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Best way to texture a ceiling


How to Texture a Ceiling with 4 Techniques

Photo: Zillow Digs home in Sterling, VA

It all too easy to slap a coat of white paint on your ceiling and consider it done. But to really pull a room together, it ought to be stylishly topped off—and putting a textured effect on the ceiling is a great way to add impact to your décor. Another plus? Textured ceilings perfectly camouflage imperfections like cracks or evidence of water damage.

There are a variety of techniques you can employ to create your texture of choice (way beyond the “popcorn” look popular in the 1970s). All it takes is a mixture of paint and drywall mud—and a little ingenuity. Ahead, a simple step-by-step guide for how to texture your ceiling, your way, without sending your budget through the roof.

Tools & Materials

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STEP 1: Cover up anything you don’t want drywall mud to splatter or drip on.

Since you’ll be working against gravity, you’ll want to protect your furniture, floors, and fixtures from splatters. Empty the room as much as possible, which will also give you space to move around. Cover remaining pieces of furniture and the entire floor with drop cloths. Next, take off any faceplates, vent covers, ceiling fans, and/or light fixtures. Finally, apply painter’s tape around the edges of the ceiling, right where it meets the wall, being careful to keep it stick-straight all the way across.

STEP 2: Prime before you texture the ceiling.

You might think that because textured paint is part drywall mud it will adhere to any surface, but for a quality job, you still want to prime first. This step will make application easier and give lasting results.

Choose a paint primer close to the color you’ll be using to texture your ceiling—a dark primer for dark paint and a light primer for light paint. Cover the entire surface in a thin, consistent layer and let dry fully (consult the can’s drying time guidelines) before moving on.

STEP 3: Start with pre-mixed textured paint, or combine paint with drywall mud.

Prep your product. If you’re looking for a subtle texture, you’ll get good results with pre-mixed textured paint. But if you’re aiming for more depth or special effects, mix your own by combining paint with drywall mud. The standard rule of thumb is one part drywall mud to 10 parts paint. Pour paint into a bucket, add drywall mud, and blend, aiming for the consistency of pancake or biscuit batter. Depending on the look you’re going for, you might want a somewhat thicker consistency. Do a small batch first to practice getting it just right.

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STEP 4: Apply texture to the ceiling with one of four techniques.

It’s always wise to start in the least noticeable part of the ceiling when applying the texture—perhaps the darkest corner of the room, or the edge of the ceiling closest to the door. Position your ladder there and make sure you can work from a reasonable angle without arching backward. The exact technique (and subsequent tools you’ll need) depends on your desired effect.

Whichever technique you choose, the end result will lend extra punch to your space’s style. The array of colors and effects is endless, so have fun and aim for a look that captures the personality of the room and those who live in it.

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How to texture a ceiling |

While the past few years has seen a shift away from textured ceilings, there’s no denying the many benefits this unique finish can provide. Whether it’s acoustic improvements, disguising imperfections or simply adding interest to an otherwise forgotten surface, texture has been creeping out of obscurity and well and truly into the interiors spotlight.

Of course, it may be the case that you are repairing rather than removing a popcorn ceiling, or matching up an existing textured ceiling to a plain section of drywall or plaster. Whatever the situation, remember that learning how to texture a ceiling is very different from simply painting one, so a certain amount of time and patience is required in order to complete the project effectively.

Below, we offer expert advice about the best way to tackle the task.

How to texture a ceiling by hand

Though not the most fashionable of ceiling ideas, texturing a ceiling does have its place in interior decor, particularly in rentals. Nicholas Smacchia from Westchester-based company, Plastering By Nicholas , recommends starting with an application of easy sand compound directly onto plaster.

1. Use a sponge or trowel to create a texture in ceiling plaster

‘While the compound is still wet and soft, take your trowel, or slightly wet sea wool sponge and press it flat into the plaster and pull the sponge or trowel away making the compound into a stipple like texture,’ says Nicholas Smacchia.

