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Shade shrubs and plants


Shade Loving Shrubs: The Best Bushes To Plant Under Trees

Do you have a tree in your yard and don’t know what to do with the empty space underneath? Well, I’m here to tell you that there are plenty of shade loving shrubs that thrive under trees! In fact, many of them actually require those shady spots in order to grow well. So whether your landscape has full shade or partial shade, read on for some recommendations.

If you’re like me, you have a few trees in your yard and are always looking for plants that will thrive under their shady conditions.

The space between taller trees and low growing perennials lends itself to an array of blooming bushes and interesting foliage plants.

In fact, by growing a variety of shade tolerant shrubs, this shady area is the ideal place for plants that provide all-season interest.

I rely on the glorious flowers of rhododendrons, azalea and mountain laurel in the spring, the magnificence of hydrangeas in the summer, Japanese maple foliage in autumn, and evergreen foliage and bark in the winter.

And those are just a few of the available options. Keep reading to find the best shrubs for shade that you can plant under trees.

Flowering shrubs

When I’m planting in the shade, I’m always looking for ways to add some color that brightens it up a little.

So I love shrubs for shade gardens that have beautiful blooms.

Luckily there are more of them than you might think! Here are some of my favorite flowering shrubs for shade.

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Zones: 5 to 8
Light: Shade to part shade
Bloom Time: Early spring
Height: 3′ to 10′ (depending on the variety)
Spread: 3′ to 10′

Pieris Japonica is a shade tolerant evergreen shrub with leaves that start out red, then change to pink and cream before becoming lime green.

It likes acidic, well drained soil which is characteristic of many of the shrubs that grow well in shade.

Pieris Japonica ‘Forest Flame’

When planted with rhododendrons, azaleas and yews, the bright green leaves add contrast and interest to your garden all year.

In early spring, the stems are crowned with white or pink star-shaped clusters.

Learn more about growing Pieris Japonica HERE.

Buy it HERE*.

Zones: 3 – 11
Light: Full shade to part sun
Bloom Time: Late Spring to Early Summer
Height: 3′ to 12′ tall (depending on the variety)
Spread: 3′ to 12′ tall

Another fabulous late spring/early summer bloomer is the Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia).

It is another one of the evergreens for shade that prefers acidic soil, sheltered conditions, and mulch for moisture retention.

The pink blooms take your breath away with their beauty.

Learn more about growing Mountain Laurel.

Buy it HERE.*

Rhododendron ‘PJM’

Zones: 4 to 9
Light: Shade to part shade
Bloom Time: Spring
Height: 3′ to 12′ (depending on the variety)
Spread: 3′ to 12′

As long as the soil conditions are acidic and regular moisture is provided, rhododendrons are the perfect flowering shrub for the mid-story.  They thrive in the dappled shade under trees, but can grow in full or part shade.

Rhododendrons need shelter from winds and the sun, and require little or no pruning.

Mulch is important to protect the shallow roots and replace nutrients in the soil.

I like the contrast in shape of the broadleaf evergreen leaves among the needled yews.

Rhododendron’s range of colors and spring bloom times provide a succession of fabulous blossom from April to June.

When the early Rhododendrons are covered in magenta or fuchsia flowers, my heart sings and my soul recovers from the blight of winter.

Get some tips on growing Rhododendrons.

Buy them (including the purple one) HERE.*

4 | Azalea

Zones: 2 to 9
Light: Partial shade to sun (depending on the variety)
Bloom Time: Spring, some re-bloom in the Fall
Height: 2′ to 6′ tall
Spread: 2′ to 4′ wide

Azaleas are members of the Rhododendron family and have the same acidic soil and protected growth requirements. And also make the list as one of the best shrubs for shade.

The difference is that azaleas are generally smaller plants and can be either deciduous or evergreen bushes.

Northern Lights Azalea

The Northern Lights series is tough, no care and (as the name suggests) is bred to survive the cold.

Their blossoms precede their leaves in spring and are a joy to behold.

Encore Azalea ‘Autumn Twist’

The Encore series is evergreen and not as hardy, but blooms a second time in the fall.

They are available in a wide range of colors.

