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Pruning dwarf cherry trees


Pruning Cherry Trees - Stark Bro's

Pruning is a very important part of proper cherry tree care and maintenance; however, many people think the task overwhelming. It doesn’t have to be! Keep these things in mind when you set out to prune your cherry trees:

NOTE: This is part 8 in a series of 11 articles. For a complete background on how to grow cherry trees, we recommend starting from the beginning.

Survival

When your cherry tree is dug up from our fields to be shipped to you, and any time a tree is transplanted, the root ball loses many of its fine feeder roots. These hair-like, delicate roots are important to the process of absorbing moisture and nutrients in the soil. Pruning, in this instance, helps balance the top growth of your tree with the root system, giving the roots time to re-establish in your yard to support existing top growth and new growth.

When your bare-root cherry tree arrives from Stark Bro’s, our professionals have already pre-pruned your tree for you. Because of this, you do not need to prune it again at planting time. The only pruning necessary at that time would be to remove any broken or damaged branches and/or roots.

Plan to prune your cherry trees every year during their dormant season. In Zone 6 and north, you should wait until late winter. A good reference book, such as Pruning Made Easy, can be invaluable for providing additional visuals and answering questions you may have during the pruning process.

Stimulation

In addition to the survival benefits, pruning an cherry tree stimulates stronger, more vigorous growth from the remaining buds. After a single growing season, a cherry tree you prune will be bigger, with stronger branching than a similar, unpruned cherry tree.

Shape and Structure

Equally as important to the benefits above, your cherry tree needs to be pruned to provide a strongly structured shape. The natural shape a cherry tree takes on is not always the best for its maximum fruit production. Stark Bro’s cherry trees are pruned in the nursery row for proper shaping to get you started and corrective pruning must continue at home. If you keep up with your pruning and shaping each year, it will be a reasonable task mostly involving small, easy-to-heal cuts.

Always prune sweet cherry trees to a “Central Leader” or “Main Leader”. This structure encourages scaffold development, which supports the canopy and keeps the fruit from becoming overexposed to the sun and other elements. Pie/Sour/Tart cherry trees can be pruned to a modified central leader or more of an “Open Center” or “Vase-Shaped” structure. This structure keeps the canopy open to light and air circulation, which helps protect fruit and sustain quality.

Pruning Tips

Pruning angles

Narrow, V-shape crotch angles in the limbs are an open invitation to disastrous splitting later on, particularly when your cherry tree is supporting a large fruit crop. For your tree’s branches, choose wide 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock angles.

Pruning to a bud

Make sharp, clean cuts close enough (about ¼-inch away from the next outward-pointing bud) so you won’t leave a clumsy stub that’s hard to heal over. Stay far enough above the bud so it won’t die back. Slant the cuts and the new growth will develop beautifully.

Every branch has buds pointed in various directions. Because you want vigorous new growth to spread out and away from the center of the tree, make your cut above a bud that’s aimed outward. These are usually located on the underside of the branch. This helps your cherry tree develop a solid structure, keeping it strong and productive for years.

Pruning Whips (Unbranched Trees)

Unbranched cherry trees are ideal if you want more control over which branches are allowed to develop — as you might in certain artful pruning styles like espalier. Prune whips back to 28- to 36-inches above the ground at planting time. After the new branches have grown 3 to 5 inches in length, select a shoot to become the leader and the rest become the tree’s scaffold limbs.

Off-season Pruning

Sometimes pruning needs to be done even when the season isn’t ideal. If a branch is broken by the wind or by a heavy load of fruit, emergency treatment is necessary. When taking action due to injury, prune to clean up any ragged edges; making a flush cut that leaves no stub.

It does not benefit the cherry tree to wait until dormancy to prune damaged, dead, or diseased limbs or to remove unwanted growth like suckers and watersprouts. These should all be completely removed as soon as you see them.

Fruit-Thinning

There are several good reasons to thin fruit:

Home gardeners can effectively thin cherry trees by hand if needed. During the spring, cherry trees may will start to drop or abort underripe fruit. This is a natural process that allows the tree to mature the remaining crop load. If not corrected through thinning, cherry trees may bear biennially (fruits only every other year) or bear heavily one year, then bear a comparatively light crop the next year. Thinning may seem counterproductive in theory, but it really is a benefit to your cherry harvest in the long run.

