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How to propagate roses in water


How to Propagate Rose Cuttings in Water

There are lots of ways to propagate roses, from grafting to saving seeds.

Propagating stem cuttings in water happens to be one of the easiest methods. If you’re out trimming your shrubs in the morning, it’s pretty much as simple as tossing some of those ends into a cup of water and keeping the liquid fresh until roots form.

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Of course, there’s a bit more to it than that, and there are some things you can do to increase your chances of success.

That’s what we’re going to go over in this guide. Here’s what we’ll discuss:

What You’ll Learn

Stem cuttings from some plants propagate extremely well in water (hello, monstera!), some not so well, and others, like French tarragon, won’t grow roots in water at all.

Roses fall firmly into the middle category. It’s not impossible to propagate them in liquid, but they won’t make it easy for you, either. As a general rule, start three cuttings and expect only one to take.

Starting rose cuttings in soil is a more reliable method, as it causes less shock for the plant when you transplant it. This method also encourages the development of hardier, sturdier roots. But starting in water is incredibly simple.

I think of it this way: if I need to be absolutely sure my cutting will take, I start it in soil. If I’m just casually trimming my roses and want to see if a few will take root, I’ll start them in water.

Be Aware of Laws and Ethics Governing Propagation

Before you jump into propagating your plants, there are some legal and ethical considerations to mull over.

Some rose varieties are patented, which means it’s illegal to reproduce them. Petite Knock Outs, for instance, are patented by the breeder Meilland International, and on occasion they have sued – and won judgments against – people who have violated their patents.

Most of the time, a patented rose will have a little “R” symbol (®) next to its name, or the tag will specifically state that it’s patented and shouldn’t be reproduced.

A trademark symbol (™) doesn’t denote that a patent is held, it simply means that the plant’s name has been trademarked.

While it’s unlikely that a patent holder will come searching out a home gardener who just wants one more specimen of their favorite plant, it’s still against the law.

Patents are valid for 20 years from the date that they’re issued and unless a new one is granted, it’s fair game at that point.

To determine whether a particular cultivar has been patented, you can head to HelpMeFind and search for the name of the rose.

Any patents will be displayed on the rose’s information page. They also provide a resource for gardeners who want to exchange cuttings, so you can find some exceptional options to further your collection.

But what about those smaller breeders who don’t have the knowledge, time, or even the funds to register a patent on a rose cultivar they create?

As a general rule, rose lovers agree not to propagate a particular variety for 20 years after its introduction by a smaller breeder – unless the breeder specifically states it’s okay to reproduce their invention and then it’s usually for home use only.

It’s not uncommon among small breeders to share their creations, so feel free to ask. Many of them will be delighted to know that you appreciate their efforts and will be happy to share the love.

Even some larger breeders give away plants and permit their cultivars to be propagated by fellow rose lovers for home use. Griffith Buck was famous for his generosity with his roses.

There’s no law against reproducing unpatented plants, so only you can decide whether or not you feel right about it.

Take Your Cuttings

Technically any stem you cut from a rose can be propagated in water, but you will have a much higher rate of success with young, pliable, green growth. Avoid the woody, older stems – these are best used for propagation via air layering.

Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

You can find young, pliable growth from spring through summer, but I generally take my cuttings in spring because the milder weather causes less drying out.

Once you’ve located some new growth, take a six-inch-long piece from the end of the branch using a sharp, sanitized pair of secateurs.

Everyone who knows me knows that I’m a huge fan of Felco pruners, and I carry them with me out into the garden every day. I prefer the F2 model for rose pruning.

Felco F2 Pruners

If you want to add a pair to your gardening kit, you can find them at Amazon.

It helps to make the cut at a 45 degree angle so the bottom of the stem doesn’t seal flat against the bottom of the container that you place the cutting in.

Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

Remove all but the top two leaflets. Place the cutting in a clear glass or jar of clean, room-temperature water. The bottom third of the stem should be submerged in water.

Place the jar out of direct sunlight, but somewhere warm where it will be exposed to bright, indirect light. The average home temperature is ideal, but if you keep the cutting outside, avoid temps below 50 and above 90°F.