2. Spray then knock down the texture

‘As the texture starts to set, spray it with a little water and lightly pass the trowel over the stipple to knock it down’, he continues.

As you go, keep spraying ‘water over the stipples to lubricate the compound’ so it does not stick to the trowel and lessen the amount of texture.

Finally, Nicholas suggests brushing with a wet chip brush ‘to soften the texture’ and give it a slightly aged appearance.

This method can be used to produce an orange peel effect too. Be sure to use a softer sponge to create a more dimpled-like texture.

3. Use a wet chip brush to soften the texture

However, in order to master the skip trowel effect, Nicholas suggests using a trowel and applying the easy sand compound ‘in strokes laying one stroke partially over the last in a radius pattern.’

‘When this starts to set, use the wet chip brush and sprayer to soften the texture,’ he concludes.

How to spray texture a ceiling

You can, of course, hand-spray the ceiling using an air compressor and hopper gun to achieve the desired textured effect. You’ll need patience and persistence to master this method.

To start, hold the gun about 2ft away from your surface and squeeze the trigger, all the while keeping the gun moving. Work in sections across your ceiling.

If you decide you need to redo, simply scrape it off immediately and place it back in the hopper.

You can also buy spray cans, filled with ready-made product, which work well for small patches and are much easier to manage.

How to apply mixed paint to create a textured effect

Instead of creating the texture on plaster, you can mix a powdered joint compound into regular paint. Since you will be applying the mixed product directly onto the ceiling be sure to apply in a sideways strokes to help achieve the best results. And ensure you are using a long pile roller – it will help the paint get into the low points of the texture and provide a better overall finish.

How to apply textured ceiling paint

The easiest way to create a textured ceiling is with a dedicated product that already contains an additive. The grain in textured paint creates small shadows and depressions, helping you to achieve the desired texture. 

Applying these products with a foam roller for maximum texture or a fiber roller for a finer texture will give the best finish. Ensure you load a thick even coat to the surface using short criss-cross strokes, until you have covered about 3sq ft. Finally, finish by rolling lightly in one direction.

What tools will you need to create a textured ceiling?

Before you start, remember that texturing a ceiling will involve wet texture material flying in all directions so you’ll need to cover the floors and surfaces with cloths and protective sheeting.

The traditional method will require: 

If you’re looking to make the project as easy as possible, you can mix your own textured paint or, better still, purchase ready-mixed versions that can be applied directly to your ceiling using a roller.

What is a textured ceiling?

A textured ceiling is normally achieved by using a sand compound and spreading in a specific pattern to create a bumpy, uneven finish.

The most popular finishes include a knock-down stipple effect (similar to a popcorn ceiling), an orange peel look or a skip trowel finish. 

Knock-down stipple has a rough, bumpy texture and can be created with as much depth as you’d like. Orange peel has a more subtle bumpy look, while skip trowel is applied in large strokes, creating a Mediterranean feel.

How to make a stucco ceiling? (14 photos)

When designing the interior of a room, it is very important to show special interest in the process of decorating the ceiling. Of course, the simplest design and the usual smooth surface of the flow coating is a universal option and will not harm the interior style, but it is not able to decorate the room. Therefore, more and more often designers began to use elements of decorative stucco molding in their works. Stucco ceilings create originality and uniqueness of the interior. And the combination of traditional methods with innovative technologies allows even stretch and suspended ceilings to be decorated with stucco.

Stucco decor as a way to decorate ceilings

Stucco molding refers to the oldest method of decorating ceilings with ornate ornaments.

Historians and archaeologists claim that stucco decoration originated in Ancient Egypt far before our era.

Those fragments of decorative stucco molding of the palace and temple decoration of Ancient Egypt, which we have become aware of, are related to the period of the reign of the pharaohs. It was thanks to the builders and architects of Egypt that the beginning of the art of creating stucco decoration was laid. The technique of decorative stucco reached its true flourishing in the era of Antiquity. The basics, directions, manufacturing process were formed already in ancient Greece and in ancient Rome. Even the term “gypsum” for the material from which real stucco is made came to us from Greece, where it was called “gypsos”, which means “boiling stone” in ancient Greek.