‘Bollywood’ Azalea

‘Bollywood’ is an evergreen variety that has variegated leaves with pretty red to fuchsia flowers.

Azalea ‘Gibraltar’  ©Peter Turner Photography – shutterstock.com

And there are even a few Azaleas with bright orange flowers like this one called ‘Gibraltar’ (you can find it HERE*).

In my opinion, no spring garden should be without these bright, glorious flowering shrubs.

Buy them HERE.*

Zones: 4 to 8
Light: Partial shade
Bloom Time: Spring
Height: 3′ to 8′ (depending on the variety)
Spread: 3′ to 6′

Unlike their full-sun cousins (perennial peonies), Tree Peonies (Paeonia suffruticosa) thrive in the dappled shade under trees.

This deciduous flowering shrub likes acidic to neutral soil.

A much tougher plant than it looks, it is definitely low maintenance – requires only regular watering and mulching.

Tree peonies produce huge luncheon plate sized ruffled flowers in mid-spring. I counted 15 blossoms on the tree peony ‘Pluto’ (as seen in the picture above) in my front shade border this year.

Learn more about how to grow tree peonies.

You can find a lot of different varieties for sale (including ‘Pluto’) HERE.

6 | Shade Hydrangeas

Zones: 3 to 9
Light: Partial shade
Bloom Time: Summer to Fall
Height: 3′ to 5′ (depending on the variety)
Spread: 3′ to 5′

Big green leaves and prolific magnificent blooms describe this entry in our shrubs for shade list.

Hydrangeas, as the name (hydra) implies, need to be kept well watered.

They are deciduous bushes that blossom from July through September.

The pruning care requirements are dependent on the type.

Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf, hophead, lacecap, and florist hydrangea) should only have dead and weak stems removed immediately after the blooms fade. Otherwise, it will not flower next year.

It blooms on old wood, so resist the urge to trim the dead looking stems in the spring!

With the exception of the white bloomers, and some new introductions (e.g. ‘pistachio’), the color of Hydrangea macrophylla flowers is dependent on the pH of the soil—blue in acidic and pink in alkaline.

Buy Hydrangea macrophylla HERE.*

©hcast – stock.adobe.com

Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia) is an understory plant indigenous to the southeastern United States and is poplar in the home garden border for its all-season interest.

Its distinctive oak-shaped leaves turn bright red in the fall and the exfoliating bark of its stems is interesting in the winter and early spring.

It likes acidic soil and needs no pruning.

Buy Oakleaf Hydrangea HERE.*

Note: While most Hydrangea varieties do well in the shade, Hydrangea paniculata grows better in the sun, so be sure to check what kind you are buying.

Get some tips on how to get the best blooms from your Hydrangea.

Zones: 6 – 10
Light: Partial shade to shade
Bloom Time: Fall, winter, or spring (depending on the variety)
Height: 18″ to 25′ tall
Spread: 18″ to 8′ wide

Camellias are another of the evergreen shrubs that grow well in the shade.

The big difference with this bush is the time of year that it flowers. Depending on the variety, it can bloom any time between October and April. And those blooms are stunning!

Even better? Once established, Camellias require very little maintenance to keep them healthy.

Learn how to grow Camellias.

Buy them HERE.*

Zones: 5 to 10
Light: Shade to part shade
Bloom Time: Late winter to early spring
Height: 3′ to 5′
Spread: 3′ to 5′

Next on our list of shrubs for shade is Daphne.

Most varieties have evergreen leaves and produce pink or white fragrant blooms in late winter or early spring.

In my garden, it’s one of the plants that lets me know spring is coming. When I open the front door and can smell the Daphne’s perfume (even before I see the flowers), I know winter is almost over!

It can be a little tricky to get started, but once it is established, Daphne is a very low maintenance plant.

Find out more about growing Daphne. 

Buy it HERE.*

9 | Virginia Sweetspire (

Itea virginica)

Zones: 5 to 9
Light: Shade to sun
Bloom Time: Late spring, early summer
Height: 3′ to 8′ (depending on the variety)
Spread: 3′ to 8′

Virginia Sweetspire is a native shrub with long fragrant white flowers (that pollinators love!) and gorgeous autumn foliage in the fall.

