Milk paint on furniture
Easy Steps on How to Paint with Milk Paint on Furniture
Here is a tutorial on how to paint with milk paint using the best milk paint brand on the market. Do you know that yummy old fashioned milk paint finish on furniture at Grandma's house? Well, that look is achieved with real milk paint furniture look.
HOW TO PAINT WITH MILK PAINT
How to paint with milk paint is much easier than it looks.
There are so many milk paint brands out in the world, but I like Miss Mustard Seed's paint over others. I will share more about why I think it is the best milk paint brand on the market at the bottom of this post.
Update: Three years have passed since I painted this chair and the finish has not chipped and still looks beautiful.
Her paint has a long shelf life because it comes in natural paint powder form and is nontoxic. And her milk paint colors are AMAZING! There is a variety of colors to choose from that create that farmhouse vibe. Make sure to store this powder form paint at room temperature.
This post contains affiliate links, which means I receive a commission if you purchase at no cost to you using the links below. All opinions are all my own.
Check out this roundup we did of furniture transformed with Miss Mustard Seed milk paint colors for some great ideas.
But instead of me trying to convince you about MMS paint follow along as I take you through a tutorial on how to paint with milk paint.
WINDSOR CHAIR STORY
Long before I decided to try out natural paint, I found this beat-up Windsor chair on the side of the road along with its twin sister. One chair gave its life for the other by giving up some of its parts to make the other one whole.
So now it is going to get a natural paint transformation and here are the steps, so you too can transform a piece of furniture with milk paint.
1. SANDING THE CHAIR
The old finish on this chair is not level and needs a little prep work. If your old furniture is like mine start with sanding. I like to use180-200 grit sandpaper on a sponge block. A sponge block allows the sandpaper to mold around the edges. And boy, there are many edges on a Windsor chair.
The most important thing is to sand any areas where the paint is coming up. Make sure to get the area smooth. I like to run my hand across it and feel it to see if it is smooth after I sand it. It helps me to determine if I have it level.
2. WIPING OFF THE GRIT FROM THE SANDPAPER
Now the next step is relatively easy. Just dampen a paper towel and wipe down the chair. Make sure the paper towel is barely damp.
Also, if your chair is dirty go ahead and give it a washing. Then let it dry real good before the next step.
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3. PRIMER
In the world of milk paint, you do not always have to do prep work or use primer, but in my case, this chair's existing finish was peeling and shiny. It was recommended to me by Jennifer at Eight Hundred Furniture to add in a primer step.
I am so glad she recommended this because not only did it help the paint adhere to the chair but the primer helped block the black color from running through the natural paint.
So if you need a primer to consider look at Kilz 2 or Extreme Bond Primer by Sherwin Williams, I have to say the Extreme Bond Primer worked like a charm.
Because this chair is black and milk paint is thin, you will probably need to add two coats of primer.
4. MIXING MILK PAINT
Before we dive into mixing the paint, you're probably asking where to buy milk paint? Well, you can purchase it on Amazon or go to Miss Mustard Seeds Website to find a list of retailers that might be close to you.
Okay, so now on to mixing the paint. Remember me saying that MMS paint has a long shelf life. Well, it comes in powder form, so you need to mix it. But please don't procrastinate on this step because it is super, super easy.
For my chair, I mixed a 1/4 cup of Ironstone milk powder, 1/4 cup of water and 1/4 cup of bonding agent.
Start mixing the milk powder and a small amount of water first and as you stir keep adding water. Give it a good stir until you feel like all the clumps have dissolved. Then add your bonding agent. It is kind of like a runny glue and mixes in very easily.
See learning how to paint with natural paint is pretty easy.
Now let the paint sit for about 5 minutes. The paint sitting helps it to thicken a little, and now you are ready to paint.
5. PAINTING WITH MILK PAINT
Painting the natural paint was a little more tricky than expected. For the first coat of paint lightly add some paint to the end of your brush and tap it on the edge of the cup to move the paint downward.
Then apply it to the chair working from the top and moving your way down. Make sure to check for drips as you go. I worked on the drips with a dryer brush.
Natural paint is pretty forgiving so if you miss a drip go back over it with no problem. However, if you let the drip sit too long, it will want to stay for a while. So continually give all the edges a good look for those pesky drips.
