach. But even then, I still like to play it safe by using a slow-release, non-burning organic fertilizer that won’t over-tax my plants.
While all the above steps are essential, your active engagement in monitoring newly planted trees for signs of distress over time will be the ultimate deciding factor in your tree planting success.
Make any necessary adjustments in real-time, and you can likely reverse a potentially downward spiral into a tree that will live a happy and very long life.
Please join me this Earth Day and let’s all #PlantATree.
About Joe Lamp'l
Joe Lamp'l is the Host and Executive Producer of the award winning PBS television series Growing A Greener World. Off camera, Joe dedicates his time to promoting sustainability through his popular books, blog, podcast series, and nationally syndicated newspaper columns. Follow Joe on Twitter
8 Steps to Plant a Tree
By Canopy Team on October 17, 2016
At Canopy, we’re pretty proud of our tree-planting track record.
Thanks to our rigorous planting protocols (and our awesome volunteers!), trees planted by Canopy have exceptional rates of establishment and survival. If you’re getting ready to plant a new tree, we recommend these 8 proven steps to ensure a happy, healthy, and long-lived tree.
But first! Before planting…
Before you reach for your shovel, carefully consider tree selection, placement, and site conditions. The foundation for a healthy, long-lived tree is planting the right in the right place. Consult the Canopy Tree Library for tree suggestions and requirements, and feel free to contact us with questions.
And remember: our optimal planting season in the Bay Area is when the weather is wet and cool, from late-October to mid-March.
Alright, now it’s time to plant.
Step 1: Dig the planting hole.
First, remove the tree container from the container and measure the root ball (the mass of soil and roots that comes out of the container) with the handle of your shovel to estimate the depth to dig. Dig the hole as deep as, and 2-3 times as wide as the root ball. It is very important that the root flare (the point where trunk widens and becomes roots) remains above the surface of the soil.
To prevent air pockets below the tree, create a small mound of soil in the base of the hole and tamp down (press firmly but do not over-compact the soil) to prevent the tree from settling.
Step 2: Massage/loosen/trim the roots and remove the nursery stake.
We have found that this step is key to robust tree performance. Roots should ideally radiate out straight from the center of the root ball. Lay the tree on its side with the root ball on a tarp and work gloved fingers in deeply to loosen and free the roots. Cut off any circling roots to prevent girdling (when circling roots get bigger, grow around the base of the tree and cut-off the flow of water and nutrients to other parts of the tree). This is a good time to cut the green ties and remove the nursery stake.
Step 3: Place the tree in the center of the hole.
The tree has only one chance to be planted properly so make sure the depth and position is correct before filling in the soil.
The root flare should lie above the surface. If it is too low or too high, lift the tree out and add or remove soil as needed. Rotate the tree until you find the best placement to keep major branches away from walkways or buildings. Hold the tree upright and fill in with soil around the root ball. Gently tamp down soil around the root ball with a shovel or the toe of your shoe to eliminate large air pockets. Do not step directly on the root ball, as this will damage and compact the roots.
Step 4: Build a soil berm
.A soil berm is a mound encircling the tree, 10-12 inches from the trunk, which creates a basin or bowl that will hold approximately 10 gallons of water. The inside of the berm should be at the outer edge of the root ball. Keeping the root ball moist is essential until the tree is established.
Step 5: Stake the tree.
Two ‘lodge pole’ stakes are used to help the young tree grow up straight until the roots are established. In parks and yards three stakes may be used to protect the tree from lawn mowers.
Place the point of the stake firmly on the ground, 8 inches away from the trunk and hold straight. Lean the top of the stake over to easily slide the stake pounder onto the stake. Always wear a hard hat while using the stake pounder (a very heavy tool with two handles which fits over the end of the stake). Pound until the stake is firmly set and the pounder can easily be removed. Use extreme caution when removing the pounder from the stake. Repeat with the second or third stake spaced equally around the tree.
Step 6: Tie the tree.