Caring for Cuttings

It takes three or so weeks for roots to begin to form, and a few more weeks for them to become large enough to transplant into soil.

In the meantime, your job is to change the liquid every single day. Stagnant water is an invitation for fungal and bacterial issues that can put an end to your propagation adventures.

Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

Beyond that, just keep an eye on the cutting for any signs of fungal growth, like a brown or black substance on the glass.

If you see this, clean the container and refill it with fresh water or move the cutting to a new container with fresh liquid. While you’re cleaning, keep the stem in a cup of water so that it doesn’t dry out.

If you don’t see roots forming after about three weeks, wait a few more weeks before giving up. If the end of the cutting starts to turn black, this is a sign that it has died and should be discarded.

For those that survive and grow new roots, it’s time to move them to a potting medium.

Transplant into Soil

If you’ve ever successfully managed to start a cutting of any species in water, only to find that it fails once you move it into soil, it’s not your fault. You likely didn’t do anything wrong.

The roots that form when a cutting is rooted in water tend to be weaker than those started in soil.

To help ease the transition, you’ll need to move the cuttings from the water base to a light soilless potting medium for a few weeks before planting it in its permanent home.

Fill a six-inch pot with a soilless potting medium. I like Hydrofarm’s Light Warrior soilless mix, which is available at Amazon in one-cubic-foot bags.

Hydrofarm Light Warrior Soilless Potting Mix

Make a hole in the potting medium and gently place the rooted cutting into it, tamping down the medium around the stem. Keep the pot indoors in bright, indirect light.

Keep the medium evenly moist, but not soggy or wet. Feel free to place a tented plastic bag or a liter bottle with the top cut off over the cuttings to keep them moist.

This helps the cutting retain moisture so it doesn’t dry out.

After three weeks or so, as long as the cutting still looks healthy and has started to produce new growth, transfer the plant to its new home outdoors after a week of hardening off.

If your cutting hasn’t started growing, keep it indoors a bit longer.

Hardening off involves taking the young plant outside and putting it in a protected area for an hour on the first day.

The next day, place it outside for two hours before bringing it back in again. Add an hour each day for a week to gently acclimate it to the outdoors. At that point, you can plant your rose in the ground.

Rooted cuttings can go into the ground anytime of year so long as there are at least six weeks until the first projected frost. The cooler days of fall are usually better for transplanting than the hot days of summer, which can stress young plants.

If you took your cutting later in the year or it didn’t root in time for fall planting, keep the potted rose indoors throughout the winter in a sunny spot. Transplant it after hardening it off in the spring after all risk of frost has passed.

You Can Never Have Too Many Roses

Sometimes I see a rose that I adore and I just want more, more, more! Other times I want to save a rose that is growing old.

Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

Whatever your motivation for propagating these plants, rooting stem cuttings in water is a viable method. While it’s less reliable than propagating in soil, it has a time and a place.

There are days when I’m out pruning and I don’t want to toss the clippings that I’ve taken, but I don’t have the time to go through the whole planting process. So I toss them in a glass of water and let the magic happen.

What about you? What’s your motivation for propagating roses? Share your thoughts with us in the comments section below.

Now that you have a new plant on the way, you might be interested in learning more about how to grow and care for roses. If so, here are a few options to check out:

Grow Roses from Cuttings: 2 Best Ways to Propagate!

How to grow roses from cuttings easily! Compare the BEST & worst ways to propagate in water or soil, using potatoes, & root by air layering.

Maybe it’s a beautiful rose plant in the garden that you want to multiply, or a Valentines rose bouquet that you want to grow into more roses, it’s easy to want more colorful and gorgeous rose bushes and vines in our homes and gardens.

Many plant lovers have tried to grow roses from cuttings. There are many rose propagation methods such as rooting in soil or water, air layering, and some even try to grow rose cuttings in potatoes! Some of these methods are great, some actually don’t work very well.