How to Prune Dwarf Fruit Trees

Fine Gardening Project Guides

Given the challenges of true dwarfing rootstocks (toppling and high moisture needs), many gardeners may choose a variety with a semi-dwarfing rootstock instead. That can be a good move. Semi-dwarfing rootstocks seldom control fruit tree size as much as you’d expect, though, and pruning is the only way to ensure a tree stays under 12 feet tall.

Rootstock of a fruit tree before planting (left).  Graft point of the fruit tree kept above the soil level (right).

Following the pruning steps below during the first year will give your tree an easily maintained structure for the future. In subsequent years, follow regular winter pruning techniques for your fruit tree, removing broken, diseased, crossed, or damaged branches. Each summer, keep your tree compact and manageable with summer pruning (cutting new growth back by half). If your tree is particularly vigorous, do a late spring pruning (cutting new growth back by half) as well.

1. At the initial planting time, your tree should be topped between 2 and 4 feet above the ground using a heading cut. This will force low scaffold limbs to form.

2. After its first spring flush, new, leafy branches should be cut back by half.

3. In late summer, your young tree should get its first summer pruning, with the newest growth (promoted by the early spring pruning) again cut back by half.

 

To learn more about growing dwarf fruit trees, check out How to Grow Dwarf Fruit Trees.

Fionuala Campion is the owner and manager of Cottage Gardens of Petaluma in Petaluma, California.

Illustrations: Lyn Alice

 

Next: Deciduous Fruit Tree Pruning Primer

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Guide

Pruning

Chapter

Fruits

Should I do it?

Cherry pruning is needed because:

Important! nine0390 The statement that early-ripening cherry varieties can not be pruned is wrong! If you do not prune, then after 12-15 years, fruiting can stop abruptly.

How often can I do it?

Cherry grows quickly, young shoots develop rapidly. The frequency of pruning depends on the type of crop (tree, shrub), variety and age.

Young growth (2-4 years old) needs thinning of the crown and the formation of a "skeleton" (removal of extra branches). They need only one procedure per year (preferably in the spring). nine0003

On mature trees (5-7 years old) the crown is very dense, it must be cut at least twice a year (spring, autumn). Dry branches are already beginning to appear on cherries older than 7 years, which should be removed immediately upon detection.

First-year seedlings must not be touched , they must be allowed to adapt to the place. If there is a need to cut off branches that are too low, it is better to do this for the next season.

Expert opinion

Yulia Safronenko

Big fan of experiments and personal methods in gardening

Ask a question

Shrubs and individual varieties of trees (eg dwarf cherries) are very branchy. They need to be cut more often so that the plant bears abundant fruit.

Preparing for the procedure

Before pruning, the following steps must be taken:

  1. Prepare the garden pitch for processing the cuts. You can make it yourself or purchase a ready-made antiseptic in the store.
  2. Assess the scope of work and check that all tools and supplies needed for the process are available. nine0008
  3. Clear the area around of debris, branches and old knots so as not to interfere with work. Remove the shoots near the trunk of the cherry.
  4. Sanitizing for diseases and pests can be done before or after pruning. For this, a solution of urea (5%) or another agent is perfect.

Tools and garden tools

Tools must be reliable and well sharpened . Cuts must be made even, without "whiskers" and torn edges, so as not to injure the plant. nine0003

For proper pruning you will need:

  • garden saw (or hacksaw) for cutting thick branches;
  • secateurs for shortening or removing thin shoots;
  • delimber, which is convenient to cut branches of medium thickness and shoots near the trunk;
  • stepladder for thinning and shortening the crown tops of mature trees;
  • paint brush for finishing cuts with garden pitch.

Work with gloves, it is better to choose models from dense tarpaulin, leather or latex. nine0389 Before starting work, the entire set must be disinfected . Otherwise, juice may remain on the blade after cutting off infected areas. At the end, the tool must be processed again.

General rules

It is important to observe the following rules:

  1. Carefully inspect the tree. First of all, remove dry branches and those that are broken or obviously sick. They prevent the cherry from developing normally, and "pull" useful juices and substances onto themselves. nine0008
  2. Check the branches for tops. These are thick shoots growing vertically. They need to be cut using the "ring" method. Old branches are also cut down near the trunk with an indent of 2-4 cm (so that the trunk does not crack and a hollow does not appear in it).
  3. Lower branches must not be lower than 80 cm from the ground. Shoots growing at the roots also need to be removed.
  4. The top of the trunk must be trimmed regularly. So the cherry will not grow unnecessarily high, and will give strength to the development of side branches and active fruiting. nine0008
  5. Branches growing "towards the trunk" or intertwining with each other must be cut to the base.