Ties should be placed at the lowest point on the trunk where the tree can be held straight, generally about 4 feet from the ground. Hold the trunk at the level you plan to tie it; the tree should stand straight without leaning. Create a figure 8 pattern with the tie, one loop around the trunk and the other around the tree. Nail the ends of the tie together into the stake.
Step 7: Water the tree thoroughly!
Fill the basin with water and reinforce the berm if needed.
Continue watering (once a week when there has not been a soaking rain) until established.
Step 8: Add Mulch.
Cover the soil 2-3 feet around the tree base with 3-5 inches of mulch (composed of wood chips, shredded bark or leaves) to retain moisture, suppress weeds and improve soil composition. Keep mulch 2-3 inches from the trunk and root flare of the tree to prevent insects and rodents from burrowing in the mulch and chewing on the bark.
Next Steps
Click here for details on caring for your young tree and water guidelines.
More on planting
You can download Canopy’s illustrated Tree Planting Pocket Guide here.
Canopy’s step-by-step tree planting video:
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Stages of planting trees and shrubs
Nowadays, planting trees and shrubs in the form of seedlings is much more popular than growing plants from seeds and grains.
This is due to a significant reduction in the period after which a shrub or tree acquires an attractive appearance and begins to bear fruit.
Stages of planting trees and shrubs
Nowadays, planting trees and shrubs in the form of seedlings is much more popular than growing plants from seeds and grains. This is due to a significant reduction in the period after which a shrub or tree acquires an attractive appearance and begins to bear fruit. However, this procedure requires special skills and pre-prepared plants.
Trees and shrubs are planted in early spring before the leaves appear, as well as in late autumn with the beginning of leaf fall. An exception is coniferous trees, which are highly sensitive to movement. nine0008 For better survival, they are transplanted from mid-August to the end of September. Deciduous trees and shrubs are less demanding on strict conditions, but they are best transplanted during dormancy. Then the survival rate in the new place will be significantly higher.
Trees and shrubs are planted with the whole root system in order for the plant to adapt to the new place as quickly as possible. In order to preserve the root system, seedlings are removed along with a clod of earth. In this form, they are planted in a specially prepared pit. If the roots are dry or damaged, they may be pruned. It should be noted that the crown can be significantly larger than the root system. In this case, it is also processed with scissors. nine0003
Professional planting of trees and shrubs begins with the preparation of a special hole in the area of future growth. For shrubs, a pit is dug with sides of 40 cm, and for trees, more than 60 cm is required. The pit is filled with a special nutrient composition, mineral and organic fertilizers, as well as substances that improve the survival rate of in a new place. The earth removed from the pit is not used in the future. It can be used as bedding for other plants. nine0003
At the second stage, planting trees and shrubs consists in directly placing a seedling in a prepared hole.
The root system can be treated with nutrients and pre-soaked. When planting, the root neck should not be more than 2-3 cm below the ground level. The earth around the plant is compacted. The trunk or stem is tied to a special peg.
The planting of trees and shrubs is completed with intensive watering, which should be repeated periodically. Shrubs need up to 12 liters of water, trees - up to 25 liters. nine0003
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Should I overpay for a landscape project? Lawn restoration procedure, how to do it Planting from OASIS groups Country Landscape Design Ideas nine0000 Planting trees and shrubs: basic rulesPlanting trees and shrubs: basic rules
As a rule, planting plants raises many questions not only among beginner amateur gardeners, but also among practicing gardeners.
How to plant? When is the best time to plant? What to do with the packaging of the root system when planting? Is it easier to plant container plants?
In this article, we will try to answer most of the most common questions and formulate the basic rules and recommendations for planting and everything connected with it. nine0003
Despite the fact that the rules for handling plants and planting technology are quite simple, their strict observance, along with high-quality planting material and careful plant care, guarantees you excellent results: high survival rate, healthy and ornamental plants for many years.
Basic rules for handling plants during unloading and planting
First of all, in order to avoid breakage of branches and other damage, they must be tied up when loading and transporting plants. At the same time, fragile and brittle plants, such as winged euonymus, hydrangeas, heathers, junipers, as well as dwarf coniferous and standard forms, should be treated very carefully.