Today we are going to compare which ways are the best and easiest to propagate roses from either a plant, cut flowers or even a bouquet. Wouldn’t it be nice to have more roses in our gardens or as gifts to share with friends? 🙂

Can you propagate patented roses?

* Some resources in article are affiliate links. Full disclosure here .

A plant patent lasts for 20 years, after which the plant is allowed to be propagated.  

If the roses are patented within the last 20 years, it is illegal to propagate the rose without the consent of the patent holder. ( Source )

However, there are endless varieties of roses you CAN propagate. For example, the famous “New Dawn” and “Charlotte Armstrong” roses were patented over 50 years ago, and old-fashioned heirloom roses often root easier than modern hybrids.

Now you know which roses not to propagate, let’s look at the best and easiest methods to root rose cuttings! ( Source )

Best time to grow roses from cuttings 

The best time to grow roses from cuttings is from spring through summer, when flexible new stems (current year’s growth) are actively growing. They are called softwood cuttings, who are the fastest and easiest to root when you select healthy stems.

Look at all the beautiful rooted rose cuttings by Vuon & Nha on YouTube! Video tutorial below:

The next best are semi-hardwood cuttings, taken in late summer and early fall, when new stems have partially matured.

Hardwood cuttings are most difficult type of cutting to root. They are taken in late fall or early winter, when the rose stems have matured and entered dormancy.

Grow roses from cuttings by air layering 

Air layering is a fascinating propagation method being used for thousands of years! Nowadays there are easy products like these reusable air layering pods you can get, or make your own with simple materials such as small water bottles or plastic bags.

Air layering is the BEST way to propagate roses (and many woody plants) if the rose bush or vine that you want to multiply is already growing in your garden or in a friend’s garden. You don’t even have to use rooting powder with this method.

The best time for air layering roses is in late spring or summer when the weather is warm and the rose bushes are actively growing. ( Air layering rose video tutorial below. )

Select a stem that is about the thickness of a pencil and longer than a foot. Take a clean sharp knife, find a spot at about 1 foot for the top tip of the stem, remove leaves and  thorns around this area, peel off about a 1 inch section of the green bark tissue to get to white wood.  

You can also make a 2” long cut along the middle of the stem, and insert a little piece of plastic straw to prop the cut open, like shown in the above video tutorial by Vuon & Nha.

Don’t cut too deeply into the stem or it could break. 

Dust the cut area with rooting hormone. You can skip this, but rooting hormone does help speeding up the process. 

Next, make a 3” to 4” size pouch using either plastic wrap or a small plastic bottle filled with moist peat moss, coir, or potting soil. Coco coir is a great medium to root rose cuttings. It is sustainable and clean, which is important for propagation.

The cut area should be completely covered with enough room for roots to develop. Video tutorial below by Vuon & Nha.

Secure top and bottom with strings or twist-tie (Not too tight so the plant can grow and expand).   You can also use these reusable air layering pods. 

Because the stem is still attached to the mother plant, it is receiving water and nutrients as the new roots are growing from the cut area. This greatly increases the propagation success rate to nearly 100%!

Most rose plants show their white roots in 3 – 5 weeks. When you see good root system develops with lots of healthy roots, clip the stem off below the layer.

Gently remove ties and covers. Carefully plant your new rose plants and keep them well watered and protected from direct sunlight for a couple of weeks so it can adapt.

Grow roses from cuttings in soil or medium 

Fill some clean pots or containers rooting mix and water well so it’s moist and fully hydrated. You can use clean potting soil or a soil-less mix such as clean sand, peat moss, perlite, or Coco coir.  ( Photo by Hedgerow Rose)

IMPORTANT: The containers should have drainage holes  and never sit in water for too long. ( Photo by Grownups )

Coco coir is a great medium to root rose cuttings. It is sustainable and clean, which is important for propagation.

Take rose cuttings only from healthy plants that are well watered. Choose fresh healthy rose stems newly grown from the woody base, with at least 3-5 leaf nodes on the stem. Cut near the base at a 45-degree angle. Put cut stems in water immediately.