Upon completion of work, sections must be treated with an antiseptic or garden pitch.

Attention! All cut branches should be burned (to prevent re-infestation by pests or diseases).

Methods of application

Expert opinion

Chernyaeva Tatyana Dmitrievna

Madly in love with gardening and grows only organic vegetables

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Pruning for rejuvenation is undesirable to carry out at one time. Correctly done in stages over 2-3 years. Then the cherry easily adapts to a new state, and there will be no risk of gum disease (a disease that is accompanied by the release of a sticky liquid from the bark).

How do you know when it's time?

Ideally, the procedure should be carried out annually . Signals for unscheduled pruning:

Do you carry out unscheduled cherry pruning?

Yes No

When is the best time to do it?

Many novice gardeners have questions - is it better to do it in spring or autumn and is it pruned in summer, during fruiting? The most favorable periods for the procedure are early spring and late autumn . But if necessary, you can cut the cherry in other seasons. nine0003

Spring

Optimal time for the procedure. In regions with a warm climate, pruning can be done already at the beginning of March, in the northern regions - in the middle or end of April.

The main condition is to have time before the start of active vegetation, when the buds have already appeared and are just beginning to swell.

All types of pruning can be carried out in spring, including rejuvenation. Shoots that are damaged by frost should be cut to the first swollen bud . If you prune cherries properly in the spring, a young and healthy plant will not need pruning until the next season. nine0003

Video about spring cherry pruning:

Summer

This is a period of active growth, development and fruiting of the crop. Pruning at this time should be done with extreme caution. The process of sap flow is in full swing, and cherries are especially vulnerable. Rough intervention can do much harm.

In summer, it is allowed to cut off infected and diseased branches, as well as remove dried ones . It is better to postpone all other procedures until the fall, when the vegetation process ends. nine0003

Autumn

When the vegetative season has passed and the cherry tree has shed its leaves, pruning can be done. It is necessary to have time before the onset of the first frost, otherwise the cut branches will freeze and begin to dry out. In the southern regions and in the middle lane, autumn pruning is carried out in early / mid-November, in the northern regions, cherries are pruned already in September.

In autumn, you need to remove branches that prevent the tree from actively developing - crossed among themselves, growing at an acute angle, dry and diseased shoots. Thinning, pruning thin shoots and rejuvenation are best left until spring. If you cut off young branches, the onset of frost can destroy them. nine0003

Autumn pruning can be done on cherries 2 years old and older. First-year seedlings should not be touched on the eve of winter.

Winter pruning

Winter pruning is allowed on mature cherries (6 years and older). It must be carried out at t not lower than -6 ° C, when there is no wind and precipitation.

In winter, form a crown and remove excess skeletal and side branches . Frozen processes are easier to saw, cuts are more even.

In cold weather, the cherry rests, the sap flow stops, and it easily tolerates the procedure. The main condition is that the tree must be strong and healthy. At the end, it is necessary to cover all sections with garden pitch. nine0003

Annual crown formation

Annual pruning is necessary for the full development of the plant. It consists of several steps :

  1. Remove dry, broken and diseased branches first.
  2. Cut lower branches growing below 80 cm from the base.
  3. Cut off all unnecessary branches and shoots that “steal” nutrients from the cherry - branches growing towards the trunk, intertwining with each other and shoots that do not have buds. nine0008
  4. Cut off the top of a tree higher than 3 m if the trunk (guide) extends more than 20 cm from the top layer of branches.
  5. Remove skeletal branches that grow towards the ground and could warp or break the cherry.
  6. At the last stage, it is necessary to thin out the crown moderately so that the fruitful shoots do not suffer.

Tip! Do not forget about watering, fertilizing the soil and processing from parasites! This care complex, together with annual pruning, guarantees longevity and high yields for cherries. nine0003

Scheme of removal of branches depending on the type of tree

Cherry is bushy and tree-like. Each of these species includes its subspecies of different varieties with their own nuances. You need to trim them correctly, given the structure and features.