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If the weather is hot, do not transport seedlings in a hermetically sealed box unless it is an insulated container. High temperatures can cause damage to leaf and shoot tissues. Cars with an awning or open (onboard) are best suited for plants within the area. For long-distance transportation, insulated containers are better.
Plants on the site can be unloaded manually or by mechanical means: auto-loader, crane-manipulator. nine0003
Heavy trees require special handling. Plants with a lump can only rise behind a lump, while it is imperative to support the tree trunk or crown if it is a bush form. Rough handling of the trunk can lead to serious mechanical damage to the bark and wood, as well as damage to the ball and roots if the tree is lifted by the trunk.
The coma of large trees and shrubs is usually packed in a metal braid (mesh). This greatly facilitates their unloading and movement - special hooks are used to lift the plants, which are hooked onto the net.
However, if the lump is packed only in burlap, the use of hooks is unacceptable - this leads to severe damage to the burlap and the integrity of the lump, and, consequently, the root system of the plant. nine0003
When unloading large-sized plants with a large clod using a crane-manipulator, 3 chocks are used: 2 of them hold the main weight of the clod, and the third supports the tree trunk in a horizontal position or slightly higher (see figure). At the same time, it is very important to protect the trunk at the place where the chalk is attached from damage and scuffing of the bark, for example, by wrapping it with a thick layer of burlap.
Unloading container plants is much easier. Plastic containers and soft bags-containers (Easy Lift), as a rule, are equipped with 2-4 comfortable handles. nine0003
After the seedlings are delivered to the site, it is advisable to immediately start planting them. The shorter the shelf life of plants and the faster the planting, the higher the survival rate.
This rule is especially important during spring plantings, when the air temperature rises every day, the plants enter the growth phase and require more and more careful care.
If, nevertheless, it is not possible to plant the plants immediately, it is best to leave them for a while in the shade. Tall trees have a large windage and can fall. Therefore, they need to be tied to some kind of support, while protecting the trunk from damage with burlap. If this is not possible, it is permissible to carefully lay the trees on the ground. nine0003
The coma and containers of plants need to be watered and, during storage, covered from overheating and drying with burlap or mulched with a thick layer of sawdust, humus. Plants are watered daily, and if necessary, 2 times a day.
If you purchased open-rooted plants and can only plant them after a few days, try placing them in cooler conditions such as a basement, a cold garage, or the north side of the house where there is no direct sun.
The roots should be covered with a damp cloth, and it is best to dig in. You can not keep the root system of seedlings constantly immersed in water - the roots will not be able to breathe. nine0003
Choosing a place for planting
Ideally, plants should be planted according to the assortment list in pre-marked places (project, planting drawing and dendroplan). This will allow you to avoid many mistakes when choosing an assortment and placing plants on the site.
If you do not have a planting project, be sure to take into account not only the decorative qualities of a particular species, the size of adult plants, but also the requirements for growing conditions, but rather entrust the selection and arrangement of plants in the garden to a professional landscape designer. nine0003
A planted plant will grow successfully only under optimal soil, air, light, heat and moisture conditions. If at least one of the conditions does not meet the requirements of the plant, then it will determine the result.
Usually, if the requirements for growing conditions are not taken into account during planting (for example, a light-loving shrub is planted in the shade), this will not lead to the immediate death of the plant, but its development will be slowed down (the shoots will stretch, the crown will not be thick), the decorative qualities will deteriorate (there will be no bloom), frost resistance and disease resistance will decrease. nine0005 As a rule, most plants develop well if they are provided with the following conditions:
Illumination: optimal sun or light partial shade; if the direct sun in the area is less than half of the daylight hours, you should choose plants that tolerate partial shade and shade;
Soil moisture: average is optimal, that is, neither drying out of the clod nor stagnation of water is allowed. For excessively dry soils, if it is impossible to provide regular watering, choose drought-resistant varieties. With a high position of groundwater and stagnant waterlogging, plants are respectively resistant to flooding.
nine0005 Soil: loamy or sandy, light, rich in organic and mineral substances. pH close to neutral (6-7). If the soil in your area is heavy or very acidic, be sure to take this into account when choosing an assortment, planting plants that are moisture-loving (or prefer an acidic substrate) and give preference to undemanding species and varieties.