Video tutorial by Vuon & Nha on YouTube. How to propagate rose cuttings in coco coir!

Cut longer stem into 6 inch to 8 inch long, and make sure each cutting have at least 3 nodes – where leaf meets stem. Remove all flower buds and leaves except for one set of leaves at the top of each cutting.  

Dip the cutting’s bottom half in the rooting hormone powder or gel. Use a pencil to make a planting hole 3 to 4 inches deep in your rooting mix. Plant the rose cutting into the hole so at least two nodes are covered. 

 Keep the cuttings in a warm and bright place away from direct sun. Water when the rooting mix start to feel dry on the top inch.  Pamela at Flower Patch farm used recycled coffee cups (above) and large jars (below ) as humidity tent. Such great ideas!

You can also use a propped- up plastic bag or a mini greenhouse. Here are 45 best DIY greenhouses you can make from tiny to big!

If you live in a warm humid climate with a shaded outdoor area, you can skip the humidity cover. ( Photo below by Hartwood Roses )

Most softwood rose cuttings will root within 2 to 6 weeks. If you see healthy leaves growing, and feel some resistance when you very gently tug on the cuttings (don’t do this too soon!) , it’s likely they have rooted.

Here’s a YouTube tutorial by Mike on how to use a humidity cover made from plastic bottles.

Now you can remove the humidity tent and let them grow for a couple more weeks before transplanting the cuttings. Below is another propagation example by Lilisim.

Can you root rose cuttings in water?

Rose cuttings do not propagate well in just water.  Some cuttings will root, but the success rate is usually about 20%, while you can get 80% success by propagating rose cuttings in soil medium or by layering. 

The rose cuttings tend to take a long time to root in water, and is prone to rotting.

However, some favorite plants can root very easily in water! Here are a couple of tutorials on how to propagate Fiddle Leaf Fig or Hydrangea cuttings in soil or water with almost 100% success!

Hydrangeas are some of the easiest flowers to propagate! Tutorial here!

Can you grow rose cuttings using potatoes? 

There are many viral images of rose cuttings in potatoes, but I have not seen any scientific or real life evidence of potatoes or dipping in honey making rose cuttings grow more quickly or successfully.  

On the contrary, there are many reports of failures from gardeners who actually tried to grow rose cuttings in potatoes. 

The potatoes may grow roots, which will not magically become rose roots. The rose cuttings need a medium that holds moisture and air, which isn’t really what a potato does. 

That’s it! Use the first 2 methods, and happy gardening! 🙂

Rooting rose cuttings in water

You can buy rose seedlings, or you can propagate the variety you like on your own. You just need to find a suitable bush or bouquet. Growing roses from cuttings at home allows you to expand the rose garden for free. You can root a stem from a bouquet at any time of the year. Do not delay - if you like a rose, then the fresher the cut (no more than three days in a vase), the more successful the operation.


If the water in the vase has not been changed, then the multiplied microorganisms have already risen up the shoot and will cause decay instead of the formation of callus and roots.

Rosehip - the wild ancestor of any rose - is a rooting champion. Any fragrant beauty has inherited this property to a greater or lesser extent. The vegetative method of reproduction (by shoot) provides considerable advantages:

The only drawback is that such a plant develops a little slower than a commercial graft. But over time, it catches up and is not inferior in habitus and flowering to purchased specimens.

What affects the rooting of rose cuttings in water

The success of reproduction depends on belonging to a group of varieties according to the classification. Climbing rooted best of all, in second place - miniature, polyanthus. The most capricious ones that are most often found in bouquets are hybrid tea.

Willingly respond to the rooting of roses of domestic varieties or grown in your area. Imported varieties have almost lignified stems, a long cutting time - the journey of a beauty from Ecuador takes 5-7 days. The survival rate of cuttings is affected by stimulants and preservatives used in greenhouses.

It has been noted that pink and red varieties give a good result, yellow and orange ones are worse.

When and how to root a rose in water

It is best to cut the cuttings in spring, summer, early autumn - at this time the survival rate is maximum. Lighting is required in winter.