Bush

In this crop, fruits are set only on annual shoots . If such a process is cut off, then the entire branch may begin to dry out. Correct pruning should be carried out as follows:

  1. Remove dry and broken branches immediately. nine0008
  2. Skeletal and lateral branches to be cut to the first bud.
  3. Bare branches are cut to 1/3 of the full length.
  4. When forming the crown, in addition to the main conductor, there should be 8-10 skeletal branches, the excess ones are removed.
  5. Pruning in stages - one year shorten the skeletal branches, and the next year prune the lateral and semi-skeletal branches.
  6. On the crown, leave those branches that are directed outward (intertwined and growing deep must be cut).

Shrubs grow densely in summer, so it is necessary to thin them out in autumn. A young plant less than half a meter tall is not pruned .

Tree-like

Flower (fruitful) buds of tree-like cherries are formed on annual shoots and bouquet branches. If, after fruiting, such a shoot is cut, a new bouquet branch will grow in its place and will bear fruit. Cherry pruning of this type should be carried out as follows:

  1. The skeleton is formed according to a sparse-tiered system, when a young cherry has 5-6 skeletal branches, an adult tree has 8-9, the rest are cut down "on the ring".
  2. Strongly regrown lateral branches are pruned, and if they grow at an acute angle, removed.
  3. Annual shoots are cut to 25-30 cm, so that later new fruitful bouquet branches appear in this place.
  4. Make sure that the side branches are approximately the same length.
  5. The top is trimmed to limit height.
  6. Branches growing too low to the roots are cut down.

Shoots shorter than 20 cm must not be touched, otherwise they will dry out . As the tree “mature”, it is necessary to carry out sanitary pruning and rejuvenation.

Dwarf

In the second year after planting, young cherries are molded. It is necessary to define the conductor and leave 6-8 skeletal branches on it . Lateral branches are cut to a length of 40-45 cm from the soil. In subsequent years of development, it is necessary to cut off broken branches and weak shoots, remove knots.

In spring, thin out the crown and remove intertwining branches and shoots growing at an acute angle. Shrubs older than 7 years must be rejuvenated pruning. nine0003

Columnar

Distinctive features of this species are a powerful trunk and lateral branches with fairly short shoots. Columnar cherries are pruned according to the following scheme:

  1. In the first year after planting, you need to cut off the top and trim the side branches.
  2. For 2-4 years, the side branches are shortened again, thin shoots are cut to the bud, and the top is also cut (to slow down growth in height and increase yield).
  3. In subsequent years, you need to remove branches growing towards the trunk, tops and thin out the crown as necessary. nine0008

Useful information! Felt cherry has no thickening shoots and does not need pruning of skeletal branches. It is enough for her once a year to slightly thin out the crown, and on mature trees to remove dry branches in time. Annual branches are fruitful, they can not be cut.

How to cut correctly?

Seedling

Immediately after planting, the seedling needs time to adapt . If it has a lot of low-growing branches, they can be cut off. But only in the spring, after the first buds swell. In other cases, it is better to postpone the shaping of the skeleton until next spring. nine0003

Young tree

Young cherries need form pruning. It should be carried out as follows:

  1. Leave 5-6 skeletal branches, cut off the extra branches “on the ring”.
  2. Remove unnecessary shoots at the top so that the crown is formed correctly and beautifully.
  3. If the tree (or bush guide) is actively growing in height, cut the top off carefully.

After pruning, the young cherry should have 12-15 main branches, and the crown should rise 10-15 cm from the upper tier. nine0003

Fruiting

When cherries are actively fruiting, the skeletal branches may become bare. Then they are cut off by 1/3 of the entire length. This is necessary to “support” the plant and prolong its fruiting period.

One-year-old shoots weaken during this period, so they are cut at least . It is necessary to choose such processes where there are the least kidneys. In autumn, it is necessary to cut off excess branches near the top, which disrupt air circulation and obscure the crown.

Old

Trees aged 8 years and older must not be cut with annual shoots . Mature trees and shrubs need to be rejuvenated and sanitary pruned. Cut off excess branches and thin out better in early spring. Dry and broken branches should be carefully removed as needed.

Tips for beginner gardeners

Beginners will benefit from advice from experienced gardeners :

It is also important to know the variety of your cherry in order to understand which shoots are fruitful. Then pruning will be really effective and will only bring benefits.

Conclusion

Proper pruning of young cherries ensures a beautiful shape of the plant and directs useful juices to its full development. Annual pruning promotes abundant fruiting . Sanitary and anti-aging procedures prolong the life of an adult tree for many years.

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