It is easy to grow in pretty much any garden conditions – dry, wet, poor soil, shade or sun.

Look for the dwarf variety ‘Little Henry’ if you want one that doesn’t take up a lot of space in your garden.

Buy it HERE.*

10 | Viburnum

Zones: 2 to 9
Light: Partial shade
Bloom Time: Spring
Height: 1′ to 20′
Spread: 6′ to 10′

Viburnum is a very versatile deciduous shrub that always seems to work itself in to my garden plans.

With its huge white blooms that look like snowballs hanging off the branches, it definitely makes a statement!

For planting under trees, look for smaller varieties (such as Korean Spice) that won’t outgrow the space.

Buy it HERE.*

11 | Spotted Laurel (

Aucuba japonica)©simona – stock.adobe.com

Zones: 7 to 9
Light: Shade
Bloom Time: Spring
Height: 6′ to 10′
Spread: 6′ to 10′

Spotted Laurel is a broad leaf evergreen bush that makes a great hedge or back-of-the-border shrub in deep shade.

It produces clusters of maroon flowers in the spring that turn into bright red berries if you have both a male and female version planted together.

But most people grow it because of its beautiful foliage.

Even without the flowers and berries, this shrub’s gorgeous green and yellow leaves add interest to your deep shade garden.

Buy it HERE.*

12 | American Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana)

Zones: 4 to 8
Light: Partial shade
Bloom Time: Late fall to early winter
Height: 10′ to 20′ tall
Spread: 15′ to 20′ wide

American Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) is a large deciduous shrub with clusters of citrus-scented yellow flowers that appear in the late fall and early winter.

As the name suggests, it is a native bush to North America. And like many native plants, it is low maintenance, fairly deer resistant and disease resistant once it is established.

Although Witch Hazel grows quite large naturally, it can be pruned to keep it smaller. This should be done before summer starts to prevent cutting off the buds.

Buy it HERE*.

13 | Red Twig Dogwood (

Cornus Alba)

Zones: 3 to 8
Light: Partial shade to shade
Bloom Time: Spring
Height: 8′
Spread: 8′

The red twig dogwood (Cornus Alba) is a shade loving shrub with very attractive variegated gray-green deciduous leaves that provide a bright light in the shaded border.

It has insignificant small white flowers in the spring, followed by white berries, but the compelling reason to plant this shrub is for the winter interest of its red stems.

It can be most appreciated if planted in front of a window where the splash of red in the snow only needs a cardinal to complete a perfect vignette.

The red twig dogwood can be kept small and brighter by pruning out 1/3 of the old stems in the winter, otherwise, it will reach 8’ tall.

Buy it HERE.*

Foliage Bushes

While flowering bushes are beautiful, to have a lush, relaxing shade garden, shrubs that are known for their foliage are also a must.

With the different leaf textures and colors, they add interest to your yard for the whole growing season.

Zones: 5 to 9
Light: Partial shade
Bloom Time: Foliage only
Height: 6′ to 25′ (depending on the variety)
Spread: 6′ to 25′

Japanese Maples (Acer palmatum) are dwarf trees that create outstanding focal points in the shady border under trees.

My front border is anchored by two other Acers, one at each corner of a curved path.

Although they are different varieties of Japanese maple, the foliage provides focal interest and intense color.

They like dappled shade and do not like to dry out, so provide a deep layer of mulch.

Prune, if necessary, in summer after the leaves are established.

I love the way my cut leaf ‘Crimson Queen’ forms a canopy of scarlet lacy foliage from spring until fall. Even in the winter, the branches arch dramatically.

Find out more about growing Japanese Maples.

Buy them HERE.*

15 | Yews (

Taxus)Yew

Zones: 4 to 9
Light: Partial shade
Bloom Time: Foliage only
Height: 1′ to 25′ (depending on the variety)
Spread: 3′ to 25′

Yews (Taxus) are very reliable drought tolerant evergreens for shade that have inch long needles and red berries in the fall.

Unlike conifers, they don’t mind being pruned, so their size and shape can be easily maintained.

