Can geraniums survive winter

Yard and Garden: Overwintering Geraniums for Spring Replanting

Using a sharp knife, take three-to-four-inch stem cuttings from the terminal ends of the shoots. Pinch off the lower leaves, then dip the base of each cutting in a rooting hormone. Stick the cuttings into a rooting medium of vermiculite or a mixture of perlite and sphagnum peat moss. Pots and flats with drainage holes in the bottom are suitable rooting containers. Insert the cuttings into the medium just far enough to be self-supporting. After all the cuttings are inserted, water the rooting medium.

Allow the medium to drain for a few minutes, then place a clear plastic bag or dome over the cuttings to prevent the plant foliage from wilting. Finally, place the cuttings in bright light, but not direct sunlight. The cuttings should root in six to eight weeks. When the cuttings have good root systems, remove them from the rooting medium and plant each rooted cutting in its own pot. Place the potted plants in a sunny window or under artificial lighting until spring.

How do you overwinter geraniums as potted plants?

Carefully dig up each plant and place in a large pot. Water each plant thoroughly, then place the geraniums in a sunny window or under artificial lighting. Geraniums prefer cool indoor temperatures. Daytime temperatures of 60 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit and slightly cooler night temperatures are ideal. Water plants about every two weeks. Geraniums are likely to become tall and lanky by late winter. In March, prune back the plants. Cut the geraniums back by one-half to two-thirds. The geraniums will begin to grow again within a few days and should develop into attractive specimens by May.

How do you overwinter geraniums as bare-root plants?

Carefully dig up the geraniums before the first fall frost. Shake the soil from the plant’s roots. Then place one or two plants in a large paper sack and store in a cool (45 to 50 degree Fahrenheit), dry location. An unheated bedroom or indoor porch might be a suitable location. An alternate (somewhat messier) method is to hang the plants upside down in a cool, dry location. The foliage and the shoot tips will eventually die.

In March, prune or cut back each plant. Remove all shriveled, dead material. Prune back to firm, green, live stem tissue. After pruning, pot up the plants and water thoroughly. Place the potted geraniums in a sunny window or under artificial lighting. Geraniums that are pruned and potted in March should develop into attractive plants that can be planted outdoors in May.

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How to overwinter geraniums: with expert advice

(Image credit: Getty Images / yonka60 )

Learning how to overwinter geraniums is really handy for a gardener to know as it can save money and allows you to prolong the life of varieties you are particularly fond of.

Geraniums, or pelargoniums, are stalwarts of the summer garden. Available in an array of colors, and flowering continuously provided they are deadheaded, geraniums are perfect for bringing cheer and long-lasting color to hanging baskets, containers and borders.

However, they should be one of the winter garden ideas you have in mind when compiling your job list.

(Image credit: Hervé Lenain / Alamy Stock Photo )

Planning a winter garden is vitally important when it comes to frost-sensitive plants. While they put on a long display and are perennial plants, geraniums are frost tender, meaning that they will not survive harsh winters – so knowing how to overwinter geraniums is a must if you are keen on growing them.

Originating from South Africa, geraniums are happiest in the heat, and can tolerate periods drought with little water.

Geraniums, or pelargoniums, are hardy in USDA zones 9-12 in climates of between 20ºF to 50ºF and can survive to zone 7 to temperatures of -12ºF (0ºC) if protected. While they can survive light frosts (temperatures just below freezing), they will die if exposed to prolonged temperatures below freezing so need to be protected in these conditions.

‘The Pelargonium group is very diverse and has many growing forms all of which are classed as tender perennials. This means that they are not frost hardy as the majority of the originating species come from the warmer climbs of the Southern Hemisphere,’ says David Taylor, Vice Chairman of the UK Pelargonium and Geranium Society.

‘Being perennial means that they can continue to grow for a number of years but in the UK this would mean that they would need to be protected from, not only frost, but also winter wet and damp.’