Article content:


Decorative stucco molding for the ceiling appeared in Russia about three hundred years ago, but even today it serves as the best way to create a special interior. Stucco molding on the ceiling evokes associations of a time far from us, the era of aristocracy, where sophistication, luxury and grace flourished. Transforming the interior of the room, the ceiling stucco molding serves as a style-forming element. With its help, you can reflect the direction of classicism, the style of modernity, renaissance or baroque.


Without exaggeration, we can say that the Baroque style stands out from all the existing styles with its luxury and even pomposity. The decoration of the ceiling with stucco in this style involves an abundance of stucco elements. The true luxury of the Baroque is emphasized by the simultaneous use of friezes and rosettes, moldings and cornices, and in rooms where the ceilings are high, a paduga would also be appropriate. The addition will be the use of color variations. For example, the surface of the ceiling can be painted with color, and the stucco decoration elements are marked with gilding.

Renaissance stucco ceiling looks more elegant and sophisticated. Here there is stucco more with floral ornaments. In addition, this style is characterized by ceiling painting with masterpieces of paintings by artists of that time, framed by relief moldings.

If you are at a loss how to make stucco on the ceiling, it is better to use the services of a designer. Practice shows that it is very important not to overdo it with the use of stucco decoration on the ceiling. To do this, you need to have an idea about the proportions and rules for combining elements, and also have a taste and sense of style.

Types of materials for stucco molding

Modern decoration involves the use of three types of materials with which the stucco elements used to decorate ceilings are made, these are:

Plaster moldings

Traditionally, gypsum is used as a material for creating decorative moldings. Gypsum ceiling stucco can not only provide new colors to the interior, but also give originality, sophistication and novelty, and thanks to the play of light, you can create bizarre overflows and mysterious ornaments on the ceiling in the room.


Of course, gypsum stucco for ceilings is a decor classic, and it is not for nothing that designers prefer to use gypsum decor for ceilings in their works of authorship. In addition, it has other positive qualities:

However, there are some disadvantages of plaster ceiling moldings:

It is worth considering that it is better to entrust the manufacture and installation of gypsum moldings to experienced professionals.

Gypsum stucco decoration techniques

Modern decoration of classically snow-white stucco elements on the ceiling in the interior is carried out using special decoration techniques:

Polyurethane molding

Another type of stucco molding on the ceiling in the apartment is a decor made of polyurethane. In comparison with other material options, polyurethane stucco molding is considered the undisputed leader. The structure of polyurethane is similar to gypsum, just as gypsum allows you to detail the pattern. Due to its strength and durability, it can last for many years without changing its original color and without crumbling. Due to its practicality, this type of stucco has become very popular.

High-quality polyurethane stucco molding is not inferior to classical gypsum either visually or technically.

This is an easier and faster way to decorate the interior of the ceiling. You get ready-made stucco elements made of polyurethane. The main advantages are as follows:

Disadvantages include:

A wide range of polyurethane stucco decorations will make your ceiling look stylish and sophisticated, just like the plaster version.

Styrofoam moldings

Styrofoam is a regular foam with a smaller foam structure. Everyone is familiar with foam tiles for ceilings and skirting boards. Polystyrene stucco has a minimum weight, so it can easily decorate any ceilings, even modern stretch ones.

Advantages of polystyrene:

Weaknesses:

The installation of polystyrene moldings can be easily carried out on your own using a special adhesive.

Ceiling moldings

  1. Caissons - square, rectangular or polygonal recesses in the ceiling in the form of a niche. Give the ceiling dimension. A lighting fixture can be installed in the center.

2. Rosettes are the main element of the ceiling moulding. Basically, they have a round shape, functionally emphasize the chandelier and give the room a classic look. Modern interior design does not always involve placing a socket with a chandelier, it can also be used as an independent accent that guarantees a luxurious look to the room.