But if you don’t want to do diligent pruning, avoid ‘Hills’,’ Hicks’, and ‘Browns’ yews because they grow too large for a border.

Yews provide all season interest and stand out in the winter garden as a green respite among the deciduous branches.

It should be noted that the berries and needles are poisonous to humans and animals.

Yews generally do not like wet conditions.

Taxus x media ‘Tauntonii’ is a dwarf yew that is perfect: it grows slowly, is very tidy and has a very dark green hue.

Taxus cuspidate ‘emerald spreader’ is another good bright green choice that gets denser if pruned annually.

Taxus Canadensis is a tough, small native shrub that will grow in dense shade.

Buy them HERE.*

16 | Boxwood (

Buxus)

Zones: 4 to 10
Light: Full shade to full sun
Bloom Time: Foliage only
Height: 1′ to 12′ (depending on the variety)
Spread: 2′ to 8′

The next plant on our list of shade shrubs is Boxwood.

We most often associate Boxwood (Buxus) with clipped hedges and balls in formal gardens.

However, it is such an easy plant to grow I think it deserves a place in any kind of border, especially since it is evergreen and grows so well under trees.

Adequate water and 3” of mulch take care of its maintenance needs.

©EDEN – stock.adobe.com

Aesthetically, Buxus looks much better pruned so that its small evergreen leaves become denser.

It grows slowly, so once the desired shape is established it only needs an annual shearing.

Buy it HERE.*

17 | Anise (

Illicium parviflorum)©Arsgera – stock.adobe.com

Zones: 7 to 10
Light: Shade to part shade
Bloom Time: Spring
Height: 5′ to 15′
Spread: 5′ to 10′

The last of our bushes that grow in shade is Anise.

With its heat resistance, yellow-green evergreen leaves and small star-shaped fruit, it’s a stand out in the Southern shade garden.

Anise is an easy to care for bush that likes moist soil but will tolerate some drought once established.

Buy it HERE.*

Other shade plants you might like

Do you have comments or questions on our list of shade loving shrubs? Tell us in the section below.


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This post was originally published on October 20, 2018 but was updated with new content on June 14, 2022.


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30 Low-Maintenance Shrubs for Shade

By

David Beaulieu

David Beaulieu

David Beaulieu is a landscaping expert and plant photographer, with 20 years of experience. He was in the nursery business for over a decade, working with a large variety of plants. David has been interviewed by numerous newspapers and national U.S. magazines, such as Woman's World and American Way.

Learn more about The Spruce's Editorial Process

Updated on 09/09/22

Reviewed by

Kathleen Miller

Reviewed by Kathleen Miller

Kathleen Miller is a highly-regarded Master Gardener and Horticulturist who shares her knowledge of sustainable living, organic gardening, farming, and landscape design. She founded Gaia's Farm and Gardens, a working sustainable permaculture farm, and writes for Gaia Grows, a local newspaper column. She has over 30 years of experience in gardening and sustainable farming.

Learn more about The Spruce's Review Board

Fact checked by

Sarah Scott

Fact checked by Sarah Scott

Sarah Scott is a fact-checker and researcher who has worked in the custom home building industry in sales, marketing, and design.

Learn more about The Spruce's Editorial Process

The Spruce / Catherine Song

Shrubs that grow in shade can add color and cheer to drab nooks as well as canopy-covered areas of your property. Ranging from short bushes to tall hedges, shade-loving shrubbery includes both evergreen and deciduous plants.

Some shade-tolerant shrubs produce beautiful blossoms, while others are famous for their attractive foliage. Many offer year-round appeal, making them perfect for shady yards where sun-loving plants simply cannot thrive.

Learn about 30 low-maintenance shrubs that will spruce up shaded areas of your lawn and garden without a lot of effort.

Low-Maintenance Shrubs for Shade

Watch Now: Tips for Selecting the Right Shrubs

Article Sources

The Spruce uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy.

