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How to prune citrus trees in pots


How to Prune a Potted Lemon Tree | Home Guides

By Amelia Allonsy Updated December 14, 2018

Dwarf lemon trees (Citrus limon) make the best choice for growing in containers because their height is limited to about 12 feet. While potted lemons don't require pruning to control height, regular pruning still is necessary to encourage outward growth for better fruit production. Additionally, diseased and damaged branches must be removed immediately to prevent disease from spreading throughout the lemon tree. Common dwarf lemon varieties include "Meyer" lemon (Citrus x meyeri) and "Eureka" lemons (Citrus limon "Eureka"), which grow to 12 feet and 10 feet tall, respectively.

  1. 1.

    Disinfect your pruning tools with a solution of 10-percent bleach, which contains one part bleach and nine parts water. Bypass pruners work well for clipping small branches less than 1/2 inch in diameter. Prune 1/2- to 1-1/2 inch diameter branches with lopping shears. Use a pruning saw for larger branches.

  2. 2.

    Clip off any root suckers that grow up from the ground below the graft union. Cut them with bypass pruners, making the cut as far down below soil level as possible. These suckers can be removed at any time throughout the growing season.

  3. 3.

    Cut diseased, broken and dead branches off the tree as they develop throughout the year. Make the cut 1/4 inch above a branch union or bud, cutting back to at least 6 inches inside healthy wood. If an entire branch must be removed, cut it just outside the branch collar which is the wrinkly collar around the joint that protects the tree from disease. Disinfect your pruning tools immediately after cutting these types of branches to avoid spreading disease elsewhere.

  4. 4.

    Clip off any water shoots back to the parent branch. A water shoot is a vigorous grower that commonly shoots straight up from stronger branches. They rarely grow into productive branches and simply crowd other healthy branches. These occur throughout the year and can be pruned at any time.

  5. 5.

    Eliminate any rubbing or crossing branches to encourage an outward growing habit with an open center, so sunlight reaches all the branches. Cut these branches back to 1/4 inch above an outward-facing bud or just above the branch collar. Wait until late winter to prune these branches, after the tree is done fruiting, but before new growth begins.

  6. 6.

    Clip any long, straight branches 1/4 inch above an outward-facing bud to encourage branching. The tree will produce more fruit and have a better shape if it has many short branches as opposed to a few long, straight branches.

  7. 7.

    Cut back any overgrowing branches to 1/4 inch above a healthy bud to maintain a uniform shape. This type of pruning should be done in late winter after harvest but before new growth begins.

    Things You Will Need

    • Bleach

    • Bypass pruners

    • Lopping shears

    • Pruning saw

    Tip

    Lemon trees grow in U. S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. Potted lemons, however, can be grown in lower hardiness zones because you can bring them indoors to protect them from cold temperatures.

References

Writer Bio

A former cake decorator and competitive horticulturist, Amelia Allonsy is most at home in the kitchen or with her hands in the dirt. She received her Bachelor's degree from West Virginia University. Her work has been published in the San Francisco Chronicle and on other websites.

Potted lemon trees: care, pruning and re-potting

Potted lemon trees are an excellent citrus to grow at home. Care from re-potting to pruning helps boost lemon harvest and prevents appearance of diseases.

Key potted lemon facts

Name – Citrus limon

Height – 3 to 10 feet (1 to 3 m)
Exposure – full sun
Soil – well-drained

Foliage – evergreen
Flowering – March to July
Harvest – November to March

The climate in most of our regions isn’t well suited to growing lemon trees directly in the ground, but growing them in pots is perfectly possible.

Re-potting potted lemon tree

Potted lemon trees cannot extract the nutrients they need from the ground.

So the pot and soil you have put in it are their only source of food for them to stock up and grow. Re-potting is thus critical.

For larger pots, repotting becomes difficult. In this case, increase nutrient availability by topdressing the top of the pot with rich, fresh soil mix.

Pruning a potted lemon tree

Pruning isn’t really needed but if you don’t prune your lemon tree, it will quickly grow very large.
In pots, it is best to control your tree’s growth with very regular pruning.

Shorten each new shoot back to more or less half its length, taking great care to cut just above a leaf.
This will result in your lemon tree keeping a nice, tight shape.

Remove dead wood regularly and clear the inside branches of your lemon tree to let light penetrate to the center.

Watering potted lemon tree

In pots, lemon trees dry up much faster than if they were planted in the ground.
In summer, frequent watering is required, whereas watering can be reduced in winter.