The material is chosen according to the following criteria: a bud, the leaves should not be withered, the average thickness of the stems is 0.5 cm (with a pencil), there should be buds in the axils of the leaves. There is little chance of rooting cuttings of roses in green and lignified stems - the latter are determined by thorns: if they come off easily, then they are late with reproduction.

Cuttings are cut from the middle part of the stem, it is better to take a rose with a half-blown bud. The optimal length of the segment is 15-25 cm - this is one to three knots.

An oblique cut is made under the kidney (at an angle of 45˚), going down 1.5 cm. A horizontal cut is made above the upper kidney, retreating up one centimeter. Leaves are removed to minimize evaporation. Leave the top pair, but cut it in half. Rose seedlings are placed in water - you can and should change it, cover it with a bag. After the roots grow back, they are transplanted into the ground.

It will be correct to use stimulants: radipharm, rootin, kornerost, heteroauxin. The cut of the cutting is dusted with powder or soaked in a solution according to the instructions.


Alternative methods

There is an opinion that cuttings of roses in water can be replaced by sprouting in young potatoes. A hole is made in the tuber (with a nail, a skewer) and the prepared cutting is deepened to the lower kidney.

The advantages of the potato method are suitable humidity and root-forming auxins, growth phytohormones from sprouting eyes. But there are objections - young root hairs will not find their way through the dense tissues of the potato. But potatoes will grow from awakened eyes. It is possible that the method works as a way of holding for vaccination or transportation.

But a good result for roses from a bouquet gives the Burrito method: the formation of callus in wet newspapers or paper towels in the dark at a temperature of 14-18˚C. The technology is simple, but it is important to monitor compliance with the temperature regime.

So, the easiest and most cost-effective way to get your favorite variety is to propagate roses with cuttings in water. We wish you success in rooting and expanding the rose garden collection.

methods of cuttings in winter, spring, autumn with photo and video

Rules for propagating roses from cuttings

Cuttings are one of the main ways of propagating roses. There are two options - green and cuttings and lignified. The first case is used for summer propagation of garden roses. The second is for winter and spring. And he is the most popular. And in this way you can propagate roses from a bouquet, because in flowering shoots the lower part of the shoot is always lignified.

Cutting cuttings

Rooting cuttings can be cut from any part of the shoot, except for the top with a flower. Each cutting should have 2 nodes - this is the place where the leaves are attached to the stem and where the buds are. The thickness of the cutting should be at least 5 mm - too thin will not take root.

The lower cut should be oblique - it is made just below the knot, stepping back about 5 mm. Why oblique? But because the callus (the tissue from which the roots then grow - a kind of white growth) is best formed around the cut. And the larger its area, the larger the callus. And one more thing: it is very important to make cuts with a sharp knife - if the tissues of the shoot are wrinkled, it will most likely rot and will not give roots.

Here the top cut must be straight. They do it by stepping back from the node the same 5 mm. Why direct? Moisture escapes through the wound, and besides, it is an open gate for infection. That is why the area of ​​the upper cut should be minimal.

Preparing the cuttings

Remove the lower leaves from the cut cuttings. And the upper ones are shortened - rose leaves usually consist of 3 or 5 segments, and only 2 need to be left. For reliability, it is useful to cover the upper cut with children's plasticine.

Soil for rooting cuttings

Rose cuttings give roots, but not as easily as, for example, currant twigs - just putting them in water is not enough. It is best to root them in the ground. And there are options.

River sand. It is light, friable and very well breathable, which is necessary for the formation of roots. But there is a problem - the sand dries up very quickly. Therefore, it will need to be watered frequently. Or add perlite to it, which retains moisture.

Soil mixtures. There are 2 classic versions:

The sand in this case is the baking powder. And peat or earth provide moisture capacity, that is, planted cuttings will have to be watered less often.

Rooting conditions for cuttings

Cuttings are buried in the substrate by about 1 cm. You need to make holes with a stick or pencil, insert the cuttings there and lightly compress the soil with your hands.