Ceiling sockets are divided into two groups:

Concerning the relief of the socket, they distinguish:

According to the method of production and installation, sockets are:

Depending on the size and shape of the socket, there are:

3. Moldings are decorative strips with a smooth texture or decorated with an ornament, which act as cornices that create a finished look of the upper part of the walls. They are attached to the wall or ceiling. They can also be used to create hidden lighting for the ceiling.

4. Cornices - are horizontal strips that are fixed at the junction of the wall and ceiling. Additionally, they can hide irregularities that occur during construction or repair work.

5. Corner elements - complement the cornices and mouldings.

6. Consoles - this element on the ceiling is used in conjunction with the cornice to divide the ceiling space, as well as to visually support the ceiling cornices.

7. Domes is a hemisphere that creates a concavity in the shape of a dome. Gives a sense of aspiration to height. Domes decorate suspended ceilings.

It is interesting that the ceiling or part of the ceiling decorated with stucco has certain names

The fact that the stucco on the ceiling has its own name is known to everyone, but not everyone has an idea about the name of the ceiling with stucco or part of the ceiling with stucco. If the central part of the ceiling around the chandelier is framed with a stucco relief, then this part of the ceiling is called a panel. A semicircular stucco garland is called a festoon. An ornament in the form of weaving strips of stucco is called braided. If the stucco pattern is convex and voluminous, then this is a bas-relief, and the smooth central part of the pattern is called a mirror. Peas are stucco balls, helika is a stucco curl. The wreath on the ceiling is weaving in a circle with flowers, leaves, bunches of grapes and the like. Openwork stucco involves elements of stucco cut through. In general, a ceiling decorated with stucco is called a ceiling.

Conclusion

Despite the variety of styles in interior design and the emergence of new ones, for example, eclecticism, hi-tech, classic interior design options will always be in fashion, moreover, those that have come to us from past centuries. Creating a classic style in the interior, designers, by right, use stucco molding to decorate the ceiling for the atmosphere of grace and aristocratic luxury that it can endow the room with.

Main content of article

1. Stucco molding belongs to the oldest way of decorating the ceiling.

2. Existing technologies involve the manufacture of stucco decoration elements from the following materials:

  • Gypsum is a traditional material for creating unique products with clear detailed patterns, environmentally friendly, durable. Disadvantages - a lot of weight and labor-intensive manufacturing process.
  • Polyurethane is a modern material, similar in characteristics to gypsum, while being light in weight and moisture resistant. Disadvantages - limited choice of standard stamped products, flammability.
  • Expanded polystyrene - ordinary foam, light in weight, easy to install, low price. Disadvantages - not durable, fragile, not a clear pattern, cheap look.

3. Gypsum molding decoration techniques add luxury and grace to the ceiling:

  • patination - artificial aging effect;
  • gilding - the most expensive option - gold leaf, the cheapest - acrylic paint;
  • texturing - creating a specific texture such as marble, wood, stone;
  • painting, toning and painting.

4. Ceiling molding options:

  • caissons - stucco recess in the ceiling, adds volume;
  • sockets - the main element of ceiling moldings, usually located in the center of the ceiling as a frame for a chandelier;
  • moldings and cornices - attached to the wall or ceiling, give a finished look, help hide defects and irregularities;
  • corner elements, consoles - complement the cornices;
  • domes - a hemisphere similar to a dome.

How to grout the seams in the ceiling tiles

Home / From plastic panels / Types of ceilings / How to close the gaps between the foam tiles on the ceiling?

Even with the most careful gluing of foam boards to the ceiling, small gaps or gaps may form between them. This is due to various factors: an uneven base, not the best quality tiles, or for other reasons. In any case, it will be necessary to process the cracks that the foam boards formed when glued to the ceiling.

Embedding options

In order to get rid of existing gaps, different materials can be used and the work order will change accordingly. The material itself, with which the gaps will be overwritten, is usually chosen from two options:

Almost no tools are required. Except for a damp sponge and my own fingers. You will also need to prepare a few clean rags in order to wipe your hands and treated seams.