Every two weeks, during the growth phase, add citrus-specific fertilizer to boost fruit-bearing. You can do this while watering your lemon tree.

Potted lemon tree in winter

Growing these trees in pots is most adapted, because it makes it possible to bring the lemon trees to a well-lit spot where it doesn’t freeze in the winter.

Lemon trees aren’t indoor plants, and can’t bear staying in a heated environment all year round. They need relatively lower temperatures from October to May.

It is important to place them in an unheated greenhouse for instance, where the temperature never drops below 32°F (0°C).

Harvesting lemons

Harvest season is usually November to March.

In the northern hemisphere, lemon fruits start forming in spring and slowly mature over the winter.

If ever you have to absolutely bring your lemon tree indoors to keep it from freezing, do your best to keep the air moist.

Common potted lemon tree diseases

Learn more about citrus plants:

Smart tip about the lemon tree

Pick the lemons as soon as they easily break off from their branch.

This shows that the fruit has matured enough for the seeds and flesh to be fully developed, without yet being over-ripe.

Credits for images shared to Nature & Garden (all edits by Gaspard Lorthiois):
Lemon tree in pot by Wolfgang Claussen under Pixabay license
Lemon Seedling by an anonymous photographer under Pixabay license
Picking a lemon by Martin Belam ☆ under © CC BY-SA 2. 0
Lemon harvest by Ulrike Leone under Pixabay license

Shaping a citrus crown

Shaping a citrus crown is a fun process that requires patience. Sometimes necessary to get a fruit-bearing tree. Fruiting in most lemons begins only after the formation of branches of the fourth order in the crown (more on this below). Branches of the first, second and third orders of fruit do not give. But the Meyer lemon bears fruit on the branches of the second and third orders.

I must say that citrus fruits have a rather stubborn character. They do not always want to grow the way we need - a compact tree. Therefore, we will try to formulate instructions for detailed formation. And the most important thing here is the beginning, when the sprouted seed, the rooted cutting or the young graft has just begun to grow. But before talking about formation, let's touch on the issue of physiology.

Peculiarities of development of citrus fruits

Growth and development of citrus fruits in nature and on our window sills is significantly different from other indoor plants. The specificity of development is due to the cyclical nature of the growing season. From spring to autumn, these plants have three peaks of development:

The first growth, spring, from about mid-March to June. At this moment, new shoots and leaves grow powerfully. But suddenly the growth stops and the lull (lack of growth) lasts until the young shoots mature.

Shoot maturation is one of the phases of the growing season, and it consists in preparing the plant for a dormant period. In nature, ripening begins with a significant reduction in growth processes: a decrease in the length of the day, an increase in daily temperature fluctuations, and in cultural cultivation, in addition to pruning. When ripe, the deposition of nutrients in the shoots increases, the green bark becomes woody, becomes brown and dry, the leaves acquire a darker shade.

The second wave of citrus growth during the month in the middle of summer. Again we observe intensive growth of leaves. In August, it stops again and the maturation of recruits begins.

The third wave of growth usually falls on the Indian summer - the beginning of September and can last until the end of October.

What is noteworthy: often at the end of the growth phase, citruses dry out the apical bud (growing point) at the end of the shoots. Thus, the natural formation of the crown in nature occurs. Those. thanks to this mechanism, fruit trees have a spreading crown.

I must say that the timing of growth spurts is not rigid, they are dictated primarily by weather conditions. For example, last year Calamondin began to grow rapidly in mid-March, this year - at the end of February. And an orange in another room (at lower temperatures) last year - at the end of March, but this year it has not yet begun. In addition, if the spring is early and sunny, the first growth may be more rapid and long than the second, or vice versa, the spring is cloudy and the summer is sunny, then the second growth is longer and more productive. Sometimes there are only two growth waves in a year, or vice versa four.

Off topic about formation, but speaking of growth peaks. During the intensive growth of green leaves and flowering, citrus fruits gain a huge amount of buds. Sometimes they bloom like our apple trees - all the branches are strewn with flowers, then the formation of ovaries begins. But suddenly a part flies around, and after a couple of weeks, it flies around again. A significant part of the citrus fruits that have set are discarded on the instincts of self-preservation, so that exhaustion does not occur, there are enough nutrients for a new cycle of growth and flowering.