Wind: many heat-loving and capricious breeds winter well only if they are planted in a place protected from the wind, where more snow accumulates in winter. nine0003
Planting with ball
1. Planting dates
Usually, planting is carried out in two periods: in spring and autumn.
During spring planting, the main danger is the drying out of the root system. Therefore, during transportation, storage of plants, it is necessary to carefully monitor that the roots (clod of earth) are always wet, and the branches (especially with blossoming leaves) are protected from the scorching sun and wind.
The timing of spring planting is immediately after the soil thaws and before the active growth of shoots begins (in the middle lane, usually from the beginning of April to the first week of May).
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But, despite the fact that the period between the maturation of the soil and the beginning of growth in plants is only two to three weeks, which should be met, spring planting has many advantages.
Firstly, plants planted in spring during the summer and autumn will be able to take root well in a new place and adapt to our climate. Timely spring planting, subject to all the rules of agricultural technology, gives the highest survival rate.
Secondly, from a practical point of view, it is preferable to plant in the spring, since the choice of planting material in April-May is the widest: the peak of supplies falls just in the spring. You can not only place an order for plants of the desired type, variety, size and quantity, but also choose your favorite specimens on the site. nine0003
When choosing the timing of planting, it is necessary to take into account some biological features of the species. So, the autumn transplant is poorly tolerated by such species as oak and birch.
These species are traditionally planted in the spring (this is not true for container plants). Heat-loving, capricious plants (for example, rhododendrons, azaleas, privet), also in our climate, it is preferable to plant in the spring - this will allow them to take root better and prepare for winter.
In addition, when planting in the spring, you will be able to admire new plants in your garden already this year. nine0003
A very typical mistake during spring plantings: "You need to wait until the earth warms up." In fact, it is better to plant earlier, as soon as you can dig a planting hole.
The autumn planting season begins with the beginning of leaf fall. Compared to the short spring period, the search and planting of the necessary species or varieties of plants can continue until the first frosts, but the peak of the autumn season is September-mid-October.
Planting should not be overly delayed: in late autumn, the choice of planting material in nurseries and garden centers is no longer so rich.
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In this case, it is much more convenient to place an order for plants and receive high-quality planting material by a certain date in the right assortment and quantity.
2. Seat preparation
Planting begins after the completion of construction and part of the landscape work on the site. The area for planting should be leveled (if necessary, a vertical layout should be made), cleared of debris, and the necessary measures taken to improve the soil. This will protect your new plants from accidental damage to the bark during work, compaction of the soil in the root zone, filling of excess soil covering the root collar, etc. and avoid many problems in the future. nine0003
Landing pits and trenches are dug out in accordance with the project after marking work has been completed (taking the project into nature). For early spring plantings, pits can be dug in the fall, warming them for the winter with foliage, moss, sawdust, straw.
When digging holes, the upper fertile layer of the earth is folded separately from the lower, less fertile one.
When backfilling the pits, fertile soil is first used. In case of unsuitability of the excavated soil, it is partially or completely replaced with the brought fertile soil. nine0003
It is optimal if the properties of the soil, its mechanical composition on the site and within the planting pit are close. Significantly change the composition of the soil only within the planting hole should not be.
Some plants (rhododendrons, heathers, roses) require a special soil substrate with a certain structure, composition or pH, which is prepared in advance, in accordance with the requirements of the plants or bought ready-made.
If the soil on the site is disturbed, the soil contains a large amount of construction debris and clay (taken out from under the foundation) and there is no way to take measures to improve it, planting is carried out in pits filled with imported soil. nine0003
The shape of the pit is made round with sheer walls. Since after planting the roots of the plant mainly grow to the sides, a large depth of the planting hole is not needed.
It is better if it is slightly larger than the height of the plant's coma - this will subsequently reduce soil subsidence.