(Image credit: Getty Images / Jackie Parker Photography)

You can treat geraniums like annuals, digging up the plants in fall and composting them and replacing them with new plants the following year. However, given the right care and treatment, you can winterize geraniums, keeping them alive over winter ready to flourish again the following year.

‘Keen enthusiasts keep their pelargoniums in growth during the winter and continue to feed and water but a few key points can be undertaken by anyone to keep your pelargoniums (geraniums) alive throughout the winter,’ explains David Taylor, Vice Chairman of the UK Pelargonium and Geranium Society .

Geraniums are the common name for pelargoniums and should not be confused with hardy geraniums or cranesbill which are a different type of plant and do not require overwintering.

How to overwinter geraniums

There are different ways to overwinter geraniums. Potted and kept in the right conditions, the plants can be kept either growing or in a semi-dormant state over the winter, however they can also be overwintered in a dormant state and stored in bare-root form. Below we outline the two separate methods with help from the experts. Another alternative is to take cuttings from your geraniums to create new plants for the following year.

(Image credit: Getty Imahges / yonka60 )

How to overwinter geraniums in pots

Often geraniums are grown in containers, and this is a great way to grow them if you are looking to overwinter them.

Move pots under cover

If your geraniums are already in pots, in fall, before the frost arrives, these pots can simply be moved under cover into a light, airy and frost-free place such as a greenhouse or conservatory.

‘The best place would be a greenhouse and the ideal environment would be to have a heater in place to maintain temperatures above freezing when frost does threaten,’ says David Taylor, Vice Chairman of the UK Pelargonium and Geranium Society. (PAGS).

If your geraniums have been grown in a border, you can dig these up, repot them and bring these pots undercover, too.

Cut plants back

Whether they are already potted or have been taken from the border and repotted, it is best to cut geraniums back before bringing them inside, as David Taylor of PAGS explains.

‘Firstly you should cut your plants back by about two thirds; if lifting from outdoor beds they may need to be cut down by three quarters or even more and only do this cutting when the roots are dry otherwise the remaining stems will die back.’

‘Also, remove any dead, damaged, and unhealthy areas you see. Make sure they are free from bugs, and then bring them in for the winter,’ adds Emily Fernandes, a small space gardener from California and a consultant at HouseGrail .

Reduce watering

Whilst under cover the geraniums are best kept in a semi-dormant state and so will not require feeding and will need less watering. ‘Put them in an area that gets partial sun and water them every 2-3 weeks, keeping them at around 50% humidity. Like most other plants, they go dormant through the winter to preserve their energy for the growing season,’ adds Emily Fernandes, consultant at HouseGrail .

(Image credit: James Allan - Alamy Stock Photo)

Can I overwinter geraniums in an unheated greenhouse?

Whilst a heated greenhouse is preferable, ideally set to a minimum of 46ºF (8ºC), you can overwinter potted geraniums in an unheated greenhouse, if doing this, ‘keep it well insulated with bubble wrap or the like and cover plants with fleece when very cold weather threatens,’ advises David Taylor of thepags.org .

If you don’t have a greenhouse that geraniums can be kept in a conservatory, ‘but the preference would be one that is unheated as if it is too warm you may get a lot of lanky growth due to the low light levels in the winter,’ adds David.

If you do not have a greenhouse or conservatory smaller pots can be bought inside the house and placed on a sunny windowsill.

If you have potted geraniums too large to be brought inside you can consider leaving them outside says David Taylor.

'If you have really large potted pelargoniums outside and have a south facing wall you can chance putting the pots up against this for the winter. However, in this case, you should not cut the plants back as the growth will offer some protection to the roots during periods of very cold weather,' he explains. 'Should we have a very cold winter it is unlikely that plants in this position would survive.'

(Image credit: Future)

How to overwinterize geraniums in bare-root form

Geraniums can also be overwintered in bare-root form (with no soil around the roots) and stored in a dormant state ready for repotting in spring. This method will take up less space in comparison to overwintering geraniums in pots and is the best way to store large numbers of geraniums. This method does not require a greenhouse, they can be stored in a shed or garage.