The first time I saw this sight, I almost made a terrible mistake. The fact is that the massive flying around of the ovaries - they are pouring like peas, immediately causes the thought that, probably, the plant does not have enough water. Gotta water! But waterlogging is detrimental to citrus fruits - this is certain death. And if you do not know physiology, you can ruin the plant, trying to stop the shedding of flowers and ovaries with watering. Therefore, first, check the soil in the depth of the pot, whether it is dry enough.

Well, now let's move on to formation.

Topic on the form about the formation of citrus fruits

Formation of the crown of citrus fruits grown from seed

Step one

After the seed germinates, a seedling or rooted cutting forms a shoot, it is called a zero-order shoot. In this single-stem seedling, while it has not yet become woody, we pinch the crown (growth point) so that the height from the ground is 25-30 cm. This process is called tweezing.
After pinching, the growth of the zero shoot stops, it begins to ripen.

Step two

When the null shoot is finished, the citrus is ready for new growth, and we cut it to the desired length. Traditionally, it is recommended to leave 15-20 cm, some gardeners cut it even shorter - leaving about 10 cm. In any case, it is desirable that at least four leaves remain on the zero-order shoot.

Third step

New shoots begin to grow from under the remaining leaves on the shoot. Usually, when pruning a zero shoot, a bud of the topmost leaf or two buds starts growing, less often than all three. For the formation of a richly fruitful tree in the future, it is necessary to ensure that three, in extreme cases, two new shoots start to grow. These will be the shoots of the first order. If they do not want to grow, only one new shoot stubbornly climbs, we break it out (breaking out differs from pruning in that the shoot is removed completely under the base). We are waiting for the rest of the kidneys to wake up. If they do not want to start growing, then again we break out the leading shoot.

And so, until we get the simultaneous development of two or three shoots of the first order. Ideally, it is better to get four first-order shoots, but in reality this does not always happen.

Fourth step

If we managed to get three shoots of the first order, we allow the one above to grow upwards, two we direct to the sides. Those. you can fix the shoots in certain directions with a flexible wire, but make sure that it does not injure the bark.

If we managed to get four shoots of the first order, then we send them like a fan, in different directions, pushing them apart so that the shoots do not interfere with each other, do not block the light. Very often, the shoots stretch up all in a crowd so that from the outside you can’t make out where which branch is and what order. At the same time, young citrus fruits are formed very easily with wire.

Step five

The branches of the first order grow, and can grow thin and long for a long time, so when they grow 25 cm, we pinch them again. When the branches ripen, we cut off about 5-6 cm below the place of tweezing, so that four leaves are left on the shoots of the first order, no less. When pruning, we make a cut directly above the kidney, facing outward, and not inside the crown (figure above).

The final part of the crown formation

If you have mastered the formation of shoots of the first and second order, everything else is not difficult. Everything happens according to the same scenario. We grow shoots to a certain length, pinch, wait for ripening, cut.
The length of the shoot at which the top of the shoot is pinched depends on the order of branching - with the next order they are shortened.

Approximate dimensions:

On shoots of the fourth or fifth order, the formation of skeletal branches ends. If the shoots begin to bloom before the crown is formed, it is better to cut off the buds, since there will be no growth on such branches, the formation will be delayed for a long time. And only with the formation of shoots of the fifth order, citrus fruits can be allowed to bear fruit.

The first difficulty: to achieve development after pruning not one kidney, but two or three at the same time. If a single shoot begins to grow at the place of pruning, it is necessary to break it out, sometimes repeatedly. Those. do not let it grow, but break it out under the base until shoots from the lower located buds go.

The second difficulty: the appearance of tops. These shoots are also called fattening, they will not bear fruit, but differ in that they grow vertically upwards and grow much faster than future fruit branches. If they are not broken, they draw off a lot of nutrients and thicken the crown.

Forming the crown of a fruit tree

If you already have an adult, grown lemon tree (and other citrus trees), then you can cut branches and form a crown throughout the year, but better in spring (April - May). Shoots grow constantly, tops grow especially vigorously - these shoots need to be cut out regardless of the season (if you do not want to use them in the future - this is also possible).

The formation of an already mature large plant with branches of 5 and 6 or more orders is carried out as your soul tells you. Stand back and evaluate the shape of the crown from the side. Usually it is cut so that the lemon or orange really looks like a miniature tree. Some citrus fruits, such as calamondin (citrofortunella), due to genetic characteristics, do not grow as a tree, but as a bush. Then your task is to maintain an even shape of the bush, cut branches that grow inward, not outward.