Also, keep your stir stick in the cup while you are painting and stir it now and then to keep it blended.
Another detail I want to share is the brush I used. For the primer, I used the cheap wood handle brush. But for the paint, I went with the short handle Wooster synthetic brush. I found it help onto the paint easier and moved the paint onto the chair nicely.
6. ONE COAT OF MILK PAINT
Here is an example of how one coat of Ironstone paint looks. It is a lovely matte finish. As you can see I need to add another layer.
7. SECOND COAT OF MILK PAINT
Now add another coat of paint after letting the first coat dry for an hour or so. It doesn't take long for the paint to dry so you can add another layer. Here is a photo of the second coat and honestly I think it dries less and less transparent. How to paint with milk paint is truly so easy!
8. Apply Top Coat (optional)
After you finish you can add a top coat of furniture wax or tough coat liquid form in a thin layer. This will give it a harder smooth finish and make the chair more water-resistant. The more thin layers you add the tougher the finish.
I added the tough coat to my chair. Tough Coat is a much harder finish and is even more durable. I love this tough coat product because it is self-leveling and non-yellowing.
Once I added this top coat I let it dry for 24 hours before I sat anything on the piece of furniture.
FINISHED PRODUCT
I have to say I have fallen in love with the Miss Mustard Seed milk paint. Teaching you all how to paint with milk paint was so easy thanks to Jennifer and Miss Mustard Seeds videos on YouTube.
I cannot get over how beautiful this chair is now.
The natural paint color we used is Ironstone. It is a beautiful creamy white!
The chair is so pretty until all I wanted to do was style it instead of sitting in it. Just happens I got this candle and pillow recently so I think it has found a new home for a while until the chair will end up at my daughters' desk.
Last I said I would share more about this wonderful paint. Here are common questions I get about milk paint.
What ingredients are in milk paint?
The main ingredients in milk paint consist of milk protein, lime (calcium carbonate), pigments (pigment powders), and borax as a preservative but Miss Mustard Seed's milk paint has natural ingredients of milk protein, chalk, clay, limestone, and natural pigments. Her paint is true natural paint and has a very long shelf life because it comes in powder form. Milk paints are generally non-toxic but check your ingredients just in case.
What is easier to use milk paint or chalk paint?
Chalk paint is easier to use because you don't have to mix it and it has self-leveling qualities. However, milk paint gives a gorgeous finish and is much easier to get a farmhouse chippy look. I recommend making sure your surface is sanded smooth first and primed if you use natural paint.
If you want to learn more about chalk paint try my how to paint with chalk paint post. And if you are looking for more farmhouse paint colors try these paint colors at Life on Summerhill.
Is milk paint good for furniture?
Milk paint is great for furniture. You can paint it directly on raw wood or over a painted finish. I do recommend sanding and priming first to get a more flawless finish but if you are wanting an aged look skip the sanding and primer. Milk paint furniture gives the most beautiful look!
CONCLUSION
Overall I highly recommend the Miss Mustard Seed's milk paint. There are many beautiful paint colors to choose from like Eulalie's Sky, French Enamel, Layla's Mint, and Aviary. I have not tried other milkpaint brands, but MMS seems to be of good quality and I have heard General Finishes milk paint is good too. And it's the best milk paint furniture brand.
MILK PAINT FURNITURE PAINTING TIPS
I did run out of paint towards the end. I grabbed a tablespoon of powder, water and bonding agent and mixed up some more right in the jar I was using.
Also, let me encourage you to put the piece of furniture on a table. It saves your back and because the chair is elevated it is easier to see the drips.
And last, don't forget a drop cloth. You will for sure need it for this project because this paint is drippy. Or at least my paint was drippy. Haha!
Here is a recap of the steps on how to paint with milk paint over a painted piece of furniture.
- Begin by sanding over the existing paint. Paint carefully in areas where the existing paint is coming up
- Remove dust from sanding with a damp paper towel or tack cloth (clean the chair if needed at this step)
- Brush on primer starting at the top and move your way down
- Add another coat of primer if the first coat of milk paint doesn't cover well
- Mix paint and add the bonding agent
- Brush first layer milk paint onto chair working from the top and move down (watch for drips)
- Brush the second layer of milk paint if needed. Most likely you will need two unless you like the look
I hope you have enjoyed this DIY and I hope you try out milk-paint to get that delicious vintage painted look. What are you considering painting?