Dig them up If using this method, before fall, dig them up and shake off all the soil from the roots and let them dry out for a couple of days.

Cut back At this stage cut back the stems to around 4 inches (10cm), trim the roots to about 5cm and remove any leaves.

Store The nest step is to ‘place them in a cool dry area in paper bags or cardboard boxes. We cover our plants with seasoned sawdust,’ explains is to Tammy Sons, CEO at Tn Nursery near Nashville Tennessee. You can also wrap them in newspaper or cover them with potting compost.

Pot up In early spring the bare-root plants that show signs of growth can then be potted up, but it’s recommended to soak the root for a few hours before doing so.

Cut back Once potted up, the plant should be cut back. ‘It’s necessary to cut back your geranium plants when you unpack them in the spring,’ advises Bryan Mackenzie, landscape designer and co-founder of bumpercroptimes. com . ‘You have to cut all the stems back to healthy-looking green growth. It’s also a good idea to trim off all the roots that are significantly longer than the others,’ he adds. This is different to deadheading geraniums in summer to promote more blooms.

Harden off The pots can then be placed in a sunny, frost-free spot to kick start growth and gradually hardened off after the risk of frost has passed before being finally brought outside into the garden ready for its summer display.

(Image credit: Clare Gainey - Alamy Stock)

When should you overwinter geraniums

Geraniums are tender perennials so will need protection from hard frosts by being brought under cover, it is important that this is done in fall before the winter frosts set in.

What is the best way to overwinter geraniums?

The best way to overwinter geraniums will depend on how many plants you want to overwinter and the overwintering space you have available. Generally it is easiest to keep them in pots and to move them into a light, airy and fros- free space such as a greenhouse or conservatory. However, if you want to overwinter lots of geraniums it may be better to store them in bar- root form within paper bags and kept in a cool, dry place.

Pippa is Content Editor on Homes & Gardens online contributing to Period Living and Country Homes & Interiors print issues. A graduate of Art History and formerly Style Editor at Period Living, she is passionate about architecture, creating decorating content, interior styling and writing about craft and historic homes. She enjoys searching out beautiful images and the latest trends to share with the Homes & Gardens audience. A keen gardener, when she’s not writing you’ll find her growing flowers on her village allotment for styling projects.

Wintering of blooming pelargoniums growing in open ground

Pelargoniums ( Pelargonium ), known to many as indoor geraniums, are often grown not only at home, but also outside: in flower beds, near the entrance to the house, on balconies etc. "Street" pelargonium is planted in open ground or in hanging baskets, balcony boxes and flowerpots. Autumn is one of the most crucial periods in the life of pelargoniums. Flowering bushes, which have had time to get used to bad weather and its whims, suffer greatly during the autumn frosts.

In autumn, especially during the pre-winter period, a sharp cold snap is possible, therefore it is not worth the risk of leaving pelargoniums in the open. They endure a decrease in air temperature, but only up to a certain limit. It is dangerous to test these plants with night frosts and freezing to zero degrees. Pelargonium can freeze, which is fraught with irreversible consequences.

Problems associated with the wintering of pelargoniums also arise in apartments. How to combine low light levels, high air temperature and lack of space on the windowsill? Isn't it easier to send pelargoniums for the winter, conserving the plants for a while and laying the foundation for future flowering.

One of the most popular is Pelargonium zonale ( Pelargonium zonale ). This is a flowering plant, the rounded leaves of which have a contrasting or slightly pronounced concentric ring. Pelargonium zonal is valued for its unpretentiousness, decorativeness and splendor of flowering.

No less attractive is pelargonium thyroid , which is also known under a different name - pelargonium ivy ( Pelargonium peltatum ). It is often planted in hanging baskets, flowerpots or flower beds. A suitable place is various raised structures, including retaining walls. Ivy pelargonium leaves vaguely resemble ivy leaves. Loose inflorescences of simple or double flowers are held on long peduncles.