If you have grafted on a fruit tree or wild game grown from seed, after a successful union, you need to properly guide the graft. The shoot that grows after vaccination, so that it grows straight, is tied to a stick stuck in a pot. It is necessary to trim the growing scion at a length of 12-15 cm. In the future, form it in the same way as described above, counting the order of the branches of the scion, and not the rootstock.

Lemon trees, propagated by cuttings, layering or grafting, bear fruit on branches of the 4th or 5th order, going to the side. When using a low-stem form in a tree grown from a cutting or cutting, branches of the 4th–5th order are formed by the end of the second year of life. Such plants bloom in the third year and can bear fruit. On three-year-old lemons, half of the buds are first removed, and then 2-3 fruits are left from the remaining ovaries, on a 4-5-year-old plant - 6-7 fruits, on a 6-7-year-old plant - up to 10 fruits. With this rationing of the crop, the proper development of the lemon tree is ensured.

Formation of a stem tree

Depending on the height of the stem (trunk), trees can be:

To form a low stem lemon of grapefruit, lime or any other citrus, after the young plant reaches a height of 15-20 cm, before the start of its next growth (late February - early March), cut off the top, leaving 4-7 leaves. After that, 4-6 shoots will begin to develop from the lateral buds. Of these, you need to leave only 3-4 shoots going in different directions (shoots of the first order). When these lateral branches have completely finished their growth, their tops are also cut off, leaving 3–5 buds on each of them in the axils of the leaves. The last kidney should not look inside the crown, but outside. From the lateral buds, the growth of twigs will begin again (shoots of the second order).

Further pruning is carried out until branches of the fourth order are formed.

Rejuvenation of old citrus trees

Rejuvenation of a lemon tree at the age of 14-20, when its fruiting decreases. By this time, the plant is already quite powerful, dense, the branches are quite thick. Not every window sill will fit such an instance, but even in the room, lemons and oranges are quite spread out - fruit shoots do not grow up, but to the sides.

In addition, large trees often outgrow all available containers. The root system is limited to pots (bucket, tub), and may not overpower the nutrition of a large dense crown, especially hung with fruits. To observe a certain proportionality of tops and roots, the crown of old trees is shortened.

Pruning should be done in spring (March-April): all branches up to the 4th or 5th order are cut, thus causing an increased growth of dormant buds. Rejuvenated plants are transplanted into new dishes or old ones, while the root system must be shortened by one third, cutting off the roots from the periphery of the root ball. In no case should the roots be disturbed inside the root ball.

Natalya Rusinova

Growing citrus fruits at home in pots

Contents

  1. Peculiarities of growing citrus fruits
  2. Lemon tree
  3. Potted tangerines
  4. Orange
  5. Calamondin
  6. Grapefruit
  7. Growing citron
    8. at home 0066

Citrus houseplants are not only a wonderful home decoration, but also useful plants, the fruits of which are rich in vitamins and excellent taste. However, growing these southern delicacies at home requires special conditions that differ for each variety of fruit. In this article, we will look at how to grow citrus fruits in a pot in a city apartment.

Peculiarities of growing citrus fruits

Growing citrus fruits at home involves following the basic rules for caring for southern crops.

First of all, indoor citrus fruits need the right soil. For the base, you can take the "flower" or "lemon" soil, diluting it in one part with foliage, sand and humus and three parts of the turf. In terms of structure, such soil will be low-acid, lumpy and loose, which will provide free access of oxygen and moisture to the root system of the plant.

It is better to plant the plant in clay pots, which, due to their properties, are excellent conductors of heat. In addition, these pots "breathe", which will allow excess moisture to evaporate without lingering in the soil.

Potted citrus fruits need to be maintained at an optimal moisture level of at least 65%. Fruit grown in moist air will turn out juicy and tasty, but with an excess of moisture, they are threatened with rotting and falling off. Citrus houses must be watered as the soil dries up: in winter this happens once a month, in summer - once every 1-2 weeks. On hot days and during the heating season, the plant needs regular spraying.

In an apartment, most often citrus fruits are on the windowsill, since this is where the plant will be provided with sufficient access to light and heat. If there is not enough lighting (for example, on the north or north-west side of the apartment), then it is necessary to provide additional lighting to citrus trees using ordinary lamps with good heat dissipation. The temperature during the entire period of development should not fall below +8 degrees. In winter, the temperature regime should be maintained in the region of +12-15 degrees, and with the onset of spring - not lower than +18. Thanks to warm temperatures and high-quality lighting, the plant will begin to produce buds, the flowering of which will mark the proximity of fruiting.