Since this post went live we have lived with our natural painted chair for a while now. The paint has stayed on the piece of furniture beautifully. I have no complaints and only good things to say about MMS paint. I do believe it is the best milk paint brand.
Happy Decorating!
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Prep Time 30 minutes
Active Time 2 hours
Additional Time 1 day
Total Time 1 day 2 hours 30 minutes
Difficulty Easy
Estimated Cost 40.00
Materials
- Milk Paint
- Primer
- Bonding agent
- Furniture wax or tough coat liquid form
Tools
- 180-200 grit sandpaper on a sponge block
- Paper towels
- Wood handle paint brush
- Synthetic paint brush
Instructions
- Sand any areas where the paint is coming up. Make sure to get the area smooth.
- Dampen a paper towel and wipe down the chair. Make sure the paper towel is barely damp.
- If your chair is dirty go ahead and give it a washing. Then let it dry real good before the next step.
- You do not always have to do prep work or use primer, but if the surface finish is peeling and shiny you may want to. Apply one or two coats using an inexpensive wood handle paint brush.
- Next, you'll mix the milk paint. Start mixing the milk powder and a small amount of water first and as you stir keep adding water. Give it a good stir until you feel like all the clumps have dissolved. Then add your bonding agent. It is kind of like a runny glue and mixes in very easily. Let the paint sit for about 5 minutes to thicken.
- For the first coat of paint, lightly add some paint to the end of your brush and tap it on the edge of the cup to move the paint downward. I recommend using a synthetic paint brush which will be easier and move the paint onto the furniture nicely.
- Apply the paint working from the top and moving your way down. Make sure to check for drips as you go.
- Keep your stir stick in the cup while you are painting and stir it now and then to keep it blended.
- Let the first coat dry for an hour and add another coat of paint if desired.
- After you finish you can add a top coat of furniture wax or tough coat liquid form in a thin layer.
- Let it dry for 24 hours before placing anything on the furniture.
Notes
- Put the piece of furniture on a table. It saves your back and because the chair is elevated it is easier to see the drips.
- If you let a drip sit too long, it will want to stay for a while. So continually give all the edges a good look for those pesky drips.
- Don't forget a drop cloth. You will for sure need it for this project because this paint is drippy.
Here's How And Why You Should Do It
Skip to contentOne of the greatest things about milk paint is that you can achieve such an incredible range of looks and finishes with the medium. Suitable for numerous projects on porous surfaces indoors and out, milk paint like Real Milk Paint offers smooth, even coverage that stays put on old furniture and is safe for kids and pets. This incredible versatility makes milk paints the go-to choice for furniture makers, designers, and do-it-yourselfers when they want to achieve a professional-looking finish makeover of your wood piece.
A short visit to Pinterest can provide endless inspiration for milk paint furniture refinishing projects to work on if you’re looking for a practical way to spend your weekend. In fact, you may already have a furniture paint to-do list on your phone or notepad. But if you don’t know just where to begin when it comes to painting furniture using milk paint, we’ve prepared a few easy tips to get you started with this nontoxic medium that utilizes natural pigments.
Refer to this primer on using milk paint for furniture to learn how to bring new life to old pieces, but keep in mind these tips work equally well on most any milk paint project. No matter if you want to add color to raw wood chairs you’ve built, refinish furniture like china cabinets handed down from family members or restore an old table you snagged at a tag sale, Real Milk Paint has you covered.
Paint Furniture With Milk Paint
Reasons abound for using Real Milk Paint in your furniture makeovers rather than other paints like chalk paint. Made from all-natural ingredients including milk protein, lime, and pigment, our milk paints offer complete environmentally friendliness with a formulation that’s free of volatile organic compounds (VOCs). The mostly odorless formulation also makes our medium safe to use in areas without a lot of ventilation where you want to paint furniture with milk paint.
Since Real Milk Paint comes in powder form and you mix it yourself, it’s likely thinner than other paints you’ve used, so it may take you a bit of time to get used to it. This variable consistency, however, helps you achieve the right thinness or thickness for your projects. Unlike milk paint brands that come ready to use, our milk paint powder lets you mix paint to the perfect consistency and create only as much or as little as you need to paint furniture, and it simplifies storage of the milk paint powder between projects.