Puttying

If putty is chosen as the filler for the cracks in the ceiling made of foam squares, it is better to take its finishing variety. It has a finer texture and is easier to apply than coarser mixtures.

Sold both ready-mixed and undiluted. The differences between them are minimal and the main criterion will be the price - a dry mix can be significantly cheaper. It is diluted with plain water and there is nothing complicated about it. The main thing is to observe the proportions in the solution indicated on the package.

Ready-made putties are easier - you just need to check their consistency. If the solution is liquid, it will be extremely difficult to apply it to the ceiling. In order for it to acquire the necessary consistency, it is enough to hold the package open for a while - the moisture evaporates quickly and the required density will be reached fairly quickly.

When the selected compound is ready to work, you can start sealing the gaps. As already mentioned, the best tool for performing such a simple operation is your own finger. A little composition is typed on the fingertip and the gap that needs to be repaired is evenly filled.

Even filling will be the most difficult part. It will take a little practice and everything will start to turn out the way it should. But, while the hand is not yet “stuffed”, the termination can be a little uneven. It is better to start with a not the most noticeable area of ​​\u200b\u200bcoverage.

After finishing a small section of the ceiling in this way, about five or six tiles, you can start finishing the joints to the ideal. To do this, you need to wipe the filled joints with a damp sponge. You do not need to be zealous with pressure - you can wash the applied layer of putty.

When the entire ceiling is processed, it remains to wait 10 - 12 hours until the grout is completely dry and after that, gently rinse the entire surface with water. The water should be changed frequently enough so that no chalk stains remain on the surface of the coating.

Sealant

Much easier with this material. It is only necessary to choose an acrylic sealant, which, after application, can be painted along with the glued coating tiles. Of course, it is necessary to choose the shade of sealant that will match the main tone of the ceiling, but usually it is white, so there will be no problems.

Before you putty the ceiling of foam squares in this way, you need to stock up on hand rags and a damp sponge, as in the previous finishing option. In addition, you will need a special gun into which a tube of sealant is inserted and which helps to squeeze it into the right place. The spout of the tube with gap filler must be cut to the size of the thinnest of the joints to be sealed.

The balloon nose is brought to the joint and the joint is slowly filled with material. It is not necessary to process a large area at once - a length of joints of one meter is enough. After that, the gun should be put aside and evenly smooth out the layer of applied material with a damp sponge.

The sealant cures fairly quickly, but it is still worth waiting a few hours for it to fully cure. So you can process not only the seams between the tiles, but also fill the gaps between the baseboard and the ceiling covering.

How to hide seams between ceiling panels | Home Guides

Although most ceilings are covered with drywall, this is not the only material that builders use; acoustic tiles and composite panels are the other two. In all cases, bridging the seams between panels is an essential part of the installation process, unless there must be seams, such as gaps between tiles. Drywall tape and joint compound can solve most joint problems, but sometimes a little more creativity is needed.

Tape and flush

Drywall tape and grout or dirt work best when the joints are tapered, which means they have a slight setback to the rest of the panel. You can fill these cones with mud to bring them up to the level of the rest of the ceiling, making the seams almost invisible. Tapered seams are typical when you install full sheets of drywall, but not when you cut sheets and butt them together, or when you install non-gypsum board flooring. Applying a ceiling texture helps hide these problem seams.

Texturing the ceiling

One of the reasons for texturing the ceiling is to visually reduce the room and make it more comfortable, the other is to hide visible seams. There are many application methods. Professionals often spray the texture or spread it out with a knife and then beat it down to smooth it out. One of the easiest ways to apply is to apply the joint sealant to the ceiling with a special brush. The not-so-fine texture that this technique gives is effective at hiding seams because it draws attention away from the lines the seams create.