Then the cuttings should be well watered. And be sure to cover with either a jar or a plastic bag so that there is constantly high humidity around the planted cuttings. But! It is necessary (required!) Once a day to remove the jar (package) so that the cuttings are ventilated - otherwise they will become moldy and rot.

Another important point: the soil temperature should be about 21 °C, and the air temperature should be 2-3 °C lower (2). There is no place for cuttings on the windowsill - it is always cooler than necessary, and cold soil, combined with high humidity, always leads to an outbreak of fungal diseases.

Photo: pixabay.com

And, of course, the cuttings need a lot of light. But not direct sunlight is the best - they will provoke increased evaporation of moisture from the leaves, as a result of which the cuttings can dry out.

Rose cuttings

Roses can be propagated from cuttings at almost any time of the year. And there are some interesting methods that allow you to propagate roses more efficiently.

Cuttings of roses from a bouquet

The life of bouquets given on March 8 is short-lived - in most cases they will last no more than a week. And so we want this beauty to be with us always ... But this is possible! For example, you can cut cuttings from roses from a bouquet, and then grow them in the garden.

The cuttings will only take root if the roses in the bouquet were fresh. It is useless to root dried shoots. But how to understand how fresh a flower is?

– The first thing you need to pay attention to is the sepals, small green “leaves” at the very base of the flower, advises agronomist-breeder Svetlana Mikhailova. - If they are raised up, literally "hug" the bud, then the flower is fresh. If they are lowered down, then the rose has been cut long ago.

The second indicator of freshness is the leaves.

– If you take a flower in your hands and the leaves begin to crumble, it means that the rose is stale, says Svetlana Mikhailova.

By the way, many buyers are guided by the degree of dissolution of the flower. They think that if the rose is still in bud, it means that it was cut recently. Nothing like this!

– Roses are stored in the refrigerator until they are sold, explains Svetlana Mikhailova. - They are even transported in refrigerators. Under such conditions, the bud will not open. Moreover, flowers are always stored and transported "dry", without water - they are simply packed in paper. And how much the rose spent in this form, no one knows.

It happens that without water and in the cold, roses spend a week or more. The buds will remain unopened, but the plant has already died. And so you bring home a bouquet, put it in water, hoping that now the flowers will bloom. But their heads just hang, never opening. They are dead. And it is pointless to cut such roses.

- This is often the case with Dutch roses, - says Svetlana Mikhailova, - because they are brought from afar. But now there are a lot of Russian greenhouse roses on the flower market. They are usually much fresher.

And that's the easiest way to cut them.

Cutting roses in winter

In winter, you can cut cuttings from purchased roses, for example, from the same bouquets. Or specially buy a flower you like in the store. In this case, the method of propagation by semi-lignified cuttings is used.

Cuttings of roses in spring

Specialists do not advise radical pruning of roses in autumn, it is better to pin the shoots to the ground for the winter, and if you use this technology, then spring cuttings of roses are your option. After the winter shelter has been removed from the plants, they need to be cut off - cut out frozen branches and remove excess stems. So these very extra stems are excellent material for cuttings.

In this case, the standard method of propagation by semi-lignified cuttings is also used.

Cuttings of roses in summer

In summer, roses actively grow shoots, and at this time you can use the second method of propagation - green cuttings. They are cut from May to July, but it is better in the budding phase (3).

The shoot to be taken from cuttings must be strong and fully green. The cuttings are cut about 10 cm long, but it is important that they have 2-3 buds. The top cut is made directly above the kidney. The lower one is oblique, just below the kidney. The lower leaves should be removed, leaving a couple of the top ones. And cut them so that out of 3 - 5 plates only two remain.

Before planting, the cuttings should be soaked in a Heteroauxin solution for 12 hours to stimulate root formation.

Prepared cuttings are planted in a shkolka - a secluded quiet place with fertile soil, deepening by 1.5 - 2 cm. Water well and cover with foil. Roses are photophilous plants, however, under the scorching rays of the sun, the cuttings begin to evaporate moisture too actively and dry out rather than give roots. Therefore, the shkolka should be done either under the light shade of trees, or the cuttings should be shaded with coniferous branches or burlap.