Painting Wood Furniture Technique: Untreated or Raw Wood
There’s no need to use a primer or do much prep work before using milk paint to paint furniture or home decor, but keep in mind that it’s always best to follow the grain when painting raw wood. Since this medium comes in a powder form, you must first mix milk paint before you begin your project. To do this, you need water and an empty container in which to shake or stir the water and milk paint powder formulation.
Typically, our milk paint mix has a 1:1 ratio with water. Tap water is suitable, but for best results use distilled water. Simply add the mixture to an empty container, then mix it up until the contents are blended completely. After you mix milk paint, let the paint sit for roughly 20 minutes for any naturally occurring foam to settle. If you’d rather avoid letting the paint sit, add our Anti-Foaming Agent to the mixture according to the instructions so you can use your mixture immediately.
Painting Two Colors for a Rustic Look
Choose two complementary yet contrasting paint colors, like blue and white milk paint. For this DIY project, start painting the undercoat color. Lightly sand the surface to which you’re applying milk paint to help the paint adhere, wipe away the dust, then use a paintbrush to apply one coat thinly.
Let that first coat dry for a half hout to an hour depending on the ambient conditions, then apply a second coat. Allow the freshly painted surface to dry overnight, because allowing the undercoat color to dry completely usually prevents the colors from mixing or muddling.
Next, apply one coat of paint in the second color and wait 20 minutes to an hour for it to dry. Then, dip a clean cloth in a bucket of water, wring it out well, then wipe it across areas where you’d like the undercoat color to show. Usually, those areas, including edges and spaces near handles, are best suited to distressed paint techniques. The cloth should slowly lift some color from the painted surface for a unique look.
If you’d like the rustic appearance to be more pronounced and look more antiqued, you can use fine-grit sandpaper to rough up a tough coat of milk paint a bit. Keep in mind, however, that sandpaper is much harder to control during the distressing process.
Painting Over a Finished Surface
In most cases, you can apply milk paint directly over an already finished surface. To get a uniform and not a distressed finish, however, you may need to add a bonding agent like our Ultra Bond Adhesion Promoter to your milk paint powder mixture to ensure the paint adheres well to your surface. On the other hand, if you prefer a distressed or chippy look, apply the paint directly to the finished surface, making sure it’s clean first. When using true milk paint, chipping or flaking can occur when applied to a finished surface, giving you a natural antiqued look.
Getting a More Distressed Look
When painting your piece of furniture, if you want to achieve an even more rustic look, you can apply some Chippy Paste where you want it to look like the paint has chipped off for an authentically antique look.
For a crackled look, apply two thin coats of Natural Crackle Paint Finish as a topcoat over the first coat of milk paint you want to show through, allowing each coat to dry. Then, apply two coats of the top color of milk paint. The first coat should still be a bit wet when you apply the second coat. When you’re done, you can protect the existing finish of your painted furniture with a coat of pure tung oil, a finishing cream, a glaze or furniture wax.
Now that you understand the basics of distressing furniture, here’s an expert at the craft — Christina from Pretty Distressed — to help you learn more. If you’re looking for more painting tips, check out the blog for tons more DIY painting techniques and tips.
What is your business or online name?
Pretty Distressed
What is your first name?
Christina
If you had to give a 140 character summary of who you are and what you do, what would that be? (Don’t worry, you can cheat a bit on the character count!)
I’m a full time YouTuber and the creative force behind Pretty Distressed. You can find me making over thrifted furniture on my YouTube channel with over 385K subscribers as well as on Instagram and Tik Tok. I started Pretty Distressed in 2014 as a creative outlet from my day-to-day duties as a stay-at-home mom and have grown my brand into an authority in the furniture flipping space across all social platforms.
Could you explain your journey in how you came to be in the craft/trade that you are currently in?
I started thrifting and flipping furniture as a hobby back in 2014. We had recently relocated to be near family, and bought quite a fixer upper. After new floors, carpet, lights, etc. there just wasn’t any budget left to furnish our home. It gave me the push I needed to start making over furniture we had and things I thrifted. I quickly fell in love with transforming old, discarded furniture. And it wasn’t long after that I started doing furniture flips for clients and selling online.
What is your favorite part about your craft/trade?