  1. A Dangerous Garden Thug Exposed: Daphne Laureola. Master Gardeners Association of British Columbia.

  2. Labossiere Alexander W., Thompson Dennis F. Clinical Toxicology of Yew Poisoning. Annals of Pharmacotherapy, vol. 52, no. 6, pp. 591-599, 2018. doi:10.1177/1060028017754225

  3. Amelanchier alnifolia. Missouri Botanical Garden.

  4. Hamamelis virginiana. Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, University of Texas.

  5. Red Buckeye. University of Kentucky, Department of Horticulture.

  6. Japanese Skimmia. Washington State University Extension PNW Plants.

How to protect conifers from spring burns?

Dear readers, today we will consider one of the most frequently asked questions: how to protect our coniferous plants from spring burns? In this article, we give the main recommendations that you need to follow and will talk mainly about shelter.

Remember that with severe burns, the plant may die! The main purpose of the shelter is to protect from exposure to sunlight, and not to insulate. Therefore, if you did not have time to make a shelter in the fall, it's time to do it now.

In order to avoid damage to coniferous plants in the winter-spring period and avoid burns, two basic conditions must be met:

1) Reduce water loss;

2) Reduce the temperature of the plant.

If in the autumn you followed our recommendations and carried out water-charging irrigation, fed the plants with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, then you have already partially solved this problem.

Sunburn on coniferous trees is a common problem in many regions of Russia, including our Northwest. The end of February, the beginning of March is the time when the sun's rays become more active. There is a threat of sunburn on coniferous plants (arborvitae, cypresses, Canadian spruces, junipers). The process of photosynthesis “wakes up” in the needles, but the moisture present in the tissues of the plants is quickly consumed, and its replacement from the frozen soil is still impossible, so the needles become dehydrated and dry out. This process is called physiological withering , and a burn from the sun's rays, enhanced by the reflection from the snow, is also superimposed on it.

Plants planted on the site of the southern, southeastern and southwestern sides, on heavy soils, near the white wall of a building or fence are at greater risk. At risk are plantings of the current and last year, which have not yet adapted to the characteristics of the garden. Plants with tender needles and young varietal plants suffer greatly (species are usually more resistant).

It is better to throw covering material on pre-prepared frames or screens exposed from the south, southeast, southwest side. They will protect the plants from contact with the covering material during temperature changes, improve air exchange, and thereby protect against damping off.

What materials are best used to protect conifers from sunburn? For shelter, you can use burlap, gauze, mesh.

Please note that materials such as spunbond (Lutrasil ) accumulate heat too much and the plant may suffer from overheating and prop up. The shoots are, as if in a greenhouse, and under the influence of the baking sun, they wake up even earlier and burn more strongly. When choosing such a material, pay attention to its density, it must be at least 60 g / m 2 . Be sure to make cuts in the fabric for air circulation.

Our gardeners use 55 g/m 9 shading net0031 2 dark green, stretching it over a frame of bamboo supports. Wall mesh diffuses and reflects the sun's rays, does not heat up and does not accumulate heat. Also, its great advantage is water-air permeability and wear resistance. To shelter coniferous plants from a burn, it is better to choose a mesh from 50 to 75% shading. The color of the mesh is most often green or dark green. Nylon mesh is more resistant to moisture and UV rays than polypropylene mesh. The percentage of shading in a nylon mesh directly depends on the density, that is, on the number of interlaced threads (6, 8, 12, etc.), while in propylene mesh it depends on the color: the darker the color, the higher the percentage of shading. You can use the net in different ways: directly cover the plant, stretch the net on the frame above the plant or on the frame.

Very good results have been obtained with jute burlap . It must also be carefully attached to the frame. In no case do not use polypropylene burlap and polyethylene film for shelter.

Perhaps someone is not satisfied with this method of hiding, as it may seem unaesthetic. In this case, you can use another method of protection: spraying on the needles with special compounds that form a film and prevent the evaporation of moisture from their needles. For this, drugs such as Purshat-O are suitable. One or two treatments are carried out in October - November, but can be carried out if necessary in the extreme period in February and March. The best results were shown by processing in dry, calm weather at a temperature not lower than -2 ̊ C.

Another technique that we recommend to carry out in late March - early April is to shed the near-stem circle with warm water 38-40 ̊ C. This will contribute to the early awakening of the root system, which is especially important for plants planted no more than two years ago. For 1-2 weeks, every two to three days, pour up to two buckets of water under each plant.