Propagation of citrus fruits is carried out at the end of summer by separating the growing shoot from the main cutting. Such a shoot is carefully cut off and cleaned from the bottom of the bark, after which it is lowered into a pre-prepared pot with nutrient soil, which is fertilized with moss, manure and a small amount of peat. The pot must have holes in the bottom, which are necessary for the outflow of excess water.

You can propagate by seeds and grafting, but for this it is better to familiarize yourself with the varietal characteristics of the plant, since even fertile trees can become inedible during reproduction.

Citrus pruning is necessary not only to keep the plant healthy, but also to form a beautiful round shape that can be created after the second year of the plant's life. If the aesthetic side requires pruning of too long shoots, then the vegetative side requires too thick ones. Shoots that grow inside the crown and prevent the free development of buds due to their large number should also be removed. Pruning is done in the spring, all cuts are made at an angle.

If you are interested in how to grow a citrus tree on your own, then there are two options - cuttings or from the stone at home. The apartment is ideal for this, because it is possible to create conditions in it that are as close as possible to greenhouses. Growing from cuttings is recognized as the best way, since this method will provide you with fruits in the coming years, while plants obtained from seeds begin to bear fruit, at best, no earlier than 10 years later.

Consider the varieties of citrus trees for an apartment in more detail.

Lemon tree

Lemon tree is an unpretentious and hardy citrus species that shows good results in fruiting and frost resistance. In addition, the lemon gets along well in low light and moisture conditions. However, it should be remembered that the lemon tree needs regular pruning and fertilization, as a well-groomed tree will provide you with tasty and fragrant fruits.

Lemon is planted from seeds or cuttings. As already mentioned, plants from seeds will begin to bear fruit only after 10-15 years. For development, planting material of the varieties Pavlovsky, Maikopsky, Novogruzinsky is used - these are varieties specially created for home conditions.

Lemon care is simple: regular watering, bait, crown pruning. The only thing that can be difficult is the need to transplant a lemon tree into a larger pot every year.

Indoor tangerines

Mandarins, like lemons, require regular replanting in the spring. In addition, he is more thermophilic and picky about the level of humidity. It is better not to keep homemade tangerine at temperatures below +20 degrees, otherwise the plant will quickly die. However, a clear advantage of the species is its faster fruiting time - after 5–6 years, fruit development is possible.

Mandarin, in addition to the requirements for lighting and moisture, also needs regular top dressing and pest control. Unfortunately, these plants are very susceptible to aphids, spider mites and mealybugs. Also, the problem of mandarin is the complexity of the flowering process, which often needs to be stimulated.

Orange

The orange tree in the apartment is not only a supplier of sweet fruits throughout the year, but also a source of wonderful aroma. However, the problem with the orange is its poor tolerance to low temperatures, which will require constant maintenance of the temperature at 18-24 degrees. In addition, orange requires direct sunlight for at least 2 hours a day, but no more than 3, which is difficult when choosing a growing location, because with all this, the tree does not like anxiety and rearrangements.

This type of citrus needs regular watering and spraying, which should be carried out at least 2 times a week. The best varieties of domestic oranges are Gamlin, Pear-shaped Kinglet, Washington Navel and Adjarian.

Calamondin

Calamondin is a citrus plant that resembles a mandarin in appearance. However, unlike the latter, calamondin is less whimsical to light and moisture, and besides, it is very frost-resistant as for a tropical plant. The tree reaches a height of 90 cm, and bears fruit all year round.

Calamondin is best grown from cuttings or store-bought ready-made annuals. Such a tree will begin to bear fruit already for 2-3 years.

Despite the resistance to cold, the optimum growing temperature in summer is 21-25 degrees at 70% humidity, and in winter - 10-16 degrees at 50% humidity. This mode will provide the plant with healthy and abundant fruiting.

Grapefruit

Domestic grapefruit can be obtained from Duncan and Marsh varieties. This variety of citrus fruits, according to the conditions of detention, resembles a lemon. However, grapefruit needs more abundant and frequent watering and the maximum amount of sunlight.

Citron

Citron is a plant with very large yellow fruits (from 15 cm long) and thick skin.

Learn more