I love the symbolism behind what I do. I’m taking things that are discarded that someone thinks don’t hold value anymore, and redeeming them and giving them new life for someone else to enjoy. I love the message that anything can be brought back to life with a little love and care.
How did you find out about Real Milk Paint Co?
I found the Real Milk Paint Co through some amazing projects on Pinterest. I’m based in Tennessee where it is made, and just love the intention behind the brand and its products.
What is your favorite project to do with our products?
I’m a sucker for a chippy, old world finish, so I love using The Real Milk Paint Co. on really old furniture to give it that lived in look.
Do you have a particularly favorite product of ours? If so, what would be one tip/trick to offer to others that you have found produced great results?
I love all sealing waxes and how they give a rich finish free of brush strokes. I recently used the Wood Wax on a two toned piece that had natural wood and milk painted portions. I love that it is all natural and even food safe, and gave a beautiful finish on both substrates. When I’m applying it to a dark color, I like to use a dark old t-shirt to reduce any white lint popping up on my piece.
If you had to give one tip to those looking to “follow in your footsteps” what would it be?
Just create and don’t worry about what other people think. You will have people who love your projects and some that really hate them. You don’t have to please everyone, so don’t be afraid to be creative.
Where can people see your work or contact you?
https://www.prettydistressed.com/ https://www.instagram.com/pretty_distressed/ https://www.facebook.com/prettydistressed
https://www.youtube.com/christinamuscari https://www.tiktok.com/@pretty_distressed
Products Used:
Milk paint Mustard, Soft Wax Clear, Milk Paint Cheesecake, Arabian Night, Wood Wax
What is the best email to contact you by? This will only be used by us if we need additional information, clarification, or notifying you about your feature.
[email protected]
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Page load linkDAIRY CASEIN PAINTS - JAPANESE TURNER PAINTS
Natural paints from natural ingredients
Natural liquid paints, completely made from harmless natural ingredients that do not harm the human body and the environment. Possess high operational and decorative properties.
For staining wood, furniture, paper and cardboard, as well as concrete and stone. Widely used in DIY activities, DIY, apartment renovation, furniture restoration, decorating surface coating, etc. nine0003
5 REASONS TO WORK WITH MILK PAINT:
1. As part of a natural protein component - casein of the Japanese dairy corporation Morinaga Milk Industry.
2.16 classic colonial colors reproduced with extreme precision.
3. Safe constituents of water-based paints and their mediums
4. Quick to apply, give an even layer with a creamy thickness.
5. They have a matte texture, when dried they become insoluble in water.
MATERIALS FOR USE:
Wood, paper, metal* and concrete flooring*.
*Multi primer recommended before application.
DO NOT RECOMMEND USE:
PP/PE plastic in general, soft PVC materials.
(Paint may become sticky and peel off after drying)
ORIGIN OF MILK PAINT
In Colonial America, wood furniture was painted with milk-based paint, more specifically milk protein (casein). To achieve color, mineral pigments from soil, brick, etc. were added to the composition of casein paints, which led to the formation of ancient authentic color tones. nine0003
PAINT IN 16 COLORS
HOW TO USE THE PAINT:
1. Remove dust, dirt or oil from the surface to be painted.
2.Stir thoroughly before use without diluting the paint.
3. Apply paint with a brush only.
4. Do not paint too much at one time. It is better to apply paint in two layers.
Feature:
Milk paint gives a charming vintage look, with a striped or dotted texture. nine0003
WARNING:
Close the jar tightly after use. Store away from direct sunlight, high temperature and humidity. If stored incorrectly, there is a risk of damage to the paint due to natural raw materials. When painting countertops or other wide surfaces, after the milk paint has dried, apply a layer of transparent coating to protect against sunlight (UV-CUT).
CAPACITY AND AREA OF COATING (TWO LAYERS)
Antique medium (water based, for external coating)
A medium that imitates the effect of antiquities and antiques.
GIVES THE SURFACE AN ANTIQUE LOOK
For a vintage finish.
200ml
450ml
1200ml
Emulsion coverage: 8 to 10 sqm (1 liter / 1 coat)
HOW TO USE:
The medium is a thick dark brown emulsion. It can be applied over milk paint, after it has completely dried. Mix well before use, do not dilute the emulsion.
For large surfaces, apply a small amount of the emulsion to a piece of cloth and, applying in places, lightly rub in a thin layer.