In addition, it is useful to loosen the walls of the planting hole or dig the soil around so that the roots can more easily grow into the surrounding soil. The diameter of the planting holes depends on the size and age of the plant, and, most importantly, on the size of the root system. On average, the diameter of the pit should be 1.5 times the diameter of the lump. nine0003
For dense group plantings of shrubs, common pits are dug in the form of a planted group, for hedges - trenches, respectively.
Separately, you need to consider the issue of planting on heavy, clay soils. As a rule, improving (replacing) the soil within the planting pit (especially for large trees) is ineffective, since a large difference in the mechanical composition of the soil between heavy clay and light planting soil will retain the “container” effect: the roots of the plant will most likely not leave the planting pit.
pits. In this case, you need to improve the soil throughout the area. The situation is similar with excessively light, sandy soils. nine0003
3. Planting technology
After preparing the seat, proceed directly to planting.
When planting a plant in a hole, it is very important to track the position of the root neck (thickening of the base of the trunk, where it goes into the roots).
In woody plants, the deepening of the root collar, especially on heavy clay soils, leads to the formation of rot. The fact is that with prolonged stagnation of water, which often happens in the spring near the trunks during snowmelt or in rainy weather, oxygen-free conditions are created, the bark on the trunk cannot breathe normally and can be damaged by rot in the lower part. nine0003
This process is slow, so such plants may initially grow and develop normally, but will gradually acquire an oppressed appearance and die.
For the correct installation of the plant, first inspect the root system and the base of the trunk: is the root neck visible.
If it is buried, then it is necessary to free it by removing part of the soil from the surface of the clod (or container).
The position of the root collar when planting the plant can be checked using a flat bar placed on the edges of the planting hole. Ideally, the root collar should be at ground level (maybe a little higher), but should never be buried. Therefore, taking into account the subsidence of the soil, the plants are planted 5 - 20 cm above the desired level. In order not to take out a large tree several times and not to add earth, it is advisable to compare the depth of the planting hole and the height of the plant coma in advance. nine0003
After setting the tree in the hole at the right level, it must be leveled so that the trunk is vertical and the plant is oriented in the direction you need.
If necessary, you need to take care of the garter of planted plants. In order to fix the tree in a vertical position, two strong pegs are used, which are hammered into the bottom of the planting hole, and elastic twine.
Such support is needed in the first 1-2 years after planting, until the tree is fixed in a new place in a natural way. nine0003
Very often, our customers ask: is it necessary to remove the burlap and wire braid (mesh) from the coma before planting.
Metal braid and burlap serve to maintain the integrity of the coma during transportation and planting, and prevent damage to the roots. In the ground (after planting), the mesh decomposes in 1.5-2 years, burlap - even faster. Therefore, it is not necessary to completely remove the packaging from the coma.
Nevertheless, the mesh tightens the plant ball tightly enough and in order not to impede the growth and respiration of the roots in the first year after planting, we recommend that after planting the plant in the prepared planting hole, carefully cut off the upper third of the wire braid with the help of wire cutters, and also release the root neck and the upper part of the coma from burlap. At the same time, it is very important that the lump remains intact.
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After installing the tree, you need to properly spill the lump so that it is completely saturated with water. This must be done carefully, without eroding the soil. Often water is not poured on anyone by plants, but the pit itself is filled.
After that, you can begin to fill the pit with earth. First, a lump is covered by 1/3 of the height, the soil is carefully compacted and spilled with water. Then the rest of the pit is filled in layers, making sure that there are no voids left. Cavities not filled with earth next to the plant clod, left during inaccurate planting, lead to the drying of the roots and can cause the plant to become depressed, some of the branches to dry out and even die. nine0003
Around each plant, along the perimeter of the planting pit, an earthen roller 10-20 cm high is formed. It serves to retain water during irrigation: so that it does not spread, but penetrates to the roots of the plant.
After planting, the plants are thoroughly watered and the soil is loosened in order to retain moisture.