There are other types of pelargonium, but it is zonal pelargonium and ivy-leaved pelargonium that are more often used in "street" gardening. Many amateur flower growers have valuable or simply favorite varieties of these types of pelargonium. And not everyone has a desire to germinate seeds every year and mess with seedlings. The opinion that pelargoniums grown from seeds bloom more abundantly is doubtful. Therefore, I so want to save the mother plants and root the cuttings cut from the bushes you like.

Pelargonium pruning

All pelargoniums are pruned sooner or later. I know some lovers of this plant who would never agree to "shred" their overgrown bushes in the fall. Even when they have lost all decorativeness and are tied to numerous supports so as not to collapse and break. But what about those flower growers who are unrealistic to fit heavy boxes or pots with flowering pelargoniums in a house or other enclosed space?

Summer and early autumn is a time of lush growth and flowering, when compact bushes turn into lush voluminous bushes. In order for them to bloom profusely again next year and become decorative, more or less strong pruning is necessary. When and “how much” to cut depends on many factors. This is the state of a particular pelargonium, the shape of the bush, the expected conditions of keeping in winter and summer, etc.

Wintering places for pelargoniums

Glazed loggia or insulated balcony. Most of my pelargoniums overwinter on a glazed loggia, where the air temperature on frosty winter nights does not fall below +12°C. Under these near-ideal conditions, some plants continue to bloom (not as luxuriantly as in summer) through most of the winter. I put some pots with bushes in hanging baskets and flowerpots, others I put on tables and a ladder-stand for plants. This option allows you to get by with corrective pruning in the fall and more radical pruning in late February - early March.

Watering is moderate. No top dressings. With this content, pelargoniums bloom for a long time, and by spring they themselves go into "standby mode". The buds almost do not open, allowing the plant to rest and accumulate strength. Part of the leaves periodically dries up.

Window sill. There are no problems with growing pelargoniums on the windowsill. The main thing is to find a place for them. Pots or boxes are placed on foam sheets or packing troughs so as not to chill the root system. The danger is represented by open windows and transoms on frosty days. It's bad if the battery is nearby. Autumn pruning when grown on a windowsill is gentle, as pelargoniums do not hibernate and continue to bloom. But a strong spring pruning is necessary. Care comes down to fairly rare watering, cleaning of dried leaves and peduncles and pest control.

Basement (cellar). I consider the frost-free and dry basement of our house to be an excellent place for overwintering plants. I keep some of the containers with pelargoniums there. Autumn pruning is moderate or rather bold (the height of the remaining part is about 20 cm). Natural light in the basement is provided by a small window near the ceiling. The air temperature in winter is about +7°С. Most of the leaves of pelargonium dry out during the winter. It is better to cut the bare ends of the stems in spring, they can be put on cuttings.

Frost-proof garage and stairwell. Many of my acquaintances amateur flower growers store flowerpots, boxes and large pots with pelargoniums in winter in frost-free garages and stairwells. Before this, the plants are heavily pruned, leaving parts 15–20 cm high. Large branches are shortened, but not removed. It is watered several times during the winter, very sparingly, only so that the earth with roots does not dry out.

Refrigerator. When storing pelargoniums in the refrigerator (on the top shelf, shelves on the door, in vegetable boxes), the bushes must first be worked on. In dry weather at the end of September or in October (depending on the weather and life circumstances), pelargoniums are removed from the ground along with the root system. After that, most of the roots are carefully cut off, leaving a root ball with the ground (about 8 - 10 cm). This lump does not need to be moistened, it is better if it is dry enough. It is wrapped in a film so that the earth does not spill out. Pelargonium is cut off, leaving a stump of such a size from the ground part that two plants fit in a liter bag of juice or milk. The package is wrapped in a newspaper folded into several parts. From time to time, the condition of stored pelargoniums is checked. See if the paper is wet. In February, pelargoniums are taken out, planted in containers and begin to germinate.