For small surfaces it is more convenient to use a brush to give a faded effect.
Notes:
*Final appearance depends on the amount of medium used. Apply a thin layer first and then thicken the color to create the desired effect.
*For a more realistic vintage look, you can scratch the surface before painting. nine0013 *It is possible to use the emulsion over mediums with the effect of cracks or gypsum.
*To enhance the antique effect, it is recommended to apply a light milky paint before using the emulsion as a base undercoat.
Dusty Surface Medium (Water Based Top Coat)
SMOKE WHITE
Gives surfaces a more realistic vintage look
200ml
450ml nine0003
Medium consumption: 8 to 10 m2 (1 liter / 1 layer)
HOW TO USE:
The medium is a thick light beige emulsion. It can be applied over milk paint, after it has completely dried. Mix well before use, do not dilute the emulsion.
For large surfaces, apply a small amount of the emulsion to a piece of cloth and, applying in places, lightly rub in a thin layer.
For small surfaces it is more convenient to use a brush to give a faded effect. nine0003
Notes:
*Final appearance depends on the amount of medium used. Apply a thin layer first and then thicken the color to create the desired effect.
*To enhance the vintage effect, it is recommended to apply dark milky paint before using the emulsion as a base coat.
*The degree of dusty (faded) effect affects the appearance after the job is completed. Initially, we recommend using a small amount to check the degree of color. The darker the bottom layer, the brighter the faded look. nine0003
Cracking medium (water-based, for primer)
FOR AN AGING EFFECT
Aging decorative surfaces with the appearance of cracked paint.
200ml
450ml
1200ml
Primer coverage: 7 to 12 sqm (1 liter / 1 coat)
HOW TO USE:
The medium is a colorless liquid. Mix well before use, do not dilute. It is applied over milk paint after it has completely dried. nine0003
Apply Crack Medium to the base milk paint surface and let dry until slightly tacky to the touch.
Scrub small surfaces with a stiff brush to enhance the faded and cracked effect.
On top of the sticky medium, quickly and carefully apply the final coat of the desired milk color (its color must be different from the color of the bottom base color)
Notes:
*Cracks are located in the direction of the brush path. nine0013 *A thick layer of medium creates large cracks, and a thin layer creates smaller cracks (depending on the material being dyed)
*Long drying time, use a hair dryer for a quick result.
(Note) Crack medium is not waterproof. If necessary, use oil products (slightly soluble).
Plaster texture medium (water based, for primer).
FOR CREATING A GYPSUM SURFACE
The effect of various textures on the surface of objects
200ml
450ml
Primer coverage: 9 to 13 sqm (1 liter / 1 coat)
HOW TO USE:
This emulsion contains white plaster and microscopic ceramic beads in it. Mix well with a stick before use, do not dilute with anything.
Apply in parallel, spreading with a spatula, like butter on bread.
In addition to the paint spatula, a flat wooden spatula can be used.
Leave to dry completely and then apply milk paint over. nine0003
Complete drying takes one to two days.
Notes:
* Medium can be used after adding milk paint.
* Color becomes whitish.
* Variety of textures depending on decoration technique: fork scratches, wooden spatula impressions, etc.
Multi-primer (water based primer).
IMPROVES ADHESION TO THE SURFACE TO PAINT
This primer is applied to materials resistant to milk paints (metals, glass, plastics, etc. ) to improve their adhesion and coating strength. nine0003
200ml
450ml
Coverage: 20 to 25 sqm (1 liter / 1 coat)
HOW TO USE:
Milky white primer becomes transparent after drying. Mix well before use, do not dilute. In order not to leave marks from the brush, it is better to dilute with water less than 0-20%.
Avoid thick coats, 1 or 2 thin coats are better. In the case of concrete and mortar (porous surfaces) use 2 coats.
2 hours after the primer has dried (glass dries for 1 day), milk paint can be applied. nine0003
Notes:
* Does not provide good adhesion to all materials.
Clear Coating (Water Based, Top Coat)
SHINE
Can be used as a top coat as it increases durability, protects the surface from UV rays and fingerprints.