Minimize and Stabilize Joints

You will have fewer joints to mask if you plan to install your ceiling covering to minimize them. If you are installing drywall, you can do so by using very long sheets covering the full width of the ceiling. When using standard 8-foot drywall sheets or panels, some builders intentionally connect them between the framing members. They screw the ends to thin wooden sheets to secure them and press them together. Joints joined in this way are easier to hide with tape and dirt, and because they are not attached to the frame, they are less likely to crack when the frame is moved.

Creative Seam Solutions

Some materials, such as acoustic panels or certain types of composite panels, do not respond well to drywall tape and dirt. They are often designed to butt to each other, but if the joint is not straight, the drywall behind the panels may be visible. You can avoid this by spraying the paint behind the seam, using paint that matches the color of the seams. Another solution is to make the seams a feature of the ceiling by battening them. If you decide to do this, it is important to install the panels in such a way that the seams form a pattern.

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How to remove ceiling tiles | House Manuals

Ceiling tiles add a finishing touch to an unattractive ceiling, while a tiled suspended ceiling can make it easier to heat and cool a room. Removing ceiling tiles is not difficult, but it is worth considering how to finish the surface after that. Also consider the age of the ceiling before taking on this job. Tiles installed prior to the mid-1980s may contain asbestos and require professional cleaning. If you're unsure of the age of the tiles, check the ceiling for asbestos before removing them.

Interlocking Ceiling Tile

Interlocking Ceiling Tile is usually square in shape and is mounted on or near the original ceiling. This type of tile is often used to hide an unattractive ceiling without a significant reduction in height, and in areas where there is no need to add ductwork space. Removing this type of tile is quite simple, requiring only a utility knife with a sharp blade, a flathead screwdriver, and a metal scraper such as a 5-in-1 paint tool. Some tiles are glued around the edges; some are stapled; some use a combination of adhesive and staples. The combined arrangement of tiles provides sealed seams and additional insulation in the room. To remove interlaced tiles, run the blade of a utility knife through the seams between the tiles to cut through the joined edges. Cutting one tile will not cause all tiles to fall because they are mounted individually. If the tiles are stapled together, they will come off easily. If glue was used, pry off the tile with a screwdriver or 5-in-1 painting tool. Glue and staples remaining on the ceiling are scraped off and removed in the same way.

Strip Weave Tiles

Some interlocking tiles are mounted on sheathing planks, which are narrow boards set in rows 12 inches apart across the ceiling. Tiles installed on sheathing strips are removed in the same way as tiles installed on a ceiling, but the strips must also be removed or covered with new ceiling material. To remove the planks of the crate, you must either pry the boards if they were nailed, or remove the screws. This will leave damage that needs to be repaired with drywall joint compound or stucco. Braid strips work well for drywall installation as they are typically 12 inches apart. The edges of the drywall sheets will align with the battens where you need them.

Tile for grid system

Suspended ceilings, also called grid or grid systems, are quite common in old houses with high ceilings. Suspension systems help to facilitate space heating due to the reduced surface profile and also hide new ducts. Removing tiles in a grid requires no tools. Lift the tile up to lift it off the grate, then tilt the tile at an angle and drop it down through the grate. Getting the right angle takes a little practice. If any tile has electrical blocks, such as ceiling lights, have an electrician remove them before removing the tile.

Suspended tile system

Suspended tiles rest on a metal grid attached to the walls and ceiling. If you plan to replace old tiles with new ones, you won't need a new grid. If you're removing the entire system, you'll need a screwdriver, pliers, and a regular hammer. Rails along the perimeter of the room hold the frame of the system. They are either nailed or screwed to the walls. The mesh part of the system is attached with loops and cables. Mesh removal is usually done by at least two people because the rails are long and will fall off when you unfasten them. Twist and remove the wires that secure the mesh to the hinges in the ceiling, which frees the mesh and allows it to fall. Turn the eyelets counterclockwise with pliers to remove them. Remove the railing around the perimeter of the room. Pry them off if they are nailed or use a screwdriver to remove the screws that hold them on.

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