The trunk circle of plants is recommended to be mulched. Mulch protects the root system from overheating, retains moisture in the soil, and limits the growth of weeds. Wood chips, crushed pine bark, humus and other organic materials can be used as mulch. nine0003
4. Post-planting care
In the first period after planting, the plant is especially carefully cared for: watered, straightened leaning plants, checked tree ties to stakes, poured earth into settled planting pits.
Regular watering in the first year after planting largely ensures a high survival rate. Watering is carried out depending on the weather, on average - at least 1 time per week. Water more frequently in hot weather. In rainy weather, if the plant receives enough moisture, watering is limited. Abundant watering of trees and large shrubs (75-100 liters of water per 1 sq. M) is carried out using a hose. Irrigation with sprinklers is often inefficient, since it provides moisture only to the top layer of soil and is applicable for lawns, flower beds, small shrubs, and water does not reach the roots of large trees, to a depth of 50-60 cm or more.
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Planted plants do not feed until they are properly established. This stimulates the development of a strong and healthy root system.
In the first year after planting, while the plant takes root and adapts, the likelihood of developing diseases increases. Only high-quality, healthy planting material, the choice of the optimal location, the correct timing, planting technology and competent post-planting care are a guarantee that your plants will have sufficient immunity against diseases and pests. nine0003
If you suspect that a plant is affected by pests or diseases, it is important to accurately identify the pathogen and take action. To do this, you need to have a fairly broad knowledge in the field of entomology, phytopathology and plant protection. There are many drugs on the market today, most of which are highly specialized and may be ineffective if the diagnosis is erroneous. You can use special literature, reference guides and advice from garden forums, but it is best to turn to phytopathologists who can give a professional opinion and recommend remedies.
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Features of planting container plants
Container-grown seedlings can be planted from spring to autumn, including summer. However, container-grown plants have their own characteristics: they are grown in a light container substrate, with regular top dressing, they have a very compact and dense root system. In order for such a plant to adapt to the new conditions of your site, more thorough and regular care will be required, especially if you plant in the phase of active shoot growth (end of May - July). nine0003
The container plant needs to be well watered before planting. This will keep the small roots from drying out and make it easier to free the plant from the container.
If, after removing the container, it turns out that the roots of the plant are very elongated and twisted, they must be cut before planting, and straightened to the sides in the planting hole. If the roots are excessively tangled and intertwined, then you can use a knife or a sharp shovel and make shallow notches on the root ball from two opposite sides, removing long roots.
Planting a plant with intertwined roots leads to the formation of an irregular root system, the plant takes root worse and needs support longer. nine0003
In the first season after planting, watering is especially important for container plants. The root system of a plant grown in a light container substrate is very dense and dense, concentrated in a relatively small volume and has a large water absorption capacity. Therefore, immediately after planting, until the roots sprout into the surrounding soil, regular, timely watering is very important for such a plant, which should never dry out.
Features of planting plants with an open root system
Most often, small 2-3 year old fruit trees are planted using this method: apple trees, pears, plums, cherries, as well as unpretentious shrubs in groups and hedges (cotoneaster, derain, etc.).
The planting dates for plants with an open root system are shorter than for plants with a lump - in spring, planting of plants must be completed before bud break (for Moscow and the Moscow region - until the end of April), and in autumn from the beginning of mass leaf fall until the end of October.
To reduce the risk of drying out of the roots, it is advisable to plant plants in cloudy weather. nine0003
The preparation of the seat does not have any features: single holes are dug in accordance with the size of the root system of the plant. If dense groups are planted, it is advisable to prepare common pits in the form of a group. When digging a trench for a hedge, they are guided by the following dimensions: for a single-row hedge (W x D) 0.5x0.5 m, for a two-row hedge - 0.7x0.5 m.
In seedlings, the root system is carefully examined and all damaged and too long roots are cut. nine0003
Before planting, a mound of earth is poured to the bottom of the pit, the plant is placed, gently straightening the roots. When filling a hole, the plant is slightly shaken so that the earth evenly fills the voids between the roots. The poured soil is compacted from the edges of the pit to the center.
The root neck of the planted plant should be 5-10 cm above the soil level, since the earth with which the pit is covered will subsequently settle.