200ml
450ml
1200ml
Coating coverage: 9 to 13 sqm (1 liter / 1 layer)
HOW TO USE:
Milky white coating becomes transparent after drying. Mix well before use, do not dilute. In order not to leave marks from the brush, it is better to dilute with water less than 0-20%. nine0003
Applied on well dried milk paint. Avoid thick coverage, 1 or 2 thin coats are better. In the case of concrete and mortar (porous surfaces) use 2 coats.
Complete drying takes about 2 hours.
Notes:
* Applies to Turner Milk Paint only.
Rust effect mediums (water-based, for top coat)
Red-brown medium: a reddish-brown color similar to rust. nine0013 Dark brown medium: dark brown, similar to dark brown rust.
Product Name: Synthetic Resin Exterior Coating Medium
For use on: wood coatings, metal, rigid PVC, plastics.
Composition: synthetic resin (acrylic), pigment, preservative, water. Organic solvent (propylene glycol)
Capacity: 100 ml.
Paint consumption: 1 to 1.2 sq. m (100 ml / 1 layer)
Drying time: 1-2 hours
1. Medium is a thick brownish emulsion.
Mix well before use, do not dilute. Only if necessary, the medium can be diluted by adding about 0 to 5% water and mixed well.
2. Using a brush, apply a reddish brown medium to the part where you want to paint rust. Holding the brush vertically, apply enough paint until the surface is completely covered.
3. By mixing red-brown and brown mediums together, you can create a neutral shade. Apply it to the surface using the same painting method as mentioned in point 2. For naturalness, do not completely cover the color of the first layer. nine0003
4. Finally, add some dark brown to the bottom layer. Try not to completely paint over the first layer.
features and how to do it yourself - WikiStroy
Natural milk paints: features and how to do it yourself Have you even heard that there are natural paints based on ordinary milk? Meanwhile, they are quite popular, safe and very interesting. In addition, milk paints can be made by hand. The RMNT website will tell you about the properties and features of such compounds. https://www.wikistroi.ru/story/decoration_paint/naturalnyie-molochnyie-kraski-osobiennosti-i-kak-sdielat-svoimi-rukami https://www.wikistroi.ru/story/decoration_paint/naturalnyie-molochnyie-kraski-osobiennosti-i-kak-sdielat-svoimi-rukami/@@download/image/nbW2srfJ.jpg nine0003
Have you even heard that there are natural paints based on ordinary milk? Meanwhile, they are quite popular, safe and very interesting. In addition, milk paints can be made by hand. The RMNT website will tell you about the properties and features of such compounds.
Real milk paint is always made on the basis of milk protein, casein. In addition, the composition contains lime, scientifically - calcium carbonate. To obtain the desired color, pigments, colors are added. That is, the composition is absolutely natural. For this reason, milk paint is most often sold as a dry powder, which must be diluted with water, mixing thoroughly so that there are no lumps. In finished form, such compositions are not stored for a long time, they disappear. nine0003
Milk paints are often confused with chalk paints. Yes, as the Rmnt.ru portal wrote , they also contain casein. However, the rest of the compositions are different. In particular, chalk paint was patented by the team of British Annie Sloan and is sold under this brand in finished form. There are more varieties of milk paint, it is cheaper. At the same time, the main scope of application is almost the same as that of the chalky one - giving furniture a special shabby chic .
Important! In the process of applying casein-lime paint, you will smell milk. To some, this seems unpleasant, but after drying, the paint smells absolutely nothing.
Milk paints, unlike chalk paints, have a low sheen. They may look like whitewash, but richer. They are easy to use - no special surface preparation is required, no primer is needed. Such a composition fits perfectly on porous wooden surfaces, which is why it is almost always used only on them. Milky paint simply won't stick to glass and metal, won't lay down as it should. After mixing the powder with water, it must be allowed to stand for at least 15 minutes. Paint is usually applied to furniture with a brush, in two layers. The first will dry in just an hour. After complete drying, you can sand the surface if you want to give it a more vintage look. nine0003
You can make milk paint yourself, here are two simple recipes:
- We need well-scorched quicklime lime and whole fermented milk. Lime is quenched in sour milk, the paint is ready in a few hours. If the composition is too thick, it is easy to dilute it with the same milk. Aniline aqueous compositions are used as a colorant. As practice shows, such paint is durable, beautiful, does not lose color for at least five years. At the same time, the painted surface seems to be cemented, becoming more fire resistant.