Upside down. There are many other ways to save geraniums brought from the garden into the house. Among them, attention is drawn to hanging a bush “upside down”, when a lump of shortened roots with earth or peat is packed in a plastic bag, tied tightly and hung from a hook or shelf in a cool place (for example, in the basement). The ground part is also greatly shortened. Connoisseurs consider this unusual wintering option for pelargoniums to be very effective and guarantee lush flowering next year.

Rules for wintering pelargonium on the windowsill and basement

Most flower growers stubbornly call pelargonium geranium, although pelargonium and geranium are different plants. But since for most the name "geranium" is more familiar, in the article we will use it on a par with "pelargonium".

When should Pelargonium be brought indoors?

To begin with, let us recall that indoor geraniums are divided into several independent types: zonal pelargonium, ivy-leaved (ampelous), Angels pelargoniums, royal and fragrant.

The situation is easiest with the wintering of fragrant pelargonium and traditional zonal pelargonium (“kalachiki”). With constant cultivation in an apartment, old "grandmother's" varieties require a minimum amount of attention, but with a sharp change in conditions, even they can react negatively, not to mention modern hybrids.

As you know, the older the plant, the harder it tolerates changes in environmental conditions, so many flower growers prefer not to mess with overexposure of mother liquors, but decide to renew flowers from cuttings every year so that small young plants leave for wintering.

To do this, it is necessary to cut cuttings from pelargoniums without waiting for autumn - in mid-late August, and initially grow young growth as indoor flowers. Then the onset of winter will not cause much stress in the geraniums.

But not every flower lover raises his hand to throw away a chic voluminous bush. In addition, it is noticed that in the second year the plants give a particularly lush flowering. Moreover, in modern dwarf and mini-cultivars, bushes develop very slowly and this method is unacceptable for them.

Pelargoniums are able to tolerate a slight temperature drop for a short time. But if you are determined to move the geraniums to an apartment for the winter, then it is better not to bring them to significant cold weather. The later the plants get into the room, the longer the period of adaptation to the changed conditions will last.

For the most painless adaptation, it is better to plan the move (on average) at the end of August-beginning of September. It is also possible to determine that the outdoor temperature is no longer comfortable for plants by signs such as significant reddening or yellowing of foliage and peduncles.

Read more about the types and varieties of pelargoniums in the material Pelargonium is the most enduring of the flowering plants.

How to help Pelargonium adapt on the windowsill?

When placing geraniums on the windowsill, make sure that the leaves are turned to the light on the same side from which they were most illuminated on the street. To remove fungal spores and pest eggs that may remain on the flower, it is recommended to thoroughly wash the stems and leaves with Green Soap.

It is also possible to help plants to endure adaptation using treatment with anti-stress preparations (Epin, Zircon, Stimulus, HB-101, succinic acid).

Even if the pots in which they lived outside have become too small for flowers, it is better to postpone transplanting until the end of winter so as not to create additional stress factors.

Should Pelargoniums be pruned?

The need for autumn pruning of geraniums before wintering is a debatable issue. As a result of pruning, any plant inevitably loses its strength, but if the overgrown bushes literally do not fit on the windowsill or shelving, then the grower has no choice.

It is a well-known fact that pruning stimulates the awakening of sleeping buds, so if there is a need to trim a geranium, it is best to do this a couple of weeks before its planned move. In this case, in the presence of warm and sunny weather, pelargonium will grow healthy, abundant shoots. But if you transfer this procedure to autumn, then indoors with a lack of light, the young growth will be elongated and weak. This rule does not apply to the removal of flower stalks, which must be cut off so that the plant does not waste energy on flowering.

In the case when you send geranium grown in a flower bed for wintering, you need to do this without waiting for night temperatures to fall to +12 . .. +15 degrees. This is due to the fact that in autumn it often rains regularly, and the presence of plants in wet soil can lead to rotting of the roots. The root system of pelargoniums is small, and even in powerful bushes growing in open ground, it does not grow too much.