Planted cuttings should be watered frequently - the soil should be moist all the time. And in hot weather, it is useful to rinse the film with cold water.

Roots of green rose cuttings usually form after 3-4 weeks - new leaves speak for this. After that, the film must be gradually opened so that the plants get used to the open air - first for a couple of hours in the morning, then longer and longer. After 2 weeks, the film is removed completely.

In the future, young roses should be constantly watered, and carefully covered for the winter. In the spring they can be planted with a clod of earth in permanent places.

Potato rose cuttings

Both green and semi-woody cuttings can be rooted in this way. They are prepared in a standard way, but before planting they are stuck into potatoes, and only then, together with the tuber, they are planted in a school in the garden.

Why do they do it? And in order for the cuttings not to dry out, if it is not possible to water them often, this method is useful for weekend summer residents. Juicy potatoes. The moisture in it remains for a very long time, and even if the soil is dry, the cutting will not die.

Rose cuttings using the burrito method

This method of rooting cuttings is becoming more popular year by year. And it got its name from the Mexican analogue of shawarma - burrito. And you will understand why.

The point is this. The lower cut, as with traditional cuttings, is dusted with a root formation stimulator. Then several pieces of cuttings (usually 5-10 are recommended) are wrapped in 2-3 layers of newspaper or paper towels, moistened with water so that the paper is moist, but not wet, and then loosely (it is important that air penetrated inside) wrapped in polyethylene. It turns out a kind of bundle, similar to the same shawarma burrito. It is cleaned in a dark, cool place with a temperature of 14 - 18 ° C.

This is important! If the temperature is lower, the roots will not form. And if it is higher, the cuttings will either dry out (even constant moisture often does not save), or they will become moldy and begin to rot.

As a rule, the callus on the cuttings is formed after 3 weeks. If this does not happen, the cuttings are again wrapped in paper (if it has dried up, it must be moistened again) and the film and again sent to a dark, cool place.

When the callus is formed, the cuttings are planted one at a time in pots in light nutrient soil (traditional rooting mixtures are suitable) so that only 1 bud is above the soil surface, watered and covered with a jar or bag. And now they need to be placed in a bright (but not under direct sunlight) and warm place - the temperature should be 23 - 25 ° C.

The burrito method has been shown to give a higher percentage of rooting. And even varieties of roses that are difficult to propagate by cuttings, with this method, give roots much more readily.

Popular Questions and Answers

We talked about the propagation of roses by cuttings with agronomist-breeder Svetlana Mikhailova.

Can all varieties of roses be propagated from cuttings?

Easily rooted cuttings of polyanthus (Border King, Paul Crampel, Holsiein), climbing (Bobbie James, Snow goose, Polka) and floribunda (Apricola, Edelweiss, Tequila) roses. Hybrid teas take root worse and give a weak root system. Roses with yellow flowers take root poorly (Papillon, Golden Tower, Yokey Dokey).

When to prune roses grown from cuttings?

They do not need to be trimmed in the first year of planting. The first pruning can be done next spring, cutting out dry and frozen branches. A cardinal pruning is best done from 3 years.

Which roses are better: grafted or own-rooted?

Both have their pros and cons. Own-rooted ones do not give wild shoots, however, their root systems are weaker and may suffer in a frosty snowless winter.

Roses grafted onto wild roses winter better, their roots are strong, but wild shoots constantly grow from the stock, which must be removed. And often the vaccine is short-lived.

Sources

  1. State catalog of pesticides and agrochemicals permitted for use on the territory of the Russian Federation as of July 6, 2021 // Ministry of Agriculture of the Russian Federation https://mcx.gov.ru/ministry/departments/ departament-rastenievodstva-mekhanizatsii-khimizatsii-i-zashchity-rasteniy/industry-information/info-gosudarstvennaya-usluga-po-gosudarstvennoy-registratsii-pestitsidov-i-agrokhimikatov/
  2. Kudryavets D.

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