Attention should also be paid to plants with a compact crown, which is completely under the snow. During spring temperature changes, an ice crust forms over them, which does not allow air to pass through. As a result, a greenhouse effect is created, in which the plant can support. Therefore, we recommend that the ice crust be destroyed regularly.

In mid-late April, when the soil thaws to the depth of a spade bayonet, and the roots of the plant are already able to extract water from it, desiccation and burns are no longer dangerous and then the shelter can be removed.

If in the spring you find that after all, some plant has “burned” with you, do not be upset ahead of time and do not rush to cut off the damaged branches. There is a whole season for the plant to come out, providing it with special care. Immediately after the snow melts, begin active watering and pouring water on the crowns of the affected plants. When temperatures are set above +10̊ C, be sure to spray the needles with preparations such as Epin and Ribav. Also, a positive result was shown by "Ecoberin" in combination with another drug - "Healthy Garden". You can also use Zircon and HB-101. Usually 2-3 treatments are sufficient. Dilute the preparations according to the instructions, carry out the processing in dry, calm, cloudy weather.

If the situation is critical, then the drug can be injected under the cortex or into the trunk. To do this, a thin hole is drilled in the lower part of the trunk, 4–5 cm deep at an angle of 45 degrees. Then dilute the HB-101 preparation according to the instructions and inject the entire solution into the hole with a syringe. As a rule, this method is very effective, but still more suitable for professionals.

Remember, if you provide plants with help and protection from adverse environmental factors in a timely manner, they will thank you with an elegant and healthy look. Read about the basic rules for caring for coniferous plants, as well as more resistant species and varieties of coniferous crops for our region, on our blog.


How to choose your bed cover

16.02.2022

Recently, many different covering materials have appeared on the market. So that you do not get lost in all this diversity, we have prepared a great guide for you.

Types of covering materials


Application of covering materials

Covering material has its own tasks in each season:

Non-woven fabric

Non-woven covering material consists of polypropylene fibers that are glued together under high temperature.

Pros

Cons

Types of materials

White material with a density of 17–30 g/m² protects plants outdoors from strong sun and spring night frosts, helps to organize a special microclimate for growth and development. In addition, it protects planting from birds and insects. Cover shrubs, berries, vegetables, fruits, and ornamental plants in open ground.

White material 42-50 g/m² is suitable for making a greenhouse cover.

White material 60 g/m² is used as a cover for greenhouse frame. It will protect plants from hail, rain, frost and sunburn.

Black 60 g/m² is used for mulching furrows or plantings and for weed control. It can also be perforated, with special holes for shoots. The black material conducts moisture well to the soil, but does not allow sunlight to pass through to the weeds, which is why they die.

Foil will help plants get more light and protect them from frost. Light passes through the non-woven material: one part hits the plant, and the other part is reflected from the foil, and the beam returns to the leaves. As a result, the seedlings receive maximum light.

Red-yellow and red-white materials will protect against pests and accelerate plant growth, as well as retain more heat than white counterparts.

Reinforced is strong yet breathable. With it, you will create a high-strength shelter for the frames of greenhouses and greenhouses.

Needle-punched fabric is made from synthetic fibers held together by multiple mechanical needle punching. The finished material has a loose structure, but despite this, it is quite durable. It is usually used to protect ornamental and fruit shrubs in winter.

Material with a density of 120 g/m² or more is used for landscaping. For example, to separate soil layers, protect imported land from being washed out, prevent mixing of decorative filling with soil, strengthen slopes or prevent weeds from sprouting on garden paths, lawns and rock gardens.

Select nonwoven fabric

Jute

Jute cloth is a unique natural covering material. The fiber for its manufacture is produced from shrubs of the linden family. It allows air to flow freely to the plant, transmits and scatters the sun's rays, removes excess moisture.

Jute is commonly used to cover roses and shrubs for the winter so they can survive frosty days.

Pros

Cons

Select Jute

Coir

This covering material is made from coconut fibres. They are pressed under high pressure - a dense breathable material is obtained. It is produced in the form of a canvas or tree trunks of various sizes and is used for mulching.

Pros