It is better to choose a pot for wintering such pelargoniums no more than 15 centimeters in diameter. After transplanting, the flowers will take time - from two weeks to a month - to get used to the pots and new conditions, and prepare for a dormant period. During this period, it is better not to disturb the plants with pruning and top dressing, keep them in the shade in the open air. For some time, the leaves will inevitably turn yellow and fall off, and as soon as the dormant buds begin to wake up, you can bring them into the house to the south window.

Note: even in the best scenario, when living conditions change, part of the geranium leaves will turn yellow and fall off. It is better not to interfere with this natural process “in the name of beauty”, and do not remove the leaf that begins to turn yellow, but wait until the leaf blade dries out completely.

Basic rules for wintering pelargonium

In order for pelargoniums to overwinter safely, it is necessary to help them determine their course of action for the coming months. Zonal Pelargonium are not winter sleepers, but these plants behave differently depending on external conditions. Therefore, wintering can become a period of complete rest for pelargoniums or a time when they will gradually continue the growing season.

The signal for this or that behavioral strategy for plants is the average temperature level and the degree of illumination. But in the conditions of a city apartment in winter, both factors, as a rule, are in an imbalance, because in nature, with the onset of cold weather, daylight hours usually decrease, and vice versa. But on the windowsills during this period it is usually excessively warm, but there is not enough sunlight for full growth.

Therefore, in order for pelargonium to rest a little in winter, the temperature in the room must be maintained at +10 ... +15 degrees. At the same time, when airing, make sure that the plants are away from cold drafts.

And if you provide flowers with illumination for 12 hours a day, the temperature can be even higher than 20 degrees. Indoor geranium does not belong to plants of a short or long day, therefore, under such conditions, it can even please with flowering. Bushes grow moderately and do not stretch. For further propagation, the first cuttings can be removed in early January. As a rule, cuttings work best at this time.

Features of wintering of Pelargonium "Angel"

If most varieties of zonal Pelargonium can somehow survive the winter on the windowsill without creating special conditions, then for Pelargonium "Angel" this is hardly possible. For this species, proper wintering not only ensures the laying of buds for the subsequent flowering of bushes, but is also a guarantee of plant survival during this difficult period.

It is very important not to be late with the beginning of the dormant period of the "Angels", because the later it starts, the further the flowering period will move. On average, the winter sleep of these flowers should last from October to February. At this time, the temperature regime is maintained in the range not lower than +9and not higher than +15 degrees. It is also desirable to use the backlight at the rate of 14-hour daylight hours.

But, as practice shows, low temperature prevents stretching, and if the temperature regime is observed, plants have enough natural light on bright windows.

The subtleties of wintering royal pelargoniums

For royal pelargoniums, the winter temperature should be even lower - from +8 to +10 degrees. At such a reduced temperature, watering should be extremely careful - rare and very moderate (depending on the size of the pot, it is 50-100 ml, once every 3 weeks). Otherwise, wintering flowers may be affected by fungal diseases.

The insidiousness of such a defeat lies in the fact that the signs of the disease do not appear immediately. And when the symptoms become visible, the disease is already in its heyday and can even lead to the death of plants. Therefore, it is very important to inspect the leaves and stems for plaque or discoloration.

It is also recommended to carry out preventive treatments with antifungal drugs before wintering the royal geraniums. This should be done a few days before their move, so that the treated plants have time to dry well and do not fall under the draft and exposure to cool temperatures.

It is also useful to pinch the bush a little before retiring, but radical pruning can be fatal. The first feeding is carried out in late February-early March, by this time the bushes are building up side shoots, which soon begin to bloom. The optimal daylight hours for royal geraniums should be 14 hours, so it is advisable to organize a backlight for these flowers.

With good lighting and suitable temperatures, Pelargonium can bloom in winter.

Features of wintering Pelargonium ivy

In contrast to the zonal pelargonium, ivy geranium is most often pruned before its placement in a winter apartment. According to experienced flower growers, for standard varieties after pruning, the length of the lashes should be 10-15 cm, and for dwarf ones - a little less - 5-10 cm. All dry and diseased parts of the plant are removed at the same time.

From November to February, it is desirable to provide flowers with a temperature not higher than 18 degrees and very rare watering. Some varieties winter well on southern window sills in ordinary city apartments at a higher temperature, but during this time they weaken and stretch a lot.

Watering and feeding Pelargonium in winter

Of course, Pelargonium is far from cacti, but due to the ability to accumulate moisture in a thickened stem, this flower belongs to semi-succulent. It follows from this that pelargonium is much more terrible to transfuse, and high humidity at low temperatures is especially critical.

When you see that the geranium is ready to rest (it stops blooming, old leaves turn yellow more often, and young foliage practically does not develop), watering should be reduced. When watering, do not moisten the soil too much (no more than 100 ml per medium pot). Such maintenance watering is carried out approximately once every two weeks. Young bushes are watered a little more often.

Water along the edge of the container, away from the root collar. It is better to water pelargoniums in the morning, no later than 11 o'clock.

If your flowers overwinter with illumination at a high temperature, then watering is carried out as usual - plentifully, but only after the surface of the soil dries out by 2-2.5 centimeters. Next time, water only when the substrate is almost completely dry.

Because Pelargonium has slightly hairy foliage, foliar feeding is not recommended for this plant at any time of the year. And you can feed the bushes in the winter only if they get enough light and bloom profusely.

In the rest mode, top dressing is completely stopped and resumed only from the end of January, when active vegetation begins. To do this, it is better to use a ready-made complex fertilizer for flowering plants.

Possible problems when wintering geraniums indoors

Even after successful adaptation to the conditions of the apartment, yellowing and drying of the leaves may be observed in geraniums. There can be many reasons for this. In particular, leaf fall provokes a lack of light, dry air, or excessive or insufficient watering.

In winter, pelargoniums are usually weakened and can be easily attacked by pests. Most of all indoor geraniums are annoyed by whiteflies, spider mites and mealybugs. Of the most common diseases of pelargonium, fungal diseases should be noted. Most often, pelargoniums are affected by the black leg. The disease is easily identified by the characteristic decay of the stem near the root collar.

If this happens, then the treatment usually does not work, and the only way to save the variety is to establish healthy tops. Moreover, the cuttings must be cut, retreating as high as possible from the affected area.

In case of botrys disease, geraniums are covered with characteristic fluffy gray spots similar to mold. If the fungus has struck the root system, then this is manifested by yellowing of part of the leaf blades. In the future, the yellow areas turn brown or blacken, and the bush is covered with a cobweb-like coating. In most cases, timely treatment with antifungal drugs gives a positive result.

Alternative overwintering of pelargonium

The physiology of pelargonium allows plants to hibernate for several months, which makes it possible, if there is not enough space on the windowsill, to organize wintering for flowers in the basement or vegetable section of the refrigerator.

At a temperature of +4 degrees, which is maintained in a refrigerator, a cold basement or a glazed balcony, pelargonium can be without light. Therefore, these places are quite suitable for organizing alternative wintering.

In preparation for the dormant period, all plants undergo radical pruning to the state of stumps (3-4 buds), and in species of plants with a large root system, the roots are also partially pruned. In the final state, the root group of geraniums should not exceed the size of an apple of medium size.

Then the prepared specimens are kept in this state (without bowls) for several days so that the soil dries. After that, the whole plant “with its head” is wrapped in several layers of newspaper and, in this form, is placed in a Tetra Pak-type juice or milk package. For greater tightness, the package is wrapped with cling film on top.

It is advisable to check overwintering plants about once a week and, if necessary, replace newspapers with new ones if they become excessively wet. In the case when wintering is successful, after planting in the ground, the plants quickly start to grow and gain green mass